Lead Additive/Octane Booster

[BAsque1]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Lou-you missed the entire point. You don't need av, racing or any gas beyond about 91 octane. And you need no lead or ANY other kind of additives.
None of it will add power or increase longevity. Don't waste your money - so you can buy those fancy wheels.
Your set-up will run on chicken soup.

ERA-Chas:
I did not really wanted more power, I think I have plenty, I was just concerned about the effect on the valves by not having the lead.
By the way I do want to change my wheels, how did you guess?
I will ask my Jewish daughter in law to make some kosher chicken soup as additive to my Cobra
Cheers
Lou

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by BAsque1

ERA-Chas:
I did not really wanted more power, I think I have plenty, I was just concerned about the effect on the valves by not having the lead.
By the way I do want to change my wheels, how did you guess?
I will ask my Jewish daughter in law to make some kosher chicken soup as additive to my Cobra
Cheers
Lou

Lou,
The absence of lead as stated earlier will not hurt for a long, long time of usage. I just don't want you to handle it in any form. Even great chicken soup won't cure those effects.
Listen, especially if you're considering parts upgrades, you need to get the basics better.
Like your idle advance should be between 12 and 18 degrees and 36 or so total-not 8 BTDC.
You probably have a very mild cam and not much displacement so you'd need to coordinate several changes if you're after more power. Ask questions if bigger power is what you seek.
If your car drives fine and gets you around, just leave as is. You can easily get more pep by getting the timing right-not by additives, mothballs, meatballs or av/race gas.

[DanEC]

If aviation gas or a nearby source of racing fuel just aren't good options for you, or if you just feel more comfortable running some lead in your fuel, this is the only product worth spending your money on - if you can still find it - Kemco Octane 130.

Octane Supreme 130, 6-32oz.

This is real lead (100% real Tetraethyl) , real octane booster, illegal for street use, costly as hell. You can Google it and read about it. Last I heard it wasn't available anymore but this ad says it has been reintroduced. I have a case of it that will probably last me for awhile.

I have a bone-stock Plymouth GTX whose 440 motor just doesn't like 93 octane premium with 36 deg timing. A quarter bottle of this stuff in the tank at fill ups and it does just fine. Pour a whole bottle in and the aroma of the exhaust will bring back memories of the 60s although the EPA will hate you.

Personally I don't think the lead is needed for engine durability - but if you need a little more Octane rating this will do it.

[RET_COP]

Undy--Not really true... Lucas and the rest of them are also snake oil...

[sx] Octane Boosters <long_but worth the read>

I can find alot more. Its not snake oil, just maybe not worth it.
I mix my own fuel and use Toluene and IT WORKS! but I'll leave that for another discussion

[BAsque1]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Lou,
The absence of lead as stated earlier will not hurt for a long, long time of usage. I just don't want you to handle it in any form. Even great chicken soup won't cure those effects.
Listen, especially if you're considering parts upgrades, you need to get the basics better.
Like your idle advance should be between 12 and 18 degrees and 36 or so total-not 8 BTDC.
You probably have a very mild cam and not much displacement so you'd need to coordinate several changes if you're after more power. Ask questions if bigger power is what you seek.
If your car drives fine and gets you around, just leave as is. You can easily get more pep by getting the timing right-not by additives, mothballs, meatballs or av/race gas.

Chas:
I understand the risk of handling the lead, and I agree.

The car has a 427 SO which was dynoed at 550 hp at the rear wheels 3 years ago, so displacement and power is not the issue, especially since I do not race this car.

I did tried the timing other than 8* BTDC and the engine diesels after I turn it off, so the best timing to avoid this was 8* 750 RPM in idle.

I have not touched the cam nor I have any info that the previous owner did,however, it seem that it is a mild cam.
Thank you so much for your detailed comments man. Your last statement wraps it well, I will leave it as is, I am happy with that.
Cheers
Lou

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by BAsque1

Chas:


The car has a 427 SO which was dynoed at 550 hp at the rear wheels 3 years ago, so displacement and power is not the issue, especially since I do not race this car.

I did tried the timing other than 8* BTDC and the engine diesels after I turn it off, so the best timing to avoid this was 8* 750 RPM in idle.

Lou,
I respectfully disagree with your stated power numbers. In order for you to make 550 at the wheels, it needs to make 643 at the crank. No 427-sized FE in my experience will make 1.5HP / CI on pump gas with iron heads and 8 degrees at idle, and still idle at 750. If you were told these numbers by previous owner I understand the misunderstanding. If you witnessed the numbers and have dyno data yourself, please post.
My 427 makes 550 at the crank and 462 at the wheels. And runs on 93 octane with 22 initial and 38 total.

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by BAsque1

Chas:
I understand the risk of handling the lead, and I agree.

The car has a 427 SO which was dynoed at 550 hp at the rear wheels 3 years ago, so displacement and power is not the issue, especially since I do not race this car.

I did tried the timing other than 8* BTDC and the engine diesels after I turn it off, so the best timing to avoid this was 8* 750 RPM in idle.

I have not touched the cam nor I have any info that the previous owner did,however, it seem that it is a mild cam.
Thank you so much for your detailed comments man. Your last statement wraps it well, I will leave it as is, I am happy with that.
Cheers
Lou

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Lou,
I respectfully disagree with your stated power numbers. In order for you to make 550 at the wheels, it needs to make 643 at the crank. No 427-sized FE in my experience will make 1.5HP / CI on pump gas with iron heads and 8 degrees at idle, and still idle at 750. If you were told these numbers by previous owner I understand the misunderstanding. If you witnessed the numbers and have dyno data yourself, please post.
My 427 makes 550 at the crank and 462 at the wheels. And runs on 93 octane with 22 initial and 38 total.

I have to agree here.



Lou,
If your engine runs-on at anything above 8 degrees, then it must be a fairly mild motor, compression /cam etc.
As stated above, I find it hard to believe you can make that hp/ci and idle at 750 with 8 degrees.
Nobody I know runs less than 16 at idle on anything that is warm, and most run in the 18-22 bracket, some with 10 degree start retards.
For a street/race car you would be doing well to get over 1.5hp/ci and still be "streetable".

[BAsque1]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Lou,
I respectfully disagree with your stated power numbers. In order for you to make 550 at the wheels, it needs to make 643 at the crank. No 427-sized FE in my experience will make 1.5HP / CI on pump gas with iron heads and 8 degrees at idle, and still idle at 750. If you were told these numbers by previous owner I understand the misunderstanding. If you witnessed the numbers and have dyno data yourself, please post.
My 427 makes 550 at the crank and 462 at the wheels. And runs on 93 octane with 22 initial and 38 total.

Chas:
Those were the numbers passed on to me by the previous owner, I will try to get in touch with him, perhaps he send me incorrect # I will find out if I can reach him in CA. There is nothing I can do about the 8* BTC now those are the results I have seen when tune up the car. I did say that I do have a mild cam, nor have I done any major changes to the engine. I am happy with the power I have.
Lou