Tell me all you can about your Top Loader.

[RACERAL]

Trying to figure out what all I need for a top loader to fit behind my FE, in a Factory 5 car with a 8.8 ass end

[MOTORHEAD]

Don't know much (as shown on my recent "popping outta gear" thread, but I do know this: love the close ratio !!! Makes you feel like Sterling Moss ( or insert favorite '60's pro here) on downshifts !!

[RACERAL]

Hey, I don't know squat either... But I thought the top loader was bullet proof.. I hate yours is popping out of gear

[Jac Mac]

Originally Posted by RACERAL

Hey, I don't know squat either... But I thought the top loader was bullet proof.. I hate yours is popping out of gear

No they are not bullet proof, but if you get the correct model you should be OK, depends on how much torque your engine makes, what tires you run and how sympathetic your driving is...usually an FE should have a 1 3/8" ten spline input & 31 spline tailshaft along with the 2.32/1 low gear close ratio gearset. If you do a lot of town stop/start driving with no competition stuff then you might find the wide ratio 2.78/1 low gearset an advantage especially if you have a tall rear end ratio . Use 80 weight straight gear oil ( NO EP or high load stuff ) and that's about it, oh and find out from Ted ( Motorhead) who built his trans and NEVER take yours there!!

[MOTORHEAD]

Al: with help from Jac Mac we found the problem was a simple mistake by whoever o'hauled the tranny last. It was rectified without having to remove tranny ! Other than that hiccup, it has been faultless!

Ted

[mdross1]

You most likely will never need the large input shaft top loader with small block car especially in a Cobra unless your running DOT slicks and fond of sidestepping the clutch near redline. Even then doubt very much you would ever hurt these top loaders.
These transmissions properly built and setup are one of the smoothest shifting you will ever find. Personally always used the Hurst Competition Plus shifters on all our muscle cars.
A 10.5" diaphragm clutch will work just fine set your car up for a clutch cable (personal preference over hydraulic)
We have a freshly rebuilt toploader if you cannot find one locally.

[66gtk]

Agreed on street cars that the WIDE ratio TL can prove to be better than the close ratio version - especially if you have less radical rear gearing. On the three cars I've owned with TLs, the wide ratio was much more enjoyable to use on the STREET - especially pulling out of stops and what-not in a reasonable manner with it's lower first gear.

[DanEC]

I agree - the WR toploader can just about eliminate the need for a 5 speed OD tranny. With a 3.31 rear mine just moves off by letting out the clutch without touching the accelerator. I think a 3.07 rear end with the WR and an FE would work fine. The rpm drop on upshifts would not be optimum for the dragstrip or road course but on the street you won't notice it in this light of a car.

[JWilly]

First gear and reverse are pretty close in the shift pattern. If you are into a lot of Interstate highway driving, a low ratio rear end should keep the RPM's under 3000 at highway speeds (and the noise level a bit lower).

[RACERAL]

The FE motor I have made something like 447 hp@5010rpm with 469ftlbtq........It has a very mild cam
The WR trans is the way I want to go.. yes, low 300 something gear.
Tell me about the lenght of the trans.. people are telling me the 27 inch long one is the one I want. Do you guys agree

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by RACERAL

The FE motor I have made something like 447 hp@5010rpm with 469ftlbtq........It has a very mild cam
The WR trans is the way I want to go.. yes, low 300 something gear.
Tell me about the lenght of the trans.. people are telling me the 27 inch long one is the one I want. Do you guys agree

From ERA, the Toploader had 3 more common tailshafts resulting in overall lengths of 24 in, 25.5 in and 27 in. You will probablly want either the 24 in or the 25.5 in length in order to have a little more driveshaft length and keep U-joint angles within reason. The 24 inch would be best but I think they are a bit hard to come by.

[RACERAL]

My last car the drive shaft was like 9.5 inches long

[Young1]

Raceral, with a 3.07 type gear WR is the only way to go. 24 inch tail shaft is the only way to go to gain driveshaft length. Mine has a Ford bellhousing with a Mcleod hydraulic throw out bearing. Easy peasy to remove and install. If I did it again I would go with a 3.07 and WR rather than the 3.31 I have. Get one from a reputable rebuilder. Southern Automotive in GA posts here and they fixed my bad third gear synchro issue. Less money than the Tremecs too.

[RACERAL]

Thanks Young 1 great info

[mickmate]

I agree with pretty much all above, original cars used a big in small out version of the TL. In decent shape they are a great tranny for these cars. If you're getting a used one look over the gears in the gears that get ripped through, pretty much the first 3. Since you're using an IRS you can use any length trans but you may need to shim mounts for driveshaft angle not to be too severe. Once that's set up the diff isn't moving so you're good.
Think about clutch type and set it up accordingly for your use. You don't want an on/off switch or a chatterer. Big clutch in a small car you can pretty much go stock.
Do a little research on throw out bearings. There are plenty of people that dislike the hydraulic internals and they'll tell you why. I like serviceable and adjustable external but it can be pretty close to our frame rails.

[Anthony]

390 ci mustangs and cougars used small in/out WR toploaders. I think Ford switched to the big spline when fairlane and galaxy drag racers were twisting input shafts. So a cobra, much lighter, running street tires I think would be fine for the most part with small spline Toploaders, especially if you buy the tranny already like that. If you are going to rebuild it, you can just change/increase the input shaft size cheaply without changing/increasing the output, as you then need to bore out the tail housing for the bigger shaft. If you are going to go all out, get the big in/out.

When looking at a used toploader, always inspect the insides. Obviously look for chipped teeth, but more importantly look at the small synchro teeth. Usually, they are prominent on first gear, and compare those teeth to the synchro teeth on second and third gears. If they are considerably worn or chipped, then those gears will need to be replaced even though the large teeth look fine.

Long ago at a swap meet, I was looking at a used big in/out toploader, along with another potential customer, peering into the case, and the owner told us the tranny ran fine, no shifting problems, etc. However, the synchro teeth on second and third gears were worn such that they were about 25% of the size of the teeth on 1st gear. I told the other customer these gears were worn and needed replaced, and the owner got real upset with me. LOL.

As far as gearing, like others here, if you go with a CR tranny, use 3.54 rears or something close. If you go with a WR tranny, go with 3.07 rears or something close. You won't be disappointed.

[Bernica]

Originally Posted by DanEC

I agree - the WR toploader can just about eliminate the need for a 5 speed OD tranny. With a 3.31 rear mine just moves off by letting out the clutch without touching the accelerator. I think a 3.07 rear end with the WR and an FE would work fine. The rpm drop on upshifts would not be optimum for the dragstrip or road course but on the street you won't notice it in this light of a car.

Running same setup as Dan. WR TL by Dave Kee and 3:31 at the rear. Lovin' the setup.