428 FE Rockers

[brianski]

I have a SPF with a high performance 428FE. Unfortunately, I snapped a rocker arm yesterday after a nice wine country drive through Livermore CA. I also learned that this is a common problem with this motor. In the short time since it happened Ive been doing some research and it looks like there are a lot of names out there with more robust designs.

Can anyone recommend the best possible set to put on? Dove is a name that has come up a couple of times

Thanks!

[Barry_R]

T&D recently released a bolt on rocker system that would probably be the best package. It includes mounting studs, arms, stands and spacers, and a retail price tag just under $900. Rockers are roller at both tip and fulcrum and quality is excellent.

The next bet down would be a combination of parts - billet stands, spacers, a pair of new factory shafts, and roller tip rockers - not quite as nice, but saves about $300.

[RICK LAKE]

brainski B. If th camshaft is almost a stock size, say under .500" ,TOTAL lift I stock setup with good end supports for the shafts will work fine. You should get the ARP stud kit for holding the shaft assemblies in place. If money is not a problem, Fine someone one sell the older Erson kit. The only thing that may need to be done is checking for the correct length of the pushrolls. You want the roller to sit on the middle of the valve if possible. I have no info on the new Erson setup and have run a set for 5 years and have no problems with a .600" lift camshaft.
I would tell you to stay away from aluminum body rockers without bearings or bushings where they ride on the rocker shafts. Most important is getting supports for the rocker shafts that extend to both ends. Most breakage of shafts happens at a hold down hole. The support end does alot better job of keeping the assembly togeather. If you do an oiling mode to the rocker arm assemblies, DON'T go any smaller than an .080" size hole to each rocker assembly. This is for a street motor.
If you have a chance could you get a couple of pictures of the broken setup. Like to see what happened. Looking for blueing or just plain failure of a part. Rick L.

[mikeforte]

Hi Brian,
I sell the Harland Sharp rocker arm kits. Excellent quality and price. I have never had any failures.
Do you have stock non-adjustable or adjustable rockers? If non adjustable, you'll need pushrods...

Originally Posted by brianski

I have a SPF with a high performance 428FE. Unfortunately, I snapped a rocker arm yesterday after a nice wine country drive through Livermore CA. I also learned that this is a common problem with this motor. In the short time since it happened Ive been doing some research and it looks like there are a lot of names out there with more robust designs.

Can anyone recommend the best possible set to put on? Dove is a name that has come up a couple of times

Thanks!

[blykins]

I've had a lot of good luck out of the PRW rockers. They come in either aluminum or stainless, hardened shafts, billet stands, etc. The aluminum ones are very affordable at about $450 for the set. They come with rocker studs and all the hardware.

If you want something that's on the equivilent of the Erson rockers that are no longer available, T&D just started making their version of the Erson setup. They are $925 with shipping.

If you're running a flat tappet cam or a hydraulic roller, a lot of the aftermarket setups out there would work fine. Just make sure that they have good end stands as part of the package.

[Clois Harlan]

I have had my Sig Erson roller rocker arms for 8 years (I originally bought for my 428 CJ but I have since switched them over to my 427) and I have never had a problem with my top end. Like you, I originally had the stock type rocker arms and after breaking a couple of ends at very in opportune times I sprung for the more durable Sig Erson rocker arm assemblies. Not one complaint and I thrash my Cobra around the track quite a bit plus ample amount of street time. T&D and Harland Sharpe are also very good brands.


Clois

[Barry_R]

There are no "new" Ersons - they stopped making them several months ago. I purchased the last half dozen sets they had, and still keep some service parts on hand. There may be some in inventory somewhere - but I doubt it.

The new T&D street setup ostensibly replaced the Erson, and Erson is selling them as such. But they are considerably different in design. The T&D uses a horizontal bolt at the end to physically attach the end stand to the shaft, and has four independant stands similar to the original stuff. The now non-available Ersons had a consolidated two stand design that I really liked.

The Sharp parts are a very viable option as well - they've been making FE parts for a very long time. They are the only ones I am aware of that use a steel stand instead of aluminum - a pretty good idea.

Here are the T&Ds:

[mikeforte]

Hi,
I sell the Harland Sharp American made rocker set for $750.00. I have a set going on an engine soon and I could send pictures on monday if that helps....
Thanks,

[COBRAMAN 484]

I have been running the same set of Harland Sharp rockers with Ford Power Part stands for 15 years with no problems.

Peter

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by COBRAMAN 484

I have been running the same set of Harland Sharp rockers with Ford Power Part stands for 15 years with no problems.

Peter

Same parts, a little longer.

[brianski]

Unfortunately after inspection.. it appears that when the motor was built they used softer springs (50lbs lower than recommended for setup. I have the car in the shop now.. top end will need to be rebuilt.. The motor is a solid lifter 428FE.. due to under engineering on the valve train .. there's been excessive wear on on lifters and camshaft, valves, etc.... yike$. I had the car inspected by a guy who is supposedly the "cars to the stars" kind of guy. He charged me a fortune and missed something obvious.. I even mentioned valve train as something to check. Love the car.. but 4 months in I'm more po'd that I was patted on the head and essentially ripped off on the purchase inspection.. maybe even the broker.

[RICK LAKE]

BRIANSKI Brain Not sure with your motor, what damage from the built and have not seen any pictures of it.
The last couple of years there has been a MAJOR problem with oil for the motors with not having enough zinc and other materials that make motors run 100K in miles. Machinist all had different ideas on helping make a motor live longer, with solid and hydro lifters. Lighter valve springs was one, oil additives, removing valve springs for break in to 1,000 miles. The cheap lifters where failing with some of the best builders in the world.
You said you had the car checked out, compression test, leak down test, oil leaks, coolant pressure test, and oil sample test. These are some of the outside tests on a motor. I don't know of too many sellers that will allow you to get into the motor, pulling valve covers and oil pans.
You say that the motor has some miles on it and a couple of heat cycles. The springs may loose up to 30 pound of closed pressure after breakin. You get what you pay for with this. The other thing is what rpm are you turning with this motor. If it's running a FE bottom end even with ARP bolts in the rods, a 6,000 is a safe limit. Running high rpms that, just shorting the life of the motor. Light spring will stop you from over revs. Valves start to float and you loose power.
If there is wear on the valve train, there could be also other issues.
The motor is a solid lifter block? or you are just running a solid setup? I don't think a 428 came as a solid lifter block, but will check. Any way are you running a windage tray? This cuts down on the spray and splash for the lifters and camshaft in the block. Valve lash, if looser than spec, perwear is going to happen. Oiling system where any modifications done to it? Oil pressure at idle and 2,000 rpms hot? May not be enought to lube the motor properly. What kind of oil was being used?? Running a higher rate valve spring may and could do the same damage again if these questions are not answered and fixed. Run the motor with 1 extra quart of oil because of FE motors having poor returns to the oil pan. Does the motor sit for a week or more before running? If so, you have a metal on metal startup. A preoiler may be a safe way to stop this. I know they are not cheap but going to roller camshafts and lifters are better than solid lifters. Rolling beats rubbing, even dry. The solid roller lifters now have pressurized oiling for the pins and bearings and have extended the life to 20-40K miles. As for rockers, only get ones with bronze bushings or bearings. Heavy duty shafts and most important good set of shaft supports with end plates. If you have any pictures, could you post them. Rick L.