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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2016, 04:06 PM
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Just found this online on the Autozone site.
Wont let me post the pic...WTF? Just keeps telling upload failed. Size is 77 kb
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2016, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davids2toys View Post
Patrick,
Is your manifold marked anywhere. If yes, what and where.

Thanks all...Dave
Just the firing order. I think the BT piece is made to look like an old style manifold because it looks like ones I've seen over the last forty years at different swap meets.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2016, 06:24 PM
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The lube is because of dissimilar metals. A steel fastener will gall aluminum threads.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2016, 06:26 PM
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Default BT Manifold

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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2016, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by blykins View Post
The lube is because of dissimilar metals. A steel fastener will gall aluminum threads.
So what should you use for lube, just oil?
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 05-29-2016, 06:37 PM
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Yes Patrick,
That is my beast for sure...firing order an all
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2016, 03:43 AM
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I use anti-seize lubricant on any bolt or spark plug that goes into aluminum - as well as on all the contact areas between KO hubs and KO wheels. IMO I would use it instead of oil.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2016, 05:04 AM
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I usually use never seize, ARP lube, etc.

On spark plugs, most of your racing plugs are already lubricated. Your street plugs are not and I have been using a drop of oil on the threads. The never seize or similar works perfectly fine, but it can make reading the plug a little more difficult.
cobra likes this.
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Old 05-30-2016, 09:47 AM
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What is the reason, galling on install or as a corrosion preventive because of the dissimilar metals...so it does not seize in the threads. I would also think the oil would not stay there very long after a few heat/cool cycles, especially on the plugs. On plugs I think I used the nickel anti seize and very sparingly, nothing near the side or center electrode of course.
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Old 05-30-2016, 11:04 AM
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In my opinion both are a concern with a steel bolt threaded into an aluminum part. But for most of these cars that haven't been bolted together for 20 or 30 years - galling is probably the biggest concern. In addition to using anti-seize on any bolt into aluminum I have another rule of my own, which is never to remove a sparkplug or other torqued fastener in aluminum on a hot engine. I'm sure people do it all the time and manage to get away with it but I think that is how most plug holes get stripped in aluminum cylinder heads.
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Old 05-30-2016, 11:46 AM
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Here is the torque sequence from the Edelbrock website:
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2016, 12:45 PM
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awesome pic, I just saved it and got rid of the 2 blurry versions I found.
Thanks
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 05-30-2016, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
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In my opinion both are a concern with a steel bolt threaded into an aluminum part. But for most of these cars that haven't been bolted together for 20 or 30 years - galling is probably the biggest concern. In addition to using anti-seize on any bolt into aluminum I have another rule of my own, which is never to remove a sparkplug or other torqued fastener in aluminum on a hot engine. I'm sure people do it all the time and manage to get away with it but I think that is how most plug holes get stripped in aluminum cylinder heads.
Yes, totally agree with this. If you want to do some interesting reading, Google changing and correcting Fords better idea for 2005 Mustang and up 4.6 V-8 spark plugs. Just did this very very carefully and did not break one plug. the dealer gets good bucks to do this because it is a nightmare and your heart is in your mouth the whole time. They are actually told to explain to the customer that a few plugs are most likely to break in one of three places. i researched this to death before I attempted it. Also lucky the car has only 55K on it.
The point is, they stress only on COLD ENGINE!!!!
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Old 05-30-2016, 02:17 PM
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Oh I know - a few years ago I changed out the blower pulley and tune on my 03 Lightning with a modular motor and I was required to put in a colder plug. It took me two days, off and on, to change all 8 plugs. Fortunately I didn't break any either and I made sure to apply a complete coating of anti-seize on the threads of all the new ones. The back cylinders were back under the cowl and out of sight - I tied the coil pack screws to my finger with a piece of thread because I knew if I ever fumbled one back there I would have no chance of ever finding and retrieving it.
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Old 05-30-2016, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC View Post
Oh I know - a few years ago I changed out the blower pulley and tune on my 03 Lightning with a modular motor and I was required to put in a colder plug. It took me two days, off and on, to change all 8 plugs. Fortunately I didn't break any either and I made sure to apply a complete coating of anti-seize on the threads of all the new ones. The back cylinders were back under the cowl and out of sight - I tied the coil pack screws to my finger with a piece of thread because I knew if I ever fumbled one back there I would have no chance of ever finding and retrieving it.
Cool trick, I will have to remember that one!
I hope an 03 Lightning is diff than my 05 stang 3 valve 4.6. The only place you put the nickel anti seize is on the shielding ONLY which is about 1" long, you stop at the beginning of the threads. i will attach the PDF. I guess not, it exceeded the limit of 39KB. This file is 498 KB. Google FORD tsb08-07-06
Do you know when removing them, if you exceed 33 ft lbs you are definitely breaking the plug if your lucky, if your not, you strip out the threads in the head. They sell specialty kits for both situations!!! Guess that has been done plenty of times
Hey, I managed to Hi-jack my own thread...LOL
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Old 05-31-2016, 05:11 AM
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They are a bit different - 2V steel heads. They relied on the blower for power rather than the heads. They were known for spark plug thread stripping up through 2002 after which they increased the thread count to 8 from 4 for the plugs. So far mine have been good.
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Old 05-31-2016, 05:16 AM
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Quote:
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They are a bit different - 2V steel heads. They relied on the blower for power rather than the heads. They were known for spark plug thread stripping up through 2002 after which they increased the thread count to 8 from 4 for the plugs. So far mine have been good.
Yes, OK, I remember reading all about that issue.What could they have been thinking? Then they follow that mess up with the 3V 3 piece plug idea.
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Old 05-31-2016, 08:08 AM
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Yes, OK, I remember reading all about that issue.What could they have been thinking? Then they follow that mess up with the 3V 3 piece plug idea.
Guess I haven't heard about the 3-piece plug thing. My 2008 3V Mustang GT got totaled before I ever had to change the plugs - by a lady in a minivan who didn't think my occupying the on-coming lane should be any obstacle to her making a left turn.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2016, 08:51 AM
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[quote=davids2toys;1392893]...why no lock washers?

Lockwashers revisited

Still using lock washers?
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 05-31-2016, 10:10 AM
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I think I torqued mine (Edelbrock) to 35 lbs. I removed the carbs to get to the bolts. It gave me the opportunity to replace gaskets and install the carb linkage wrong, but that's another story on another thread. I used the TA-31 and it sealed up tight.

Phil
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