4EVER FE Brad Here's a couple of ideas ups sides and downs,
Is the "V" sand casted into the block surface?
As far as the motor build, compression is high with iron heads. If you like pinging and knocking you are on the right track without octane boosters
E-85 will help alot and you can keep the compression. Power will be less that straight gas or track gas.
Watch your timing total and timing curve.
If you are going to run any gas now you are better to run SS lines and NO rubber. The rubber hoses break down with the E-85 gas and even pumped gas for you local station over time.
IF you have a VIRGIN set of highriser heads and intake manifold without any repair or machine work, SELL THEM. 2,500.00-3,000.00 easy in worth to someone for racing a thunderbolt car.
Go over to the FE forum and also put this question to the guys over there.
As for motor, sonic check all the bores first. If everything checks out OK then IMO I would buy a storker kit and build a 466 to 482 with this block. Get a 4.25 kit with BBC rods and get pistons that require the least amount of bore work needed. Diamond will make an custom piston for your motor with 4.23 and up. Get a good
oil pump and run a 80# spring in it with 7 quart pan and over fill 1 quart. This is due to the gearing and the trans you have. Torque moves the car not HP.
In the last 4-5 years 80% of the guys have gone to roller camshaft setups. Depending on rpm range either hydros or solids. Hydros need less maintainance and you loss about 20-30 HP in top end, depending on setup of valve train and other issues. Alot of the additives have been removed from
oil of past. Solid lifter motors have suffered more failures that hydro lifter ones. Valve lash being correct and
oil additives, are a must for motor life. I run a 15W-40 Rotella oil in my motors with Lucas oil suppliment. PRE oiling motor before startup is IMO also a big plus. accusump 2 or 3 Quart setup will help on startups and stop metal on metal rubbing until oil pressure is built up. 85% of wear is on starting this has not changed since day 1.
Ignition The new guy on the block is "ICE" and is better than MSD and price is higher. MSD I have been running for 16 years. Caps and rotors are their only problem I have found. Some guys run standard over the counter caps with solid buttom in the centered and not carbon piles, same for rotors with thicker conact spring. Phazing distributor is a must. I run an HVC "E" coil and no problems. Oil filled coils need to be mounted vertical to help control the heating of it. I also don't like coils mounted on motors because of vibrations help break down winding. As far a Pertronics I have never used them but do know that you have to watch the voltage going to the system. They run 8 to 10 volts in this safe range. Again goto FE forum, couple of guys run them and have figured out and found issues to correct failures. Over chargin system is 1.
Carb, Here's another endless possiblities. Smaller carb, higher vacuum signal better responce, better drivibility. You could run a 450 cfm. or a 1,200 cfm dominator. My rule is bigger is not better. There are custom carbs in the $600.00 tp 1,000.00 range that will give you the best of all worlds with custom blocks and many jets and bleed jets to work with. The other thing is are you going with a choke?? If you limit the rpms to 6,500 a 650 DFDP will work great. You will lose a couple of HP in the top end, this is a street car. You are also running cruising gears. IMO I wouldn't go bigger than a 750-780DPDF cfm . That cam is going to give you low vacuum signal to run a vacuum power valve. If you are looking for the best overall power, buying an Air/ Fuel meter and watching the readings will help get max power in all ranges from the motor. Need to install a bung for the o2 sensor in exhaust. Exhaust run a 2 1/2" dual. You need a little back pressure to help the torque power curve. +1-2 psi HG at WOT is a good number and will not hurt HP. You would be better to build a torque motor with the weight of your car. If you want to talk more send a p-m to me. Rick L. Ps MATCHING parts is the best way to get max power, drivibilty, and enjoyment. Alot of guys have put the wrong thing together and are unhappy with car when done. Buy a rocker system with end shafts support mounts and rollers on both body of rockers and end over the valve. Also get,make or buy a pushrod checker and get the correct length. Watch that the pushrods don't rub on the intake manifold of during complete range. I run a beehive spring with a 6,200 rpm limit. Make sure you have enough spring to control valves and valve train at whatever your max rpms will be. Dyno motor and this will tell you. 500 rpm pass max HP. Anything after this is just wasteing the motor.ARP fasteners also through out. Good luck. Rick L.
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