Comp Cams new oiled lifter, solid roller cam on the street ?

[FUNFER2]

I'm building a new side oiler and having seen several post's before, I still want to ask how the lifters will last on the street ?

Comp Cams has come out with a oiled lifter for mechanical cams. Does this solve the problem that many engine builders say the lifters won't take low idle and stop light to stop light, because the lack of oil.

Is this true, or do you mechanical roller owners believe in them and drive yours on the street without any problems ?

Quote from the site-

"All models feature EDM Oil Injection™ technology, which ensures that the roller bearing assembly receives a constant flow of pressurized oil. This virtually eliminates needle bearing oil starvation, historically a “problem area” for all solid roller lifters when used in low rpm and street applications."

Link-

http://www.compcams.com/storemenu/so...cialroller.asp

[Clois Harlan]

I have had a comp cams solid lifter cam in my 427 for 5 or 6 years now and I am still running the same cam, springs, lifters, roller rockers, and push rods. Once a year I adjust them and usually they don't need that. I do run a high volume oil pump.

Clois

[Hotfingrs]

I personally won't use anything with a Comp Cams name on it. After ruining 2 engines because of their lifters they can KMA. Their lifters lasted about 1000 miles. Nothing but Crower for me. I used one set for 5 summers, then I built a new engine and this will be the second summer on those lifters. Mostly street driven and 7700-8000 shifts.

[FUNFER2]

Hello Clois,
In the sprint car, we of course have a solid roller. We've never had a problem with the lifters idling and 8,300 rpm's, but that is racing, not on the street. All we've done is replace the springs every two years and normal maintenance.

I lash my solid flat tappet's in my 428 once per year and check them after some harder driving. Keith even said that the solid roller is the same way. I love the solid roller engines, but I'm a little,.... concerned about on the street.

Hotfingers- "KMS"...... lol !
We've run Comps in the sprint motor and in my 428 in my cobra, for many years with no issues. I'm curious why you've had problems ?

Crower products are high quality. Do you also have their crank & rods ?

[Hotfingrs]

Same problem, both motors, broke the roller off the lifter and several other lifters had the needle bearings gone. Second motor broke two lifters, both motors had a little over 1000 miles on them. When I contacted CC they said with the spring pressures I was running, the life of the lifter was 800 miles and 1000 miles for the springs. I spent a couple of the winter months calling different manufacturers. When I contacted Crower he asked if I was happy with the spring pressure I was running and I said yes, he then said continue to use it, and you won't have any problems, and they won't have to be rebuilt like others. They were right. I've also had a CC cam fail in yet a different motor. BTW I'm running 210lbs closed and 620lbs open pressures. Whenever my engine builder even mentions using something CC, I tell him give me my parts and I'll go elsewhere. The new engine has Ohio Crankshaft rotating assembly in it. Tall deck Dart block, and Dart 18 degree heads.

[FUNFER2]

Wow, that's too bad. A lot of headaches you've had with Comp.
I talked with Al from Blue Thunder and he was talking 850 lb. spring pressure so your 620 is a lot lower.

Are you sure your push rods aren't too long ?

[Excaliber]

That looks real interesting all right, I wonder if that will make the difference and get the motor to "live" past the 10,000 mile mark (8,000 in my case).

Still, correct lash adjustment will be critical here, NOT something to take for granted. A flat tappet can be out a little bit, not good but not terrible. With a solid roller even a little bit out of adjustment coud be a disaster.

[dcdoug]

Does this do the same thing?

http://www.harlandsharp.com/ford_nb.htm

[FUNFER2]

10,000,.... what do you have, a F-1 ? lol
When I talked to Blue Thunder, he's the second FE guy that said some west coast drag racers were running 10,000 rpm. That's amazing.

We set & check the sprint motor after every race but, it's never more than .0.2000 off cold,....at the most. What do you think makes the difference ?

[Excaliber]

Whoa, dude, I hear ya, 10,000 rpm! No, 10,000 highway miles is about all you can expect from a solid roller on the street. I got 8,000 miles before I broke one.

dcdoug, those roller rockers with bearings are sure nice, won't help those solid roller lifters live though, THAT is all about the oil that may or may not be able to get into those tiny little rollers that support the roller lifter.

If everything with valve geometry is good to go then yeah, you shouldn't have to re-adjust more than occasionally. With or without roller lifters. I'm just saying IF something DOES go wrong to change that clearance by much, you will HAMMER those tiny rollers in the lifter in short order.

You could, for instance, break a rocker arm shaft, which will change your clearance a lot. BUT with flat tappets you will be mostly OK until you figure it out. With solid rollers you better figure out real quick, or else. So there's less room for error in the valve train geometry with rollers.

[FUNFER2]

HS- $$1,185.45 wow.

With my first solid flat tappet, I broke the shaft at #1 cylinder and drove home 25 miles with no further damage.

[Excaliber]

Boy that is big money for the rockers, ouch!

The reason I mentioned rocker arm shaft breakage is it's actully some what common on the FE's. You really need to be extra careful on the end stands for getting the right height adjustment, etc. before you torque them down. I THINK the stock rocker arm assembly didn't even use good end stands, it's an after market "gotta have 'em" thing today, especially if your running higher spring pressures. Which you WILL be with roller rockers.

[FUNFER2]

Did you see these bushing rockers ?

http://www.harlandsharp.com/products...Shaft_Systems:

But, here's the problem- Over 350 spring pressure, you need the bearing roclers.

"If your spring pressure exceeds 350lbs. open, we also suggest upgrading to our end stand assembly, to prevent shaft breakage.

* If you're building a high rpm, high spring pressure, and high lift engine, you may want to consider our 7/8 shaft and needle bearing assembly."


FE Ford Bronze BushedPart #
S4006B
Rockers Only

S4006BK

S4006BKE
Includes End StandsRatio
1.76:1


1.76:1

1.76:1
Price
$446.25


$775.95

$891.45 fe ford V8 Bronze Bushed
Fits
1958-76 332-427-428

The Ford "FE" is back, and Harland Sharp has you covered for all your rocker arm needs. Whether your building a nostalgic FE or a new style engine with Edelbrock heads we have you covered. Our bronze bushed rocker system features an oilite bushing that fits on stock diameter shafts. We strongly recommend purchasing our rocker kit which includes, rockers, shafts, stands, solid spacers, adjusters and nuts. If your spring pressure exceeds 350lbs. open, we also suggest upgrading to our end stand assembly, to prevent shaft breakage.

* If you're building a high rpm, high spring pressure, and high lift engine, you may want to consider our 7/8 shaft and needle bearing assembly.

Part #
4006B-1Ratio
1.76:1
Price
$31.50

Special Notes:
* Rocker arms have a bronze bushing
* Roller tip with riveted pin
* Heat treat heavy duty shafts .840" diameter
* Steel stands & spacers

[FUNFER2]

When I bought the motor, it did not,..... have end stands and used factory rockers, and the shaft broke. After I learned about FE's, I bought the billet end stands. I have not had a problem since !

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by FUNFER2

Did you see these bushing rockers ?

I have the bushing HS rockers on mine. Pretty stock build, so I shouldn't have problems.