which intake manifold gasket for 427 SO?

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

With the total info available, any change in recs? thanx steve

Steve-just do it. Any questions, come back and ask.

[steve meltzer]

Thanx. I'm gettn' there...only rocker arms/push rods, and distributor to go. Got sidetracked, as is often the case, tryin' to get my speedometer straightened out (literally and figuratively) thanx again. s

[steve meltzer]

Hey ERA Charles, did you use the end cork gasket that come in the Fel-Pro kit, or just use the Ford sealant? Also, what is the torque setting for the rocker stands (billet aluminum on a shaft). Can't seem to find that anywhere. thanx steve

[blykins]

I would never advise using cork end gaskets. Use the sealant.

Rocker studs get around 30 lbft of torque.

When you get the intake on, stab the distributor in to make sure the intake is centered before you bolt it down.

[steve meltzer]

thanx so much for your VERY prompt reply. s

[steve meltzer]

And one more thing...why can't you put the sealant on the head side of the gasket, place the gasket and then set the intake down (no sealant on the intake side) to press the gasket in place, and leave it to dry for 12-24 hours? (I'm in no hurry.) This avoids a trip to Home Depot to buy and cut the garage door rails.

Then you'd return later, put sealant on the intake side, "bead" the ends, and set the intake once and for all. (Assuming you'd check the distibutor first in ensure a good, centered, fit.)

thanx. s

[mickmate]

45 ft/lbs for center ones if bolts, make them 30 for studs. End ones are only 15 ft/lbs

[blykins]

I don't use sealant on the head side, I actually glue them to the head with a tacky gasket sealant. This insures that they can't squirm around or move. I then use sealant on the gaskets and set the intake down.

[Barry_R]

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

And one more thing...why can't you put the sealant on the head side of the gasket, place the gasket and then set the intake down (no sealant on the intake side) to press the gasket in place, and leave it to dry for 12-24 hours? (I'm in no hurry.) This avoids a trip to Home Depot to buy and cut the garage door rails.

Then you'd return later, put sealant on the intake side, "bead" the ends, and set the intake once and for all. (Assuming you'd check the distibutor first in ensure a good, centered, fit.)

thanx. s

That's pretty much how I do it. I use the TA-31 in a super thin layer, place the gaskets, and use the intake as a holder/weight to let the silicone seal up. Silicone seals with air and humidity - thick layers will stay soft inside darn near forever...

The distributor is the locating dowel for my installations. It's about the toughest thing to relocate (we've done that too using sleeves to grab the seal when we've done evil things to deck heights and head locations...but its a real PITA)

[steve meltzer]

I can hardly wait! thanx. steve

[ERA Chas]

Sorry late to reply Steve. I use 35 lbft on my ARP rocker studs (with their lube) including the end stands.
Yes you can do as Barry does with the intake and he says what I said earlier about getting the dist correct. If you do that, I'd put some studs in place to keep both the gaskets and intake 'indexed' to the head. But I'd still do it with the clamps because I'm an amateur and help myself get pro results all I can.
The pros told you what works for them so you have plenty of good help.

[steve meltzer]

Just spoke with Lyle at Southern. They built my engine about 11 years ago. They stopped using the FelPro gaskets as they seem absorb oil and get "mushy". Anyone else with that experience? I just glued the FelPro to the heads yesterday. Any thoughts or comments here? Go ahead and finish the job or tear it out and put in a Mr. Gasket or Edelbrock? thanx again. steve

[ERA Chas]

STEVE!
Lyle's right-they were being attacked by the AF coolant and sukked. BUT;
11 years ago the 1247S-3's didn't exist! Thanks to Barry's input, FP created the compound used in these.
Don't over worry this; nobody steered you wrong!

[steve meltzer]

Hey Chas....thanx so much. I feel better...sorry I'm so obsessive! steve

[steve meltzer]

OK, one more thing...sorry. Any sealant on the distributor gasket/more like an O-ring, really? I doubt you'd put it on the distributor side, but how 'bout the intake side? thanx again. s

[Barry_R]

Just a bit of oil...

[steve meltzer]

Done! thanx. s

[steve meltzer]

OK, got the intake done, only to confirm my worst fear...there's also a leak from the rear main seal, and the fuel pump. I'm gonna pull the engine and start on that in the next day or so. I posted a question on the website about this. thanx for y'alls help. s

[tcabece427]

After reading this post, I believed that is what was happening with my 427 SO. At one point I went through 6 quarts of oil in 100 miles. I removed my Blue Thunder intake and noted wet oil between the heads and intake gasket. I have the Edelbrock heads and used their intake gasket.
Per this thread I purchased the Fel Pro 1247-S3 from Napa. I couldn't find the Victor Reinz ones anywhere. I also used the Motorcraft TA-31 from my local Ford Dealer.

The picture is of the gasket retaining tool I made. Just a 3" wide piece of steel from my local ACE hardware store. They even cut it to length.

Thanks for this post. My car runs great now and no more burning oil!
I did a few 390's back in the day, albeit with cast iron Ford heads. But never had this oil burning issue.

[IAMBUZMAN]

This is an old thread but it's helping me out.