Brass Bushing or Roller Bearing?

[HoodR1]

Hi guys,

I am putting a TKO-600 behind my 390 FE in my 67 Mustang. Lots of the sites that sell these parts say I should go with a roller type pilot bearing. When I ordered my clutch kit from Modern Driveline, they sent me the brass bushing.

What are your thoughts among those of you have done this swap in your Cobra cars?

Any thoughts, part numbers and sources would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Rick

Miller, Missouri

[DanEC]

I would check the website for Tremec or call their tech line. The older transmission were all fine with a bushing because their front bearing was a ball bearing and alignment was not as critical. I think some of the newer transmissions recommend a roller pilot bearing and have less tolerance for misalignment.

[blykins]

Originally Posted by HoodR1

Hi guys,

I am putting a TKO-600 behind my 390 FE in my 67 Mustang. Lots of the sites that sell these parts say I should go with a roller type pilot bearing. When I ordered my clutch kit from Modern Driveline, they sent me the brass bushing.

What are your thoughts among those of you have done this swap in your Cobra cars?

Any thoughts, part numbers and sources would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Rick

Miller, Missouri

Basically, it all depends on the clutch disc material. If it's an organic or similar, then a bushing will work fine. If it's highly aggressive, like sintered iron, etc., then you need a bearing. The dust from the aggressive discs can get into a bushing and cause wear.

[RTC45]

I am running a Teflon type bushing on a TKO 600/347 motor seems to be fine. Try s
Summit or JEGS

[1985 CCX]

I used brass.

[sllib]

The way it was explained to me is, when it's time to go, the bushing slowly wears out; the bearing fails. Take your pick.
Bill

[redmt]

I have never seen a catastrophic failure on a brass bushing. When a bearing starts to fail it will cause shifting problems . The bearing hangs up and wont let the input shaft spin freely when clutch is disengaged. Your choice on how often you want to pull the trans for a 10 buck part.

[RICK LAKE]

hoodR1 Rick it's more important That the bell housing be centered on the block. DON'T take their word for this. IF this is not done you are looking at possible major damage to motor and trans. I pilot bearing can't offset this problem.
2 small notes, have sure you measure the input shaft length the then the distance from outter bellhousing surface to bottom of crank and pilot bearing. IF you don't and the trans input is pushing against the polit bearing you will wearout the thrust bearing one one side that centers the crank in the block.
Last note, take your time and check everything twice. Both Lakewood, ( major adjusting) and Quicktime( smaller adjustments) need to be centered.
Good luck with build. Make sure the starter has enough engagement on flywheel or this will be the next problem you will face. See thread with Large Arbor with starter problems and prewearing out the bendix drive teeth. Good luck Rick L.

[elmariachi]

Rick is right, ahead of whether its a bearing or bushing, the bellhousing needs to be dialed in as close to 0 as possible. When I built my Hurricane I started with a brass bushing and it seemed a tad resistant to fast shifting. I had the engine/trans apart at 1500 miles to fix a rear main leak and decided to install a roller bearing. With no other changes it made an enormous difference in terms of smooth shifting. My notes show Federal Mogul 303SS. Check that before taking my word for it.

Jim