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Just found this online on the Autozone site.
Wont let me post the pic...WTF? Just keeps telling upload failed. Size is 77 kb |
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The lube is because of dissimilar metals. A steel fastener will gall aluminum threads.
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BT Manifold
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Yes Patrick,
That is my beast for sure...firing order an all |
I use anti-seize lubricant on any bolt or spark plug that goes into aluminum - as well as on all the contact areas between KO hubs and KO wheels. IMO I would use it instead of oil.
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I usually use never seize, ARP lube, etc.
On spark plugs, most of your racing plugs are already lubricated. Your street plugs are not and I have been using a drop of oil on the threads. The never seize or similar works perfectly fine, but it can make reading the plug a little more difficult. |
What is the reason, galling on install or as a corrosion preventive because of the dissimilar metals...so it does not seize in the threads. I would also think the oil would not stay there very long after a few heat/cool cycles, especially on the plugs. On plugs I think I used the nickel anti seize and very sparingly, nothing near the side or center electrode of course.
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In my opinion both are a concern with a steel bolt threaded into an aluminum part. But for most of these cars that haven't been bolted together for 20 or 30 years - galling is probably the biggest concern. In addition to using anti-seize on any bolt into aluminum I have another rule of my own, which is never to remove a sparkplug or other torqued fastener in aluminum on a hot engine. I'm sure people do it all the time and manage to get away with it but I think that is how most plug holes get stripped in aluminum cylinder heads.
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Here is the torque sequence from the Edelbrock website:
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awesome pic, I just saved it and got rid of the 2 blurry versions I found.
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The point is, they stress only on COLD ENGINE!!!! |
Oh I know - a few years ago I changed out the blower pulley and tune on my 03 Lightning with a modular motor and I was required to put in a colder plug. It took me two days, off and on, to change all 8 plugs. Fortunately I didn't break any either and I made sure to apply a complete coating of anti-seize on the threads of all the new ones. The back cylinders were back under the cowl and out of sight - I tied the coil pack screws to my finger with a piece of thread because I knew if I ever fumbled one back there I would have no chance of ever finding and retrieving it.:eek:
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I hope an 03 Lightning is diff than my 05 stang 3 valve 4.6. The only place you put the nickel anti seize is on the shielding ONLY which is about 1" long, you stop at the beginning of the threads. i will attach the PDF. I guess not, it exceeded the limit of 39KB. This file is 498 KB. Google FORD tsb08-07-06 Do you know when removing them, if you exceed 33 ft lbs you are definitely breaking the plug if your lucky, if your not, you strip out the threads in the head. They sell specialty kits for both situations!!! Guess that has been done plenty of times Hey, I managed to Hi-jack my own thread...LOL |
They are a bit different - 2V steel heads. They relied on the blower for power rather than the heads. They were known for spark plug thread stripping up through 2002 after which they increased the thread count to 8 from 4 for the plugs. So far mine have been good.
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[quote=davids2toys;1392893]...why no lock washers?
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-...revisited.html http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-...k-washers.html |
I think I torqued mine (Edelbrock) to 35 lbs. I removed the carbs to get to the bolts. It gave me the opportunity to replace gaskets and install the carb linkage wrong, but that's another story on another thread. I used the TA-31 and it sealed up tight.
Phil |
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