FE Release Throw out Bearings

[steve meltzer]

I have an early Kirkham, #174. 427 SO, big spline top loader, Lakewood bell housing. When my friend and I built the car long ago, we tried every possible way to use a slave cylinder and a clutch arm driving the T/O bearing, but no setup we tried really worked well. Ultimately, I bought a McLeod hydraulic bearing and have been very happy ever since. However, with the engine out to fix the leaky rear main seal (done, BTW!) I hear that the hot new setup is either Kirkham's slave cylinder, fork, etc kit or sourced similar items from Ford, et al. Any advice here? Should I replace my very acceptable, non-leaking hydraulic release bearing in favor of the new setup or what? thanx. steve

[ERA Chas]

Leave well enough alone.
More importantly, what's the answer about the leaked oil???

[steve meltzer]

Chas...I've identified 4 leaks, all of which I believe I've fixed. Both front and rear of the intake (Southern used the inserts instead of just silicone), fuel pump and the rear main seal. Whew! Will put the pan sandwich on next weekend and then put it back in the car. So nice having the engine on the stand and doing the work there. Thanx for all of your help! steve

[ERA Chas]

Glad to help.
Some detail on the seal job please; did you just pull the rear main and push the seal around the top or remove the whole crank?

[Cobra #3170]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Glad to help.
Some detail on the seal job please; did you just pull the rear main and push the seal around the top or remove the whole crank?

I solved my rear main leak problem I have a drip pan in the trailer and another in my garage Agree on throwout bearing "if it ain't broke.........

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by Cobra #3170

I solved my rear main leak problem I have a drip pan in the trailer and another in my garage Agree on throwout bearing "if it ain't broke.........

Bruce,
Do you have a vacuum pump on that monster and if so, does the reduced crankcase pressure also reduce the rear main leak?

[steve meltzer]

My friend, who's a professional mechanic, did much of the work, but we pulled the rear main cap, of course, replaced all of the seals and used the gray Ford silicone liberally. (smeared carefully where the "wedge" that holds the bearing lives, along the inside edge of the case) Didn't pull the crank. s

[Cobra #3170]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Bruce,
Do you have a vacuum pump on that monster and if so, does the reduced crankcase pressure also reduce the rear main leak?

Chas,

My Dailey dry sump pump pulls 13" of vacuum when the engine is running so it does not leak. The dry sump tank is mounted in the trunk so it is higher than the pan and most of the oil drains back to the pan over time when not running. This puts more pressure on the rear main seal since it is submerged in oil.

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by Cobra #3170

Chas,

My Dailey dry sump pump pulls 13" of vacuum when the engine is running so it does not leak. The dry sump tank is mounted in the trunk so it is higher than the pan and most of the oil drains back to the pan over time when not running. This puts more pressure on the rear main seal since it is submerged in oil.

Great solution that kills two birds; great oiling and little crankcase pressure.
My last hoped-for project was going to be a Moroso vacuum pump but I wasn't smart enough to figure it; space for the pump, drive system, etc.
Always wanted vacuum for ring seal and all the other benefits.
Dry sump would have been nice too but again, logistics weren't good. Plus I didn't really need it at only 550HP.

[RICK LAKE]

Cobra #3170 Can you install 2, 3/4- 1" ball valves to keep the oil in the tank when the motor is not running? This should stop drain back and help with no dry cranking on startup. Just a thought?? Rick L.

[Jerry Clayton]

If you would vent the crankcase vacume to atmosphere when you shut down it won't suck the oil out of the tank into the pan----

[Jerry Clayton]

I know that the thread was hi jacked from one about throw out bearings, however, I sorta expected that someone would comment about my statement???????

[RICK LAKE]

Jerry Clayton Jerry Drain back is drain back, unless you have a ball valve to block it. If the oil tank sits higher than the dry sump oil pump or oil pan until both levels are the same height fluids want out to lowest. Check valve with one way will work the same way, have 2 on my fuel system. Rick L. Ps after the motor sits for a couple of minutes the vacuum should be gone in the crankcase unless you have one hell of a sealed motor.

[Jerry Clayton]

Rick-hes got a motor sealed good enough for 13 inches vaccume-----------and if the oil is leaking back thru his pumps with no vacume then he has aone or more bad pumps with too much clearance somewhere========or some basic plumbing errors

[Rick Bagley]

I have used the McLeod Bearing for about 12 years. Put new o rings in and keep it. If it's working fine why change. As for hot new slave cylinders, someone is going to have to prove that one to me.

[RICK LAKE]

Steve Meltzer Steve if you look back at old threads, KIrkham made a setup with a slave cylinder on the outside of a lakewood bell housing or quicktime. They welded a plate to mount the slave and a custom fork There where pictures of it. I have them on another computor that died and can't retreive them. I got the pictures from here or FE forumn. It's the only 2 places I go for info. I think the question was, Would the modifications void the warrantty of the bellhousing by welding to it? Try and google custom bellhousing clutch fork setup. It may come up or call Dave K. Good luck Rick L.

[lovehamr]

The Kirkhams got the idea after buying one of Mike Forte's set-ups, of which he sells quite a few versions. I'm using one of his as well.
Hydraulic External Slave For Steel Bellhousing

[RICK LAKE]

I know someone else remember this. It looks like a great setup. Rick L.

[undy]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

I know someone else remember this. It looks like a great setup. Rick L.

Darn Rick, shortest post I've ever seen you make!!