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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2016, 07:19 PM
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A good idea to an old problem, but it still places the spanner under more load than it was designed for.

We've all done it at some stage.
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Old 06-06-2016, 10:37 PM
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Yes, totally frustrating. So what is the deal with this being called a spanner. I know what a spanner wrench is. The word spanner has been used a lot in this thread, what exactly are we talking about when using that word. I was thinking it was meaning a dog-bone from what I was gathering...guess not!

Yes, obviously not a very good tool but it is the only thing that will get in there. Whats is worse is I cannot find a 12 point version of this tool, only 6 point. My buddy told me that thing was like 40 years old

I bought a couple of fasteners and studs today. Even the 2 1/4 Allen hex head, I cannot get it in because of the little extra width at the top wont get by the intake runner. That great stud idea also isn't looking to promising , again because of the additional length, angle of the hole and the location of the runner I cant see this working. By measuring the total depth(about 2 1/2", the bolt that was in there was grabbing about 1" of threads in the head. So even if I went with that amount of grip, the stud would have to be about 2 7/8 total length. There is no way that is going in.
This is the better of the two holes, the front one is much worse!
I also talked to ARP tonight, I need to called them back. ARP bolts have the built in washer that measures .620 wide, that will never work. Hopefully they have bolts that do not have the washer built in and I can buy them separately.
Also need to get that front bolt out so I can measure it vs. total depth of the hole. I will try the flare 12 point crows foot. I will probably break that tool too because it is 1/4 drive and I think because it is cut out to go over a line it will not hold the size. It is a Snap-on, so it might. The 1/4 to 3/8 adapter will probably shear off anyway before I get a chance to find out.
Another thought is to take one or two threads off the 2 1/4" Allen bolts so I can get them in. That would mean less thread engagement in the head. I think 1/8-3/16 off might do it,. That would mean about 3/4"-7/8' thread engagement. Last thing I want to do is pull the thread out of the head! Anybody know the minimum safe thread engagement needed for aluminum heads?
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Old 06-07-2016, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davids2toys View Post
Anybody know the minimum safe thread engagement needed for aluminum heads?
The rule of thumb for steel is 1.5 times the bolt diameter. I can't find anything for aluminum. IMO I would feel very comfortable at 2.5 times bolt diameter which is 15/16 inch. At 25 ft lbs you may be fine at 2X bolt diameter. If you are talking with ARP you might ask them this question.
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Old 06-07-2016, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC View Post
The rule of thumb for sEeel is 1.5 times the bolt diameter. I can't find anything for aluminum. IMO I would feel very comfortable at 2.5 times bolt diameter which is 15/16 inch. At 25 ft lbs you may be fine at 2X bolt diameter. If you are talking with ARP you might ask them this question.
Very good Dan, I will. Perhaps Edelbrock also?
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Old 06-08-2016, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davids2toys View Post
Very good Dan, I will. Perhaps Edelbrock also?
Possibly - if they are willing to express an opinion.

I should have added their are a lot of variables to a "rule of thumb". Fine thread bolts typically need a bit less engagement than coarse thread. Also will depend on the condition of the holes and threads in your heads as to what they will take. Best to get as much thread engagement as you can.
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Old 06-08-2016, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC View Post
Also will depend on the condition of the holes and threads in your heads as to what they will take. Best to get as much thread engagement as you can.
Maybe if we just substitute JB Weld for antiseize we can get by with three threads or less.
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Old 06-08-2016, 11:41 AM
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Amazing...122 posts all about two bolts! They got in there somehow!!
If you can find a Snap-On or Mac tools truck in your neighborhood, maybe see if they can fix you up with the right tool on an individual basis.
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