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 4Likes
06-08-2016, 10:34 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 21,897
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
Also will depend on the condition of the holes and threads in your heads as to what they will take. Best to get as much thread engagement as you can.
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Maybe if we just substitute JB Weld for antiseize we can get by with three threads or less.  |
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06-08-2016, 10:41 AM
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Senior CC Premier Member
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: SoCal,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX #4xxx with CSX 482; David Kee Toploader
Posts: 3,574
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Not Ranked
Amazing...122 posts all about two bolts! They got in there somehow!!
If you can find a Snap-On or Mac tools truck in your neighborhood, maybe see if they can fix you up with the right tool on an individual basis.
My 2 c.
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All that's stopping you now Son, is blind-raging fear.......
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06-08-2016, 10:42 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 21,897
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bernica
Amazing...122 posts all about two bolts! They got in there somehow!!
If you can find a Snap-On or Mac tools truck in your neighborhood, maybe see if they can fix you up with the right tool on an individual basis.
My 2 c. |
No, I'd rather spend two grand having a custom tool made for me. |
06-08-2016, 11:31 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southbury,
ct
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA, 428, 4 speed Toploader, Jag rear, Red with White stripes
Posts: 922
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Not Ranked
Understood Dan, thanks
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ERA#698 428, 4 speed Toploader, 3:31 Jag rear
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06-08-2016, 11:33 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southbury,
ct
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA, 428, 4 speed Toploader, Jag rear, Red with White stripes
Posts: 922
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
No, I'd rather spend two grand having a custom tool made for me. |
Yeah, what he said!
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ERA#698 428, 4 speed Toploader, 3:31 Jag rear
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06-08-2016, 11:39 AM
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Senior CC Premier Member
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: SoCal,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX #4xxx with CSX 482; David Kee Toploader
Posts: 3,574
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Not Ranked
Go to NASA, JPL or MIT then.
They will surely whip something up for you!  
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All that's stopping you now Son, is blind-raging fear.......
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06-09-2016, 08:50 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southbury,
ct
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA, 428, 4 speed Toploader, Jag rear, Red with White stripes
Posts: 922
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Not Ranked
Well my laziness kicked me in the a**. I took the carb back off and things became more do-able. Still difficult, but do-able. The front fastener that I thought was going to be the more difficult of the two proved to be the easier of the two. For that rear one I end up using a 1/4 inch drive 12 point swivel universal socket combo, 4" extension and a 1/4' to 3/8" step up adapter (made in Taiwan), it did not break! All ten fasteners Torqued to 25 ft lbs. I also needed to compute on a few of them for the added length of the wrench. . I ended up setting the wrench at 23.5 for those. I am happy because now I have a good starting point. I will search for any vacuum leaks once I get it running again. Also took off the distributor cap off to gain access to the front driver side bolt. Good thing I did because my terminals INSIDE the cap had lots of blue corrosion on them. This was a new MSD street-fire cap less than two years ago with only 1000 miles on it!. I cleaned them off with scotch-bite along with the edge of the rotor. I applied a little dielectric grease on all the terminals inside the cap and on the edge of the rotor. I don't know if this is the smartest move. Worst that can happen is that is doesn't run. I will then just clean it off. I also put lots of grease around the sealing lip and the points adjusting sliding door of the cap. I wonder why the terminals are corroding so much?
Thanks everybody for your help. Hopefully this longer than expected thread will help somebody in the future. Biggest advice for a Blue Thunder manifold...CARB OFF!
I had an Aluminum manifold (don't recall the make) on my last Cobra. Also a 428. I routinely re-torque everything one a year. I remember doing the manifold with the carb and Turkey pan in place with no issues at all. I guess that is what threw me.
Dave
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ERA#698 428, 4 speed Toploader, 3:31 Jag rear
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06-10-2016, 06:03 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,483
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Not Ranked
Let us know what happens with the Dielectric grease on the distributor cap terminals. Not sure I would try that although I use in on all sorts of electrical connections and have never had an issue. Dielectric grease is supposed to inhibit electrical conductivity but most spade type connectors make hard physical contact and scrape through the grease to make connection.
Not sure about a distributor cap where there is an air gap - it may inhibit spark energy across the gap. Heck - I don't know, maybe it will increase potential and increase spark energy??? They make a conductive grease that is better suited for this sort of thing but I haven't run across it - would need to find it on-line.
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06-10-2016, 06:11 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southbury,
ct
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA, 428, 4 speed Toploader, Jag rear, Red with White stripes
Posts: 922
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Exactly my thoughts Dan. I use it liberally on anything that makes hard contact, plug wires /both ends, battery terminals, spade connectors etc, etc.
I am a ways from running at this time but I will let you know
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ERA#698 428, 4 speed Toploader, 3:31 Jag rear
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06-10-2016, 06:38 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,483
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by davids2toys
Exactly my thoughts Dan. I use it liberally on anything that makes hard contact, plug wires /both ends, battery terminals, spade connectors etc, etc.
I am a ways from running at this time but I will let you know
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Reminds me of when I was a kid and always washing the engine compartment of my Plymouth which of course got the inside of the distributor cap wet and resulted in having to dry it out with towels, etc, etc, to get it started. Someone told me to spray it with WD40 and reinstall it and it would start fine. I was highly suspicious of this until I tried it - to young and ignorant to know what WD40 stood for at the time.  |
06-10-2016, 07:12 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Columbus,
OH
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 714
Posts: 713
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Not Ranked
Dave,
MSD recommends drilling two holes in the cap to allow moisture to escape. Shocking I know, but I also replace my cap annually. I just replaced the last distributor with a new one as a result of all of the corrosion. Next time it will be a Petronix.
Phil
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06-10-2016, 07:27 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,483
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by davids2toys
I am trying to rule out vac leaks. I want to re torque the intake.
Thanks...Dave
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So, after 7 pages - going back to post 1 Dave, do you suspect a vacuum leak or are you just trying to take precautions against one developing? When you say "trying to rule out" that indicates you are trying to deal with an issue and a vacuum leak is one of the possible sources. Are you experiencing low vacuum or is there an engine performance problem? |
06-10-2016, 01:18 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southbury,
ct
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA, 428, 4 speed Toploader, Jag rear, Red with White stripes
Posts: 922
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Large Arbor
Dave,
MSD recommends drilling two holes in the cap to allow moisture to escape. Shocking I know, but I also replace my cap annually. I just replaced the last distributor with a new one as a result of all of the corrosion. Next time it will be a Petronix.
Phil
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I had a Pertronix in my old Vette, it worked flawlessly, no issues ever.Where do they recommend drilling these holes and what size? While i was typing this I decided to call MSD...I'm on hold at the moment, #11 in Que...LOL
So here I am trying to seal any air entry point with Dielectric grease 
They also recommend drilling two holes in the 6AL box if mounted upside down(which mine is). They say condensation will form and collect on the electrical board. They want these holes in the base(feet side)
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ERA#698 428, 4 speed Toploader, 3:31 Jag rear
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06-10-2016, 01:23 PM
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Senior CC Premier Member
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: SoCal,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX #4xxx with CSX 482; David Kee Toploader
Posts: 3,574
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Not Ranked
All the more reasons I ripped everything out and went with Pertronix.
Also, I could swear that a few years ago when I was still on MSD they actually had a special cap available with holes already in it. I could be wrong.
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All that's stopping you now Son, is blind-raging fear.......
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06-10-2016, 01:26 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southbury,
ct
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA, 428, 4 speed Toploader, Jag rear, Red with White stripes
Posts: 922
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
Reminds me of when I was a kid and always washing the engine compartment of my Plymouth which of course got the inside of the distributor cap wet and resulted in having to dry it out with towels, etc, etc, to get it started. Someone told me to spray it with WD40 and reinstall it and it would start fine. I was highly suspicious of this until I tried it - to young and ignorant to know what WD40 stood for at the time. |
OMG, you just bought back some really great memories! Also one really bad one.
Washing the engine in my 56 Chevy Hot Rod. Got water in the oil and wiped out one the crank bearings. That really sucked. Tender age of 24,. Then I sold the car (stupid move), bought a house and got married. Well, the house was an OK move I suppose! 
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ERA#698 428, 4 speed Toploader, 3:31 Jag rear
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06-10-2016, 01:46 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southbury,
ct
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA, 428, 4 speed Toploader, Jag rear, Red with White stripes
Posts: 922
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
So, after 7 pages - going back to post 1 Dave, do you suspect a vacuum leak or are you just trying to take precautions against one developing? When you say "trying to rule out" that indicates you are trying to deal with an issue and a vacuum leak is one of the possible sources. Are you experiencing low vacuum or is there an engine performance problem?
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Actually both. I just had the carb rebuilt. I installed it and took it for a ride. No more stumble when I get on it, but just cruising it will just die for a split second and the come back to life with a little surge. Hard to explain
I really don't think it is a vacuum leak, but it is an easy place to start. now that I saw all that corrosion in the cap, maybe that might have something to do with it.
Just talked to MSD. They recommended (2) 1/8" holes 180 deg apart in the base of the cap. this would also explain very heavy rust on the module. I purchase a new module last year but MSD said at the time it is an item that will work 100% or not work at all. So I held off doing it. Her said a light coating of dielectric grease should be fine if it is very light. He also said to put some on the reluctor for corrosion protection.No electrical there, just magnetic
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ERA#698 428, 4 speed Toploader, 3:31 Jag rear
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06-10-2016, 01:52 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southbury,
ct
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA, 428, 4 speed Toploader, Jag rear, Red with White stripes
Posts: 922
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bernica
All the more reasons I ripped everything out and went with Pertronix.
Also, I could swear that a few years ago when I was still on MSD they actually had a special cap available with holes already in it. I could be wrong.
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Yes, that cap is there HEI style cap. It has a single breather on top. It is not enough, they still recommend one additional hole. so the air has a pathway in and out. Hmmm, why dont they just build it that way.
My cap has no vent because I wanted the old school socket style look.
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ERA#698 428, 4 speed Toploader, 3:31 Jag rear
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06-10-2016, 02:00 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 21,897
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by davids2toys
He said a light coating of dielectric grease should be fine if it is very light. He also said to put some on the reluctor for corrosion protection.No electrical there, just magnetic
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FWIW, I have put dielectric grease on every electrical connection, every plug, every screw, you name it, and have done it for 40 years. I put it on spark plug connections, the distributor cap, the rotor, everything. It's great. It will never interfere with any connection and any threads that say "no, dielectric grease is an insulator and will block the electron transfer, blah, blah, blah..." is just a crock o' shi*. Put it everywhere, just don't glob it on. |
06-15-2016, 04:28 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southbury,
ct
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA, 428, 4 speed Toploader, Jag rear, Red with White stripes
Posts: 922
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Not Ranked
Been busy with house projects so have not got back to the car yet.
I had a thought this morning that I never considered when re-torquing the Intake. Some of the bolts were looser than others so I did get movement. Are any of these bolts thru bolts that hit coolant and are installed with RTV to seal them?
Just a thought on creating a new problem by moving them and disturbing any cured sealant possibly creating a leak somewhere.
Dave
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ERA#698 428, 4 speed Toploader, 3:31 Jag rear
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06-15-2016, 04:29 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville,
KY
Cobra Make, Engine: I'm Cobra-less!
Posts: 9,391
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Not Ranked
None of the bolts hit water.
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