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CC Advertisers
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04-02-2012, 05:33 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Just buy the OEM starter like you see on mine. Rick, isn't that the easiest answer? 
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04-02-2012, 05:43 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
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Not Ranked
Why?????
Pat WHY buy another starter that doesn't have the same power as a mini, about half the weight, about 1/3 the ampage draw to crank, and minis can crank over 16.0 compression motors without any problems because of gear reduction of about 4.40 - 1.0. I don't have any specs on wrenchs motor, do you?? How about on a hot day with a hot soak of that OEM starter and watch it draw 250-300 amps to crank. Oem starter turn one to one and some times that is just too much for the drives ,bushings, or bendix. There nothing wrong with what he is doing, just needs some good info for setup. Rick L.
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04-02-2012, 05:46 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Alright Rick, don't have a cow....  He's got a rather mild FE; perfect for an OEM.  But, let him grind away....
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04-02-2012, 06:09 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: seekonk,
ma
Cobra Make, Engine: factory five mkIII roadster 445 fe quick fuel 750 q series,irs
Posts: 468
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Not Ranked
ok here is what i found i did not reinstall everything but hoping what i found was the problem. on the quicktime blockplate they have 4 holes up top to go around the galley plugs well 3 the 4th hole does not go to anything , also the gallley plug right above the crank did not have a hole so between this and the rear cam plug was not fully seated on the left side it was holding the block plate away from the block, i drilled a hole for the bottom galley plug and seated the cam plug also the machinist installed silicone over the plug which made it worse, the plate no sits flush on its own. i hope this was it.
my engine is a 72 390 block .030 over 4.250 steel crank , eagle 6.7 rods diamond pistons slight dish 10.0 comp ratio a set of keith crafts stage i heads with a little more work done, edelbrock performer rpm port matched and flowed, comp cam hydraulic roller cam 598-617 lift 230-238 duration 112 lobe center, smith bro pushrods, crane t bar lifters, erson rockers ram aluminum flywheel ram big block chevy clutch my flywheel was drilled for it,
quick time 6056 bell housing, edelbrock water pump, msd 8594 dis i installed light silver and light blue spring with the silver bushing, i have not bought a carb yet going for a 750-850 mech secondary no choke or choke horn would like to run turkey pan but undecided. i have 8.8 irs 373 gears and a tremec 3550 trans with 26 spline input. i know tranny and gears are not ideal but that is what i was running with my 342 engine. steve
__________________
factory five mk III roadster, 445 fe stroker
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04-02-2012, 07:29 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Williamsport,
PA
Cobra Make, Engine: Kellison Stallion 468 FE
Posts: 2,703
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Not Ranked
Wrench,
if you bought the 5049 CVR starter, that is the correct one for 184 tooth flywheel.
by the pick of the engagement.....it looks like the drive needs to engage more, as you are only 50% engaged.
so after your mod....with the plug or whatever you did....does it engage the flywheel more?
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Fred B
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04-03-2012, 04:26 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
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Not Ranked
How is your starter wired??
wrench87 You see the problem with the teeth issue and can fix this. My understanding is that the starter drive doesn't retract? If you push on the nose, does it? You have have the power to it setup wrong. There should be a short wire coming off the starter soleniod. This bolts to the main stud for the battery cable that comes from the starter soleniod on the fire wall. If you have battery power going to the soleniod the drive will stay out and not retract. If you have a test light just check with the battery hooked up to the starter for no power going to the soleniod. This should fix the starter issue. Rick L. PS Wrench87 unless you have the oil pump hooked up and distrubutor in this motor, OIL AND FILTER IN THE MOTOR, DON'T CRANK IT WITH THE STARTER. You will wipe off the prelube and cause a dry start condition. Doesn't matter weather the plugs are in or out of the heads. Please don't do this. Rick L.
Last edited by RICK LAKE; 04-03-2012 at 04:30 AM..
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04-03-2012, 05:45 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: seekonk,
ma
Cobra Make, Engine: factory five mkIII roadster 445 fe quick fuel 750 q series,irs
Posts: 468
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Not Ranked
fwb, i have not reinstalled every thing yet to retry, rick the engine is not in the car i was running a mini starter with my small block i did have a solenoid on the fire wall if i remember i used it for a junction for the 12v cable and as a jumper for the ignition start wire?. the engine has been prelubed witha drill on several occasions, if you turn over your engine by hand to set the valves you will scrape off the lube. also the tech guy at cvr said they like to see 50 percent engagement with there starters?. once i put everything back on i will post.
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factory five mk III roadster, 445 fe stroker
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