Lykins Motorsports 496FE Build...

[RICK LAKE]

bylkins Brent I see you are looking for 7,000 rpms and high HP. Doesn't your buyer know that TORQUE moved his car and HP is just a by product.
If looking for a quick revving motor, going to titanium rods would save alot of weight a\or even aluminum rods if he is told about heating up the motor first before beating on it. Are you going with a roller bearing motor for the camshaft? Lifters are .904"? Pac and Comp have new beehive springs out but are limited in the .700" lift range with a min coil bind.
I don't see why guys are not looking at 4.280 bore motors with 4.375 crank shafts. We have a couple of guys here racing and these motors make stupid power 760-800 hp and also run to 7,000 rpms but not recommended. Piston speed gets a little high. This is my next motor with TWM 58mm
I also have a set of stage 3 heads with KC ports. I got 368 on intake with 11/16 valves. I am looking at 8mm intake valves at 2.25". will stay with 11/16 on exhaust. I don't see a great differents between the 2 unless more work is done on multi vale angles. The valve where not back cut only 3 angle setup. You can pickup 5-10 cfm in the low range with cut back. I am going with a little stronger beehive than the old 126 springs for BBC motors. These springs do drop off at about 5,800 rpms with hydro lifters. Trick here is to have them pump up and run total.015" valve lash. They will still lose power to 6,200 but not like the correct adjustment or hit the pistons. The other help is running 75-80 psi of oil pressure.
Hope your guy is going dry sump or an accusump pre oiler. Sound like a good build. Looking forward to seeing it. Rick. Ps that street twim works great. Going to buy another one for TA.

[blykins]

Rick, we seem to be on different sides of the playground on a couple of subjects....especially with the horsepower vs. torque thing....

I've done the 4.280" bore with the 4.375" stroke engines, that end up at around 501-503 cubic inches. This one is pretty close to that at 496, and I'd rather have the displacement with the larger bore and shorter stroke on an engine like this.

Titanium rods would be nice, but just not worth it at over $4000 a set. Aluminum rods are cheaper, but with a 4.250" stroke, I'd say they'd probably hit everything but the water pump, and honestly, I'm just not comfortable with using them on a street engine, especially a customer's street engine. I'm using Oliver rods on this build, with small block Chevy rod journals. They are slightly lighter than the same rod with the BBC rod journals and the 2.100" journal keeps the bearing speed down.

As for roller cam bearings, they are unnecessary in a lot of the engines out there. The only real reason to use them is if we go to a 50 or 55mm cam journal, where there aren't a lot of cam bearing choices available. This has changed slightly over the years though, and there are lots of babbitt bearings out for the larger cores. We are looking at probably 650-660 lbs open pressure with this cam, 700 at tops. Certainly no reason to hop over to a much more expensive cam journal. I've got my eye on a set of PSI circle track valve springs, so that's probably the direction I'll head.

I do plan to put bronze lifter bore bushings in the block though as they will lend more stability to the lifter, especially at the lift we'll be using here. The owner is supplying me with some bushed Crower lifters that he bought new just several hundred miles ago, so we are going to use them. I normally would choose a .904" lifter, but the .875" lifters will suffice here.

The underlying theme here is that it's a street engine. Every component that's been chosen has been chosen with that in mind (although we are on the fringe with a lot of them), but also chosen to make sure that the engine will be reliable at high rpms.

Using custom 5/16" Ferrea valves on this one and it will be interesting to see if the flow picks up with them. They are certainly lighter than the 11/32" valves.

BTW, I also spec'd a McLeod twin disc for him, they are certainly great clutches when you're working with big hp on the street.

[philminotti]

"Hit everything but the water pump"... I laughed so hard the Coke i was drinking came out my nose.

[Cobra #3170]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

bylkins Brent I see you are looking for 7,000 rpms and high HP. Doesn't your buyer know that TORQUE moved his car and HP is just a by product.
If looking for a quick revving motor, going to titanium rods would save alot of weight a\or even aluminum rods if he is told about heating up the motor first before beating on it. Are you going with a roller bearing motor for the camshaft? Lifters are .904"? Pac and Comp have new beehive springs out but are limited in the .700" lift range with a min coil bind.
I don't see why guys are not looking at 4.280 bore motors with 4.375 crank shafts. We have a couple of guys here racing and these motors make stupid power 760-800 hp and also run to 7,000 rpms but not recommended. Piston speed gets a little high. This is my next motor with TWM 58mm
I also have a set of stage 3 heads with KC ports. I got 368 on intake with 11/16 valves. I am looking at 8mm intake valves at 2.25". will stay with 11/16 on exhaust. I don't see a great differents between the 2 unless more work is done on multi vale angles. The valve where not back cut only 3 angle setup. You can pickup 5-10 cfm in the low range with cut back. I am going with a little stronger beehive than the old 126 springs for BBC motors. These springs do drop off at about 5,800 rpms with hydro lifters. Trick here is to have them pump up and run total.015" valve lash. They will still lose power to 6,200 but not like the correct adjustment or hit the pistons. The other help is running 75-80 psi of oil pressure.
Hope your guy is going dry sump or an accusump pre oiler. Sound like a good build. Looking forward to seeing it. Rick. Ps that street twim works great. Going to buy another one for TA.

Rick,

Did you flow the heads yourself or are they KC numbers?

PS Torque is nice, but torque at high rpm is nicer.

[RICK LAKE]

Cobra #3170 Sir have a older guy here in PA that has an OLD flow machine but seams to work great on the numbers.
My heads have had the following done
Spark plug hole moved .120" welded and helicoiled
Bottom of intake ports are filled
Top of intake ports are welded for more material and reshaped
The port job was CNCed to start.
The heads came with titanium valves but the wrong seats, not berillium ones
The jury is still out on titanium valves. Running a lighter valve spring will slow down the valve seat pounding.
Tubes in all the pushrod holes and can see them in the ports.
T&D shaft mounted setup. all machine work is done.
The last option is going to 5/16" or 8mm valves.
The heads are basicly done except for last line.
he next thing is crankshaft and connecting rods. Titanium is out. If I wanted to get crazy, honda 1.88 rods would be the way instead of 2.10 sbc rods.
Brent has is right with clearance in a shelby block. This doesn't mean I have giving up either on BME or GPR.
The last thing is looking into a piston sprayer setup like deisels.
Dry sump setup will be the oiling system with 100 psi spring. Got 15 years out of 2 rotating assemblies and no failures, the bearings are not damaged from high pressure flow. Stay with what works.
ERA sells an update for their rearend assemblies that better controls rearend from side movement and for and aft. Car needs a make over and paint repair, will add this in the winter.

Looking forward to seeing more autocross from you. Hope you had a nice Fathers day and breakfast in bed. Rick

[Cobra #3170]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

Cobra #3170 Sir have a older guy here in PA that has an OLD flow machine but seams to work great on the numbers.
My heads have had the following done
Spark plug hole moved .120" welded and helicoiled
Bottom of intake ports are filled
Top of intake ports are welded for more material and reshaped
The port job was CNCed to start.
The heads came with titanium valves but the wrong seats, not berillium ones
The jury is still out on titanium valves. Running a lighter valve spring will slow down the valve seat pounding.
Tubes in all the pushrod holes and can see them in the ports.
T&D shaft mounted setup. all machine work is done.
The last option is going to 5/16" or 8mm valves.
The heads are basicly done except for last line.
he next thing is crankshaft and connecting rods. Titanium is out. If I wanted to get crazy, honda 1.88 rods would be the way instead of 2.10 sbc rods.
Brent has is right with clearance in a shelby block. This doesn't mean I have giving up either on BME or GPR.
The last thing is looking into a piston sprayer setup like deisels.
Dry sump setup will be the oiling system with 100 psi spring. Got 15 years out of 2 rotating assemblies and no failures, the bearings are not damaged from high pressure flow. Stay with what works.
ERA sells an update for their rearend assemblies that better controls rearend from side movement and for and aft. Car needs a make over and paint repair, will add this in the winter.

Looking forward to seeing more autocross from you. Hope you had a nice Fathers day and breakfast in bed. Rick

I have piston sprayers and am happy with the results, my dry sump pressure never goes over 80 PSI no issues, at 2500 it is around 25 PSI hot IE red warning light comes on. So if I read you right those are your flow numbers, is your exhaust over 270? Edelbrock and not Blue Thunder heads, better numbers than I have ever seen from Edelbrock, nice going.