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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 10-05-2010, 05:09 PM
tboneheller's Avatar
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Cobra Make, Engine: E.R.A. #505
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I had a hard start problem a few years back. It only happened when hot. It turned out to be a stuck mechanical advance in the MSD distributor.
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Old 10-05-2010, 05:35 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tboneheller View Post
I had a hard start problem a few years back. It only happened when hot. It turned out to be a stuck mechanical advance in the MSD distributor.
That's a perfect example of when pulling the coil wire would make the engine crank perfectly (but not start). Then, if you're like me and only running 10 degrees initial timing, you would say to yourself "WTF, how could ten degrees be too much?" And then you'd look a little further and find your stuck advance.
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Old 04-30-2011, 01:29 PM
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Default Starter Problems when hot 427 FE S/O

Hello guys:
It seems that we suffer from a common Cobra problem. I have a West Coast Cobra powered by a 427 FE s/o after an hour run at normal temp 220 degrees the starter will do click click and no turning.

I purchased a high torque mini starter from JEGS and a heat shield. I still have the same problem. The battery cables appear to be great gauge and tight\.

I do not have an MSD box but I am waiting for one to be delivered as a possible solution. But reading all these threads it seems that there is more than one cause for this issue.

The fans could draw ampage for starting. I also have the bypass wire to the firewall solenoid some opinions are that this is not needed...
I am open to suggestions for this really pesky problem .
Thanks guys
Lou
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Old 04-30-2011, 01:54 PM
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I have experienced your problem with my 428 and solved it. The result was my timing was slightly advanced to much and needed to be retarded. The starter would not turn the motor at all hot much like a hydraulic lockup. Secondly, my battery was undersized. Good luck.
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Old 05-01-2011, 05:00 AM
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Default Too hot to start

BAsque 1 Lou IMO 220 for coolant temp is TOO high. This is not a nascar motor. All cobras have a problem, getting air in and ouit of the engine compartment. Hot air soak is causing some of the problems to start. I know guys hate this but my opening the hood an inch or 2, this help reduce the heat problem.
To start with install a 180F thermostat. Have a 50/50 coolant distilled water in the system. If you have coolant fans in the front of the radiator, remove them and try a road test on temp. There have been a couple of guys here that will tell you that these fans look cool but do little to nothing for helping supply more air though the radiator.
I am not sure how your radiator is mounted, straight up and down or at a 20-30 degree angle. Up and down is better. If at a 20-30 degree angle you need a deflector added to help bend the air to go through the radiator for cooling. The other thing is that after you are going over 45 mph on the road the fans do nothing to help increase flow. Try and make sure to have a schroud covering the radiator to force the air to come through this opening.
Pulleys what ones are you running? If they are under size, you are going to run hot. I have been through this problem for over 1 year. I even added louvers to my hood to help remove heat. I also now run to 4" fans in the fender duct to help suck out the hot air. Went from a brass radiator to an Aluminum one. All this helped over time. I run under size pulleys and can race for 20 minutes and have the motor in the 195-198 range after the run. Oil temp is a little higher in the 200-205 range.
Last, charging system and battery size. Except for trucks, I don't see any large cables for cars any more. Builders are using cable that are just enough to cover the "total" ampage spike load on startup. Wire is thinner and the covers are littler. Old days, welding cable. Battery, what is the CCA of it? You said that your cooling fan is some times on. This fan can draw up to 32 amps on high speed. A 600 cca battery will last about 15 minutes before not having enough to crank over a starter,even a mini starter that pulls about 120-140 amps. Charging system, in the old days a 45 to 70 amp system was fine with only a couple for curcuits to run, ign, lights, gauges, and fuel pumps. Today, IMO you need an 95 amp alt min for all the loads now put on the electrical system. Also a battery with a min of 800cca, 900-100o would be better. Also dual grounds to the car chassic and motor. Even have a direct ground wire to the starter mounting bolt is not a bad idea.
Lou try this, after your next drive, buy a cheap tempature gauge for an oven and place it under the hood, come back in 5 minutes and read the temp. It should drop about 50 -60 drgrees easy. If not try this test with opening the hood about the height of a 2X4" again recheck temp see what the differents is. See if car starts up also. I think you will fine that this will help. Good luck Rick l.
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