445 Build

[RICK LAKE]

Mark M You gave us some BROAD basics. Little more info needed for this camshaft. What heads are we running and how much machine work is being done to them? Compression ratio? To get to 6,200 rpms need stronger valve springs, roller rockers, oiling modes. Are you looking for a torque motor or HP? What kind of idle quality do you want? Lopping, smooth, little clicking? What exhaust are we looking at? Headers, yes the biggest thing is the mufflers. Street quiet or rattle the windows? Fuel injection or carb?
By advancing or retarding the camshaft you can move the power around about 400 rpm higher or lower.
A big issue today is the poor engine oils we have and the lack of protection and lubing of parts. A roller lifter of solid or hydro would be a better choice. IMO the days of non rollers are gone.
Here what I have run over the years, 452 FE motor with stage 2 head work. 9.2 compression and a crane 501-533" hydro tappet camshaft. The motor was to have a blower on it but space under the hood was a problem and belts popping off. Ran this setup for 8 years. No problems except or 2 cracked rocker shafts. Power on the dyno. 348hp 448 torque. Could pull stumps out of the ground. camshaft maxed out at 5,800 rpms. Lifters pumped up at this rpm and valve float would happen. I run am HVHP oil pump with high oil pressures. I setup the valve lash with these anti pumpup lifters with .010" to .015" valve lash. I could run the motor to 6,200 with out a major power drop and having the valves float and hit the pistons. I also run beehive springs from a BBC. Very happy with them over the years. They lost about 15 pounds of pressure at max lift. They did make the motor rev a little quicker. Camshaft was retared 8 degrees for this motor. I build torque motors.
Same block with stroker kit. 482 motor with 10.0 compression. Same heads but running a hydro roller camshaft, .586"-.607" lift. 480 hp and 568 ft of torque. all this power in by 6,000 rpm. With roller lifters pumped up at higher rpms have to watch the valve spring coil bind. I am safe with .090". Crane wants .100". I know guys running at .060" but have broken valve springs from either running to tight or over revving and hitting a rev limiter. If you have to hit 6,200 rpms need a camshaft and valve springs to handle this range. Bigger camshaft and heavier valve springs. Going to need a good rocker shaft with support ends assemblies and complete roller rockers. Roller tips at the minium. Erson went out of business. Best setup for the price range they where selling. T&D or Jessel would be my pick. The heads might need to be machined to handle jessels.
Something to think about, the higher you rev this motor the shorter the life span. I am a big block FE fan. I think this motor looks correct in a cobra. Small blocks look correct in a FIA cobra or one with wire wheels. Fe motor cost about 1/3 to 1/2 more and building a small block or going to a mod motor. Building a hydro roller camsaft motor will give you many years of fun and just basic maintainance. Running a roller camshaft with upto a .600" lift and 1.75 rocker arm ratio will give you the best of both worlds. MY 482 has just a little lope and has between 12-13.5 hg of vacuum. I run street mufflers that kill about 30 hp. The pipes are quieter than my race pipes. Wear ear plug in left ear when cruising. If you goggle FE build ups you will find a couple. They give real good power and are dependable. Side notes, 1 get an HVHP oil pump and canton oil pan that holds 6-7 quarts. windage tray is optional. You want 30-35 psi oil pressure at idle hot. Don't let this motor idle for long periods of time. Most of the the guys run a 60 pound pressure spring. I run a 100# spring. If you can get an 80# one this would be good. Oiling modes. very one limits the oil to the rockers and valve springs with a .060" oriface in the supply port of the head. In my motor I run .080" and have no problems. Remember you need oiling to cool the valve springs as well and lube the rocker shafts. Last but also important, choice is yours on running an oil cooler in the front of the car. Add a thermostat to help get the oil to working temp. Running without one the oil has a tough time getting to temp. Oil I run is 15-40 rotella. Last option is adding an accusump to prelube the motor before starting. 90% of the wear is on cranking before the motor starts and runs. Dry is dry. I use 1 quart of lucas oil suppliment. It clings to the motor parts and reduces dry starts after the motor has been sitting for some time. Must mix this slowly into the engine oil when it's hot to get best protection. Accusump, I autocross and road race. Pulling high "g" turns this help keeping the oil pressure up anbd stable. preoiling also helps starting with having 30 psi before cranking and gives you an extra 1,2,or 3 quarts of extra oil for the motor. Over time you will get the bug to autocross or track run the car. This will help save the motor. You may fine that the 3.50 gears are too much. Your car will only weight about 2,800 pounds. You didn't give us the trans gear ratios either. I run both a 6 spd and 5 spd trannies. Most of the time I never startout in 1st. With the bottom end torque these motors make you may goto a 3.00 gear. Good luck, looking forward to read on the build. Rick L.