FE Header tanks....

[KevinW]

Need to make a decision on a header tank shortly.

I reckon the choices are

New Stainless tank
New Epoxy-covered black brass tank
Kirkham ali tank
Second hand tank (from ebay etc)

Last one I'm discarding due to lots of stories of leaks.
I like the Kirkham's mechanical design, but for my taste, its a little too box-like compared to the pressed brass OEM item.

The stainless types arent cheap, and i beleive stand a little taller than the brass ones.

I like the look of the original black brass tank, so would a brand new item be prone to leaking?

My application is fast road use, maybe 1-2 track days per year. Otherwise reasonably gentle driving with son on the co-pilot's seat.

Your thoughts?

Kevin

[garry viohl]

ebay ones leak
new black ones are made in china, the overflow nipple will break free after a while
I got fed up and got a kirkham

[rustyBob]

there is a reason why Ford only used those tanks for a short time...they are junk...
i spent 10 years working in a radiator shop and probably fixed at least 3 of those
things a week every week i worked there...either do away with it or drop some cash
and buy an aftermarket one...jmo...

[undy]

If you de-solder the tank, clean-up the joints and re-solder with 15% to 45% silver solder (like I did) you won't have any more leaks from your brass tank.

[ERA Chas]

Been in (my) service since the '80s-zero leaks. Don't know where it was before that. Just avoid overheating (240+). Undy is right if you buy used.

[KevinW]

thanks.
love the polished brass look of that tank Chas.

any other comments from anyone?

[mickmate]

If you buy a new brass one in pieces and put it together for your configuration you've got $300 into parts. That turns into a $500 assembled and painted one. I would recommend the stainless one for $500 (I was quoted $789 for the same thing!) and if you want it black (or Ford blue) powdercoat it. You can get good used ones and as suggested clean them and use better solder than days of old. I would make them like the originals to beef up the neck where they always vibrate loose and leak.

[olddog]

Tip on stainless steel. Don't use chlorinated water in it. Chlorine does some chemical thing to stainless and makes tubing prone to cracking, based on experience at my place of work. City drinking water with Chlorine was proven to be causing our tubing failures.

[davecobra]

Went with Kirkham and love it, nice fit good look and servicable. Plus David Kirkham was great to do business with.
David

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by mickmate

If you buy a new brass one in pieces and put it together for your configuration you've got $300 into parts. That turns into a $500 assembled and painted one. I would recommend the stainless one for $500 (I was quoted $789 for the same thing!) and if you want it black (or Ford blue) powdercoat it. You can get good used ones and as suggested clean them and use better solder than days of old. I would make them like the originals to beef up the neck where they always vibrate loose and leak.

Nick - don't you make these or refurbished ones?

Cobra Restorers also has them: http://www.cobrarestorers.com/ (search for "tank" and it will come up). I posted the link originally but it doesn't work to link directly to the product.

[Mark IV]

One of the big reasons the old tanks fail is the radiator hose used. Ford, for example on the 64-66 Thunderbird FEs used a hose shaped like a Question mark (?) this allowed the hose to flex and take stress off the neck and body. Most aftermarket service hoses are "L" shaped and as the engine rocks it stresses the joints on the tank.

The right hose and higher quality solder will prevent most problems.