Hi torque mini starter motor on FE428

[KevinW]

I have one of the above which needs mounting properly, i.e. with shims to make sure it meshes with the flywheel reliably.

I am running a Lakewood bellhousing mounted to a toploader.

Anyone got any top tips before i attempt this, as I foresee a lot of gnashing of teeth if Im unprepared.

[rcobra427]

Why does it need shims? I have one one my 428 and it just bolts right in place of the original starter. No shims, but it's a stock bell housing. Best 120 bucks I ever spent on the car, too.

[lippy]

Not sure why you would need shims. Check the extension of the starter gear, measured from the flange of the starter. Make sure it engages at least 1/3 (preferably 1/2) of the thickness of the flywheel. It should. Then just clock the motor on the starter so it is in a good position and bolt it on.

[Tim Brewer]

Generally, a ford does not need shims. But Chevys, that's a different story.

[KevinW]

OK, thats really helpful, thanks.
The installation leaflet talks about checking 'lash' etc which i wasnt sure about, and i heard about one that wasn't installed right and chewed the flywheel teeth.
Anyway, i'm better prepared now.

[RICK LAKE]

KevinW It's not a simple cut and dry installation with Lake wood. Kevin first off you have to center the bellhousing on the back of the block.
Once you get the bell housing centered, does for bellhousing have a block protector?? If YES you are about .275" to far away from your flywheel. This applies to almost all mini starters. Yes you will chew up the teeth on both the flywheel and the bendix on the starter. You have 3 choices now.
#1 remove the block plate and run without. Need to measure the depth of the trans input shaft to the tip, then measure the depth of the surface of the bellhousing on the block to the bottom of the crank shaft and pilot bushing or pilot bearing. If there is not enough clearance the trans input shaft will push the crankshaft in the block and tearup the thrustbearing surface and you will destroy the crankshaft, bearing and possibly the block. This is they important things to check. If this works you will have almost complete teeth to teeth contact across both. I don't like this if you are going to race to high revs on the motor.I have seen clutch parts come out through the starter hole after blowing it out.Damage to the block also.
#2 Cut the block plate just where the starter goes into and clear it so it bolts directly to the bellhousing. I have done my setups this way and have had 1 disc blow. everything stayed inside the bellhousing like it should.
#3 take the starter to a machine shop and have them mill off .250" at the mounting plate where it sits against the bellhousing.
I worn out to bendix on a tilton mini starter from this problem.
Couple of side notes. you want a .035" .55" clearance between the teeth when they are engaged at the bottom of the tooth on the flywheel. This will exstend thge life of the unit.
Allen head bolts. On shelby blocks the clearance is tight. A small washer on an allen head bolt is the easiest way to install the starter. ONE, small drop of loc-tite on the bolt blue or green, NO red.
Good luck make sure the measurments are correct. Rick L. from the other side of the pond.

[KevinW]

Thanks Rick.
Bellhousing should have been dialled in by the engine builder via offset dowels, so that should be OK, as I certainly paid him for that.
I think there is a block plate in there, and i dont fancy pulling the engine out.

I saw the video on youtube which shows painting the bendix and then seeing the results from meshing with the flywheel. I'll check this first. Seems to me the easiest solution is to mill the mount for the starter, assuming it doest line up nicely after the 'paint test'.

>you want a .035" .55" clearance between the teeth
-Im guessing thats 0.035 - 0.055"?

- mine is a standard Ford FE pig iron block, not the shelby product!

[RICK LAKE]

KevinW Kevin you have to correct specs. .035-.055". Brain to hand issues in the morning. Have been told you have more room with a FE ford block. My shelby motor is more like a old 426 Donovan block from the 60's for funny and top fueler cars. I have not seen the utube movie but sure it should be OK to copy the repair.
I installed my backing plate centered on the block and bolted it down. Installed the starter and just used the soleniod to engage the bendix without turning the motor. I larger paperclip is .035" thick and perfect for the test. Mechanic wire would be ok to if it's thick enough.
THis whole setup was a pain in the butt. I did it in the car. The only good thing is the tunnel in ERA cars come out. Trans comes out from the inside of the car too. Couple of moving blanets to protect insides.
Good luck. When you get done with the repair do a couple of crankings. without the motor running. The engagement should be quiet and well as disengagement. If you cann't get the correct clearance you may have to move the bellhousing around a little. I think the spec is max of .010" off center before wear and problems can happen. Ps Kevin I am sure your mechanic is a good guy but over the years have come to fine that some guys cut corners on getting their product out to get payed. I would recommend you check the bell for being centered off the flywheel. need a magnetic base and dial indicator. It's a pain but you have piece of mind if OK. What if it's not??? I have been a mechanic for 3/4 my life and have seen just about every trick pulled and done to customers. The motor builders game is the worse. IMO more motors fail from wrong buildups than from customers abuse in the first 500 miles. Go on here and look up Jack Rousch motors and how many failures and problems getting them repaired. I big problem was camshafts eating distributor gears and leaving a pile of metal in the bottom of the motor. I good machinist needs 50-80 hours for a complete buildup top to bottom. My 484 motor, just doing the stretch test for the ARP bolts for 8 rods to 3.5 hours to do with 3 tightening and loosening the bolts to get to .006" stretch on the rod caliper. It's the double and triple checking that has to be done and in most cases is not. Here the failure. PRIDE is what I want in his work not a smile or lets get a drink friendship. You pay and want your moneys worth. Good luck. Have a good day. Rick L. Ps FE iron pig, BBC and Caddie motors weight more, I guess they are hippos. Shelby block in the beginning where crap too with bad machine work and alot of out of location problems and holes not being threaded to the bottom for head studs. Distributor hole off center to match up on camshaft gear. Some blocks where machine out and a sleeve was installed to center. The list goes on. Reason for buying a shelby block, too hard to fine a good 427SO block to be original. Good thing, weight saved between iron and all aluminum 200+ pounds. MY motor dry weight is 496 pounds. ONly assembly lube. No dampener or flywheel. This is small block weight in iron. I can say that my ERA is a pig in weight at 2705 without my fat a$$ in the seat and 1/2 tank of fuel. Most solid car I have been in drivin and raced. 14+ year and still no noise from lifting it at a corner. Not the fastest but always in the hunt. Rick