Removing heads in a Kirkham

[MOTORHEAD]

Does anyone know if FE heads with studs in a Shelby block can be removed by first removing the studs ? How far into the block do the studs go ? I know that the heads cannot be removed with the studs in place, and some of the rear studs cannot be removed completely because of proximity to the foot wells. I was thinking those could be removed from the block but left sitting in the heads.
Also there is no room for my stud removal tool, would have to double nut studs to pull them out.
Has Anyone done this ?

[Cobra #3170]

Originally Posted by MOTORHEAD

Does anyone know if FE heads with studs in a Shelby block can be removed by first removing the studs ? How far into the block do the studs go ? I know that the heads cannot be removed with the studs in place, and some of the rear studs cannot be removed completely because of proximity to the foot wells. I was thinking those could be removed from the block but left sitting in the heads.
Also there is no room for my stud removal tool, would have to double nut studs to pull them out.
Has Anyone done this ?

Pull the engine, in the long run it will be easier.

[Jerry Clayton]

the studs should only be aprox an inch longer than a stock bolt just up top for the nut---

but I agree that probably you should remove that hunk to work on it-too many areas for leaks, etc working in those conditions on re installing heads and manifolds

[FWB]

yep studs are a bastard in these cars and in shock tower cars with a FE engine. you could probably do what your describing. lifting the heads off with the studs floating in there will probably be a two man job.

i put bolts in lieu of studs in my motor for this very reason. pulling the motor is a big pain in the arse to do heads or gaskets

[maurice19]

Motorhead,

You can unbolt the motor mounts and raise the engine slightly and have clearance to remove the heads. Works fine, and a better solution than removing the studs in my experience.

Maurice

[RICK LAKE]

MOTORHEAD You can do this in the car with some work. The studs are about 10" long to 12" long They bolt to the botom of the block at the mains. There is no pull of the cylinder walls. This is some of the reason this block will now take about 2,000 hp. Anyway Try Snapon or Matco for a easy out stud remover. It looks like a long socket with 3 or 4 bars inside that roll and lock onto the stud and not damage the threads. You can double nut the stud if you want. Believe it or not, the easiest way is like Cobra 3170 said is to pull the motor. Have plenty of room to work on it, no damage to the fenders from dropping things or scratches. You can cock it in the bay, make sure you loosen the trans mount. Have seen this mount split, make sure the stud clears the crossmember too. Good luck Rick L. ps I will go to work and get the name of the extractor for removal of stubds or broken bolts.

[MOTORHEAD]

Thanks for all the good info guys. I've found an intake gasket leakage problem relating to manifold fitment, that if I can't fix it, I'll dump the webers and go back to the 4bl and BT manifold. If it runs ok after intake leak fix, I'll forgo pulling the heads for now. RR coming up in a few weeks, and weather finally has cooled down (mid 80's) so it's now possible to drive these things in the daytime w/o heatstroke !! If I still have valve train gremlins after it 's back together, I'll have to pull the heads then, but with intake and headers off I've been able to r&r springs, pull and inspect lifters, and visually verify valve seats are not floating around.
Thanks again,
Ted

[Bernica]

I know however you look at it, it's a PITA. Lift the body? Gives you a chance to shake things from nose to tail. And you can leave the motor in place.

[1ntCobra]

Originally Posted by Bernica

I know however you look at it, it's a PITA. Lift the body? Gives you a chance to shake things from nose to tail. And you can leave the motor in place.

Lifting the body on a Kirkham?

[flipscobra]

I have pulled the heads on my FE Shelby block several times and replaced a head gasket, here is what you have to do on a Superformance. First unbolt motor supportsslide motor all the way to one side then jack up the engine an put some cribbing under the side you are going to be working on. then let engine down on cribbing, this will roll your engine over enought to get the head off the studs. once you get the head back on the motor make sure you torque the studs, because once let it down you will not have enought room to torque them. Hope this helps. Flip

[MOTORHEAD]

Thanks for the tip, Flip!
As it turns out, the switch to the 4 bbl set-up solved my problems with the oil fouling and also no more backfiring in the exhaust when lifting on the gas.!! But a noticable decrease in power. I'll be switching back to the webers when I get the manifold issue worked out, and I'll be pulling the head and maybe the engine (rearseal leak) at that time. But for now, the weather is good, so i'll keep it on the road !!!!!
Ted

[flipscobra]

Hey Motorhead, if you ever getup this way stop bye, I live just outside of Savannah Ga.Keep the tip handy because it works. Flip

[TomP]

I think that is the sort of thing you want to find out before breaking down on a road trip!