FE Release Throw out Bearings

[Cobra #3170]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Glad to help.
Some detail on the seal job please; did you just pull the rear main and push the seal around the top or remove the whole crank?

I solved my rear main leak problem I have a drip pan in the trailer and another in my garage Agree on throwout bearing "if it ain't broke.........

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by Cobra #3170

I solved my rear main leak problem I have a drip pan in the trailer and another in my garage Agree on throwout bearing "if it ain't broke.........

Bruce,
Do you have a vacuum pump on that monster and if so, does the reduced crankcase pressure also reduce the rear main leak?

[Cobra #3170]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Bruce,
Do you have a vacuum pump on that monster and if so, does the reduced crankcase pressure also reduce the rear main leak?

Chas,

My Dailey dry sump pump pulls 13" of vacuum when the engine is running so it does not leak. The dry sump tank is mounted in the trunk so it is higher than the pan and most of the oil drains back to the pan over time when not running. This puts more pressure on the rear main seal since it is submerged in oil.

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by Cobra #3170

Chas,

My Dailey dry sump pump pulls 13" of vacuum when the engine is running so it does not leak. The dry sump tank is mounted in the trunk so it is higher than the pan and most of the oil drains back to the pan over time when not running. This puts more pressure on the rear main seal since it is submerged in oil.

Great solution that kills two birds; great oiling and little crankcase pressure.
My last hoped-for project was going to be a Moroso vacuum pump but I wasn't smart enough to figure it; space for the pump, drive system, etc.
Always wanted vacuum for ring seal and all the other benefits.
Dry sump would have been nice too but again, logistics weren't good. Plus I didn't really need it at only 550HP.

[RICK LAKE]

Cobra #3170 Can you install 2, 3/4- 1" ball valves to keep the oil in the tank when the motor is not running? This should stop drain back and help with no dry cranking on startup. Just a thought?? Rick L.

[steve meltzer]

My friend, who's a professional mechanic, did much of the work, but we pulled the rear main cap, of course, replaced all of the seals and used the gray Ford silicone liberally. (smeared carefully where the "wedge" that holds the bearing lives, along the inside edge of the case) Didn't pull the crank. s

[Rick Bagley]

I have used the McLeod Bearing for about 12 years. Put new o rings in and keep it. If it's working fine why change. As for hot new slave cylinders, someone is going to have to prove that one to me.

[RICK LAKE]

Steve Meltzer Steve if you look back at old threads, KIrkham made a setup with a slave cylinder on the outside of a lakewood bell housing or quicktime. They welded a plate to mount the slave and a custom fork There where pictures of it. I have them on another computor that died and can't retreive them. I got the pictures from here or FE forumn. It's the only 2 places I go for info. I think the question was, Would the modifications void the warrantty of the bellhousing by welding to it? Try and google custom bellhousing clutch fork setup. It may come up or call Dave K. Good luck Rick L.