Change them all for Allens

Thanks Phil.

Yes, if I had those abilities, we would not be talking about it would we:D

Maybe this sort of spanner will help:

Snap ON FRDH121 Torque Wrench Adapter 3 8" Drive 3 8" Made IN USA | eBay

Gary

Good thought, but still would not be able to torque them.

I can get on both of them with these:

6 PC SAE Flex Socket and Open Wrench Set Standard Automotive Shop Unique Tools | eBay

I bought these from e-bay last night.

still wont be able to torque though. As I said earlier, I borrowed one from a friend and it does work. I tried to match effort to one of the bolts that I torqued to 20 lbs, without a cheater bar, it wont move. no leverage and awkward position.
I really don't want to go there.

No Gary, way to long. That is the same as what Ted posted

Sorry, just trying to help. I have been to Snap-On and MAC tools guys with what I thought was impossible and they came up with something. Worth a try anyways...

that might be a path, but that would be a last resort. Sounds expensive

Stick a wrench on that thing and pull on it. You're not going to break anything with a 9/16" wrench, I promise. Shouldn't take 5 days to tighten an intake bolt.... ;)

Just use a stubby. If you can strip the threads on your manifold, using a stubby, bending down and over a Cobra's fender well, then we'll send you to the Olympics.:cool:

You could replace them with allen head bolts as suggested above. They make allen head socket sets in 3/8 inch drive. If you have a 1/2 torque wrench you can use an adaptor. At 25 lb ft the adaptor will not make any difference.

But, I'm kind of with Blykins - just snug it up with what ever will fit on it.

Exactly right.

A normal length spanner that is, none of the current long ring spanners.
I've seen some cause a world of hurt with these. :LOL:

Brent: First of all, I have not been near the car for over a week. I try and have a clear path of remedying a situation before I go further. When I rush things, I end up in trouble! Besides that, I have a lot of other stuff going on in my life than just my Cobra. In fact I have not driven it yet this year. House projects and recovering from knee surgery 4 weeks ago.
To be clear. I cannot get any kind of wrench on these two bolts. Except that flex socket/open end combo, that will go on. Again, I do not have your experience or touch. I don't trust my feel like you trust yours. I believe in Torquing and it has kept me out of trouble. when I start just tightening things, I tend to over do it...I have broken a couple of things in the past and I do not want any repeat performances...so yes, I am a little anal.
9/16? Not really sure what you mean here...my bolts are 3/8 not 9/16. Or are you saying to use the 9/16 over a stubby as a cheater bar for leverage?
If the fuel log was not there, I would have no issue. My old cobra had no fuel log and I was able re-toque that manifold. When I get back to it, I will probably just pull the carb, then I can work on it from another angle.
Today I found a 1/4" drive, very short open 12 pt crows foot, I think they would call this a flare. Same as this only 1/4" drive: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1907565...2F190756544479
I would be stepping up to adapt to my 3/8 drive torque wrench. Do you think the 3/8' drive to 1/4' drive adapter will hold up at 25 ft lbs? How about the open 12 point crows foot

Dan: as I said earlier, converting to Allens won't help anything. It would be the exact same issue as I have now. I have no room for adapters or Torque wrenches on these two bolts. they are to close to the intake runners! All the allens would let me do is stick a 90 deg allen wrench in it. Now were just pulling on it and hoping for the best. I am sure it would not be tight enough anyway. Again, maybe if the carb was off, things would be better, but it would still be far from a straight shot, Maybe with one of those universal sockets.

Patrick: I am not worried about stripping the threads in the intake. I think you mean the heads right? Anyway, if I was only using a stubby as you say, it would not be possible and it would not be tight enough. I want to do it right using a torque wrench or a method to achieve the called out Torque. I do not like or trust the "Good n Tight" method!

David,

I think you would snap a 3/8 to 1/4 adaptor before you got to 25 lbft.

Are you able to post a pic of the area you are trying to get into?

Gary

Yes, that was my concern also.

I took a few shots. The one that shows it the best is in the black hole, so you cant see the head of the fastener. That is the forward hole. A couple of these pics look like there is more room than there actually is. The pic showing the whole side, the fasteners are the ones behind the fuel bowl lines

Boy, those are tight. Mine were nothing compared to that. I think I only needed the crow's foot on one of them. Two at the most.%/

Thank you!
I guess I should have post pics in the first place.

In the past I've cut down a 3/8" socket to make it as short as possible and used it with either a swivel extension or a universal joint type extension. If that could work you wouldn't be able to get a torque wrench reading but you could measure the travel, as I outlined in my prior post.

Understood. If I am going to do it this way, I will just use the 3/8 flex sock/open end combo I ordered and measure the movement. I will have to put a cheater bar over the end to gain leverage.
I also assume you are marking the bolt to the manifold to measure movement right?

Nope, I don't mark the bolts. I just eyeball the travel of the wrench.