Suggestions for FE 428 specs

[patrickt]

So the zip tie suggestion is a no-go?

[kevins2]

Conversation with engine builder:

Me: Oh, one more thing - can you please zip tie my secondaries so they won't open?
Engine builder: Huh?

Seriously, the zip tie idea makes a point but I'd probably not actually do that. I'm capable of being careful when I know the consequences. I'd love to find a road like the photo that elmariachi posted or an abandoned air strip - somewhere where I could just let loose without worring about hitting anything. Not sure if there is anything like that around here but will check with the locals. Probably won't be able to get on a track with a car set up for street.

And, Rodknock, I've seen the youtube videos of spin-outs and crashes. I also know that there are thousands of guys that have driven for years without incident. I guess what it all boils down to is how much engine is too much for the street...and the answer varies from person to person. I'll be meeting with some locals this Spring and maybe I'll get a couple of rides that will answer the question for me before I have to make a final decision on the engine specs.

Thanks again for all the helpful (and sometimes amusing) advice.

Regards,

Kevin

[blykins]

A vac secondary carb is certainly do-able...

However, with that being said, no one just jumps in *any* car and puts the pedal to the floor. It's going to be the same with the Cobra....you get in, and you drive it the way you need to drive it.

These cars are not death traps if you have some common sense and are cautious. The worst part about them is the short wheelbase....if you get one crossed up, it's going to take a lot of work on your part to get it straightened back out.

Keep in mind though, that it's going to be like that with almost any car that weighs 2200-2400 lbs and has more than 300 hp....

[patrickt]

Kevin, are you doing the build or is ERA?

[kevins2]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Kevin, are you doing the build or is ERA?

I'm having ERA bond the body and send it out for paint. I'm doing the rest. ERA's kits seem pretty straight forward compared to some others that I looked at so, even with limited experience, I'm sure I can get through it just fine.

Regards,

Kevin

[lovehamr]

Originally Posted by kevins2

I'd love to find a road like the photo that elmariachi posted or an abandoned air strip - somewhere where I could just let loose without worring about hitting anything. Not sure if there is anything like that around here but will check with the locals. Probably won't be able to get on a track with a car set up for street.Kevin

Hey Kev, southern OH, former airbase, lots of power....... jus sayin'
East Coast Timing Association

[kevins2]

Originally Posted by lovehamr

Hey Kev, southern OH, former airbase, lots of power....... jus sayin'
East Coast Timing Association

Thanks, that would be perfect except it is over 500 miles and 9 hours away. I did a lot of motorcycle drag racing in the mid-70's on an old airport runway in Alabama. Don't think it's in operation anymore, but those types of facilities are awesome. I know it kept me from doing stupid things on the streets (instead I did even more stupid things on the runway ).

Thanks,

Kevin

[patrickt]

Kevin, let us know what sort of options you're opting for. Some of the "little ones," like the extra venting and shielding around the primaries, really makes a difference. Instead of rivets, you might consider using a Marson Thread-Setter Tool. It lets you set a nice machine screw installation instead of a rivet. In fact, one of my first projects when I get her out of hibernation this spring will be to put in an access panel on the tunnel to service the front u-joint (which you can't get to if you have the outboard braked rear and handbrake). I'll use the Marson on that and post pics, of course. Here's the tool:

[kevins2]

Hmmm...something to consider - I'll read up on the Marson Thread-Setter Tool. As for options:

Smith gauges, leather, ss sidepipes, heater, powder-coated frame, glovebox, soft top, side curtains, tonneau, sway bars (maybe just front for street driving?), wheel housing vents (Peter actually tried to talk me out of those, but I think they will make a big difference so will get them. Don't know about shielding around primaries?), 5 pin wheels, Mickey Thompson tires, dual front fans (love the look), oil cooler (would look empty without it - may not even hook it up), trunk carpet, fluted switches, coolant tank, insulation on outside of footboxes, ERA floor mats, round tail lights/reflector shields.

Still have my configuration with the standard Jag rear-end with inboard brakes. Have it in my list of questions to discuss with Peter. If I'm reading their website correctly, the optional ERA rear includes the adaptors for the pin wheels (it isn't clear on 5 or 6 pin). If that is the case, then the cost difference to upgrade to the ERA outboard setup isn't as much as listed because with the Jag rear I'd have to buy the adaptors. Haven't priced it out yet so don't know the cost yet. I don't need the ERA rear since I'm not going to track the car, but it seems to be a desirable option and may play into the value of the car.

Also, I initially had the brake/clutch fluid reproduction resevoirs on the list, but Peter crossed them out and put in BMW single reservoir. I think that's the see-through plastic reservoir - will have to ask. Peter probably noticed the sweat beads forming on my forehead as I was doing the math in my head and was trying to help me out a bit

I'm bad about wanting options, as you can see. Did the same thing with my Harley and chrome/accessories. My wife finally asked me why I didn't just have the bike dipped in chrome. I responded with a look like I thought that was a good idea and she just shook her head and walked away...

Kevin

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by kevins2

Still have my configuration with the standard Jag rear-end with inboard brakes. Have it in my list of questions to discuss with Peter. If I'm reading their website correctly, the optional ERA rear includes the adaptors for the pin wheels (it isn't clear on 5 or 6 pin). If that is the case, then the cost difference to upgrade to the ERA outboard setup isn't as much as listed because with the Jag rear I'd have to buy the adaptors.

I don't know the answer to that. But I will tell you that for a mostly-driven-on-the-street car, there is really no need for the outboard braked rear. The Jag rear is just fine, even for casual track use. The only reason I got it was that I just liked the looks of it all. One of the things you have to kind of watch out for when you're laying out your plan is that an upgrade in one area can trigger an unexpected upgrade in another area. For instance, back when I had my car built Peter did not want the smaller brakes up front with the outboard braked rear -- so that meant an upgrade to the big Sierras up front. And I don't even remember why I went with 6 pins instead of 5. You can't even see the difference unless you pull the wheel, and I don't think it had anything to do with the brakes or the rear. Those black Girling brake reservoirs look cool, but they blister and drip. I still keep them, though; just because they look cool.

[KevinW]

So my car was brimmed for its IVA test (the extensive Uk test needed to get a car registered). Apart from being tested on the rollers for speedometer and brake tests and revved a few times at different points during the test, it has now done a 20 mile round trip. I have now topped up the tank and estimate i have averaged 6 mpg!

This is a 428 (not bored out), no big lumpy cam, achieved around 480 hp on the dyno, similar in torque before installation, 4 speed toploader and a 2.88 diff and was driven really very gently during the summer when it was hot here (95 degree F - that's UK hot).

Running rich? I thought i would get 12mpg easy. As the OP said, mpg and FE in the same sentence is a joke, but with much higher price of fuel in the UK, i am a bit disappointed.

[patrickt]

I have a 428, stroked and bored to 447, with a healthy SFT cam. Not huge, by any means, it's 245/245 at .050", and I always get 8mpg in normal driving, which is about half and half highway and city. When I took her on a long highway trip, I got 12mpg cruising at about 70mph. Now, with my .64OD and 3.54 rear, that means I was turning about 2200rpm. And those numbers have been consistent for over a decade.

[Dwight]

I've told this story several times so today it's the short version.

Mike picked up his Cobra with a new KC 530 hp 408W. Drove it 130 miles home. Called me and said he was getting 7 mpg. I told him to bring it back and I would get Coach to tune the carb.
After the tune he was getting 13 ish. The next year I drove it to the London Cobra Show (1135 miles) and got 14.7 mpg.

My suggest is to get the carb "tuned", that is more that idle screws and air bleed adjustment.
Check the jets and power valve. I have never seen a new carb out of the box that was dead on. Most have jets that are to large.
We have several big block Cobra in our group and they get over 11 mpg.