Valve lash questions

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by dcdoug

2) When finding TDC for each cylinder, is there any problem with backing up the engine a bit if I go to far? Or is TDC not that sensitive? After pulling the plugs, and getting #1 on the compression stroke, my plan was to use a wooden dowel in the spark plug hole to determine TDC for each cylinder. If I feel the piston starting to go back down, can I back it up? Not sure this is even possible, but I have seen it suggested, although I have also read that you should never back the engine up. Thoughts? Suggestions?

You don't have to do all that. The simple, tried and true method that has been done since the Romans lashed their horses is as follows:

1. Rotate the engine until the exhaust rocker goes down to open the exhaust valve. Set the INTAKE lash to your setting.

2. Rotate the engine until the intake rocker comes up to close from its full lift position. Set the EXHAUST lash to your setting.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by patrickt

You don't have to do all that. The simple, tried and true method that has been done since the Romans lashed their horses is as follows:

1. Rotate the engine until the exhaust rocker goes down to open the exhaust valve. Set the INTAKE lash to your setting.

2. Rotate the engine until the intake rocker comes up to close from its full lift position. Set the EXHAUST lash to your setting.

If I do that, then I can set 1/2 the valves on the compression stroke for #1 and the rest on the compression stroke for #6, which is obviously a hell of a lot easier. My only issue is that Steve Christ recommends using TDC for each cylinder for higher lift cams, not sure exactly why. I am not quite sure my "B" cam qualifies for that, but wasn't sure.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by dcdoug

If I do that, then I can set 1/2 the valves on the compression stroke for #1 and the rest on the compression stroke for #6, which is obviously a hell of a lot easier. My only issue is that Steve Christ recommends using TDC for each cylinder for higher lift cams, not sure exactly why. I am not quite sure my "B" cam qualifies for that, but wasn't sure.

If you do it my way, you absolutely can't make a mistake and you'll be safely on the heel of the lobe. Trust me. Just pay attention that you don't mix up the exhaust and intake valves -- that's easier to do than you think if your mind starts to wander. Remember that the exhaust valves on the FE point to the ends. Meaning, they are EI EI IE IE when you look down at them.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by patrickt

If you do it my way, you absolutely can't make a mistake and you'll be safely on the heel of the lobe. Trust me. Just pay attention that you don't mix up the exhaust and intake valves -- that's easier to do than you think if your mind starts to wander. Remember that the exhaust valves on the FE point to the ends. Meaning, they are EI EI IE IE when you look down at them.

Alright makes sense. I am looking for the simplest method and this sounds like it. Any ideas on torque for those bolts? You thought 20-25 ft lb?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by dcdoug

Alright makes sense. I am looking for the simplest method and this sounds like it. Any ideas on torque for those bolts? You thought 20-25 ft lb?

I torque my Erson Roller Rockers to 20 ft/lbs. You have a different valve train entirely. If no one gives you a better answer then flip a coin, if it comes up heads torque them to 20 ft./lbs., if it comes up tails then torque them to 25.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by patrickt

You don't have to do all that. The simple, tried and true method that has been done since the Romans lashed their horses is as follows:

1. Rotate the engine until the exhaust rocker goes down to open the exhaust valve. Set the INTAKE lash to your setting.

2. Rotate the engine until the intake rocker comes up to close from its full lift position. Set the EXHAUST lash to your setting.

Yes, I remember the good old days when I had to adjust the solid lifters on my '66 427/425 HP Corvette.

Very nice succinct summary.