1963 1/2 Ford 427 Timing question

[Automan]

Hi Everyone, I just put in a 282 competition cam into my ford 427 63 1/2 center oilier. Looking at what my timing should be at. Im finding that she is running hotter then what it should be. Above the 200 degree mark. Also put in a new Puller fan to help cool it. What temp should i have it to turn on. Right now its in the 190-200 range on turning on.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

thankyou
Nelson

[undy]

+/- 16-18 deg BTDC.

190 deg is good.

[Automan]

Thankyou, is that at idle for 16-18 degree or at higher RPM

[DanEC]

I anticipate he means initial timing which is all that would show at idle. But - it also depends on how your distributor is set up. My 427 dual point distributor provides 22 degrees centrifugal advance at the crank - so I run 14 to 15 degrees initial timing for a total of 36 to 37. I could go up a bit more with my modest compression motor but that's where it is for now. If you don't know the advance curve in your distributor then you should have it checked on a Sun machine or use a dial back timing light to time it so you don't end up with too much total advance.

[undy]

Originally Posted by Automan

Thankyou, is that at idle for 16-18 degree or at higher RPM

idle.

[Automan]

Wow, im way off. Currently i am at 10 degrees. So would my engine run cooler then when i increase my timing?

Also, my distributor has two ports for vacuum but currently not running them. Never could get the engine to run well with them hooked up.

[DanEC]

Your timing is not way off - at least it's on the right side of TDC But a little more timing at idle will smooth it out some and should cool it down. You can get there either through more initial timing (as long as total initial and centrifugal advance don't exceed 36 to 38 deg) or run vacuum advance to a full time vacuum connection on your carb (not ported vacuum).

From the description of the distributor (two vacuum ports) it sounds like a later 60s model smog distributor. They had some crazy stuff back then - I think it brought in vacuum advance in some situations and then the other port took it back out in others - definitely not good for performance.

So in short - I would forget the vacuum advance and get a dial back timing light and check your total of initial and centrifugal advance and see what it is. If the total is only about 32 or 33 degrees then you can safely crank in another 4 or 5 degrees of initial timing. However, if this is a smog distributor it probably has a lot of centrifugal advance built in it and 10 deg may be all you can time it for. In that case I would find another distributor or get someone to re-curve yours for you. I know someone who can do that if you want to send it to him.

[DanEC]

Here's the guy who can custom tune your Ford distributor. Tims a real nice guy and did great work on mine.

Tim O'Connor Distributor Rebuilding and Restoration - Home

[Clois Harlan]

I think everyone here is on the right track. I have the same engine and cam as you but I am running some other things to help it out a bit. Heads, Intake, ROller rockers, solid lifters, etc.

I run about 37 degree all in timing and I don't run hot but I am only bored .015 over stock (I left a little room for another complete rebuild down the road). Also, start your engine and crack the front of your intake manifold just behind your thermostat and crack that fitting and allow all your air to purge once your engine gets up to temp.

[Automan]

So you think i might still have air in the system. I have noticed since the rebuild, only 20 miles on since the rebuild, that the rad cap is still venting hours after running it.

[DanEC]

I have heard that FEs are hard to bleed all the air out of the cooling system. It's possible you could still have some air in there. I have not experienced that problem but I did take ERA's advise and drill a small hole in the thermostat and orient it at the top.