Torquing intake manifold bolts question

[davids2toys]

Originally Posted by DanEC

Reminds me of when I was a kid and always washing the engine compartment of my Plymouth which of course got the inside of the distributor cap wet and resulted in having to dry it out with towels, etc, etc, to get it started. Someone told me to spray it with WD40 and reinstall it and it would start fine. I was highly suspicious of this until I tried it - to young and ignorant to know what WD40 stood for at the time.

OMG, you just bought back some really great memories! Also one really bad one.
Washing the engine in my 56 Chevy Hot Rod. Got water in the oil and wiped out one the crank bearings. That really sucked. Tender age of 24,. Then I sold the car (stupid move), bought a house and got married. Well, the house was an OK move I suppose!

[Large Arbor]

Dave,

MSD recommends drilling two holes in the cap to allow moisture to escape. Shocking I know, but I also replace my cap annually. I just replaced the last distributor with a new one as a result of all of the corrosion. Next time it will be a Petronix.

Phil

[davids2toys]

Originally Posted by Large Arbor

Dave,

MSD recommends drilling two holes in the cap to allow moisture to escape. Shocking I know, but I also replace my cap annually. I just replaced the last distributor with a new one as a result of all of the corrosion. Next time it will be a Petronix.

Phil

I had a Pertronix in my old Vette, it worked flawlessly, no issues ever.Where do they recommend drilling these holes and what size? While i was typing this I decided to call MSD...I'm on hold at the moment, #11 in Que...LOL

So here I am trying to seal any air entry point with Dielectric grease
They also recommend drilling two holes in the 6AL box if mounted upside down(which mine is). They say condensation will form and collect on the electrical board. They want these holes in the base(feet side)

[Bernica]

All the more reasons I ripped everything out and went with Pertronix.
Also, I could swear that a few years ago when I was still on MSD they actually had a special cap available with holes already in it. I could be wrong.

[davids2toys]

Originally Posted by Bernica

All the more reasons I ripped everything out and went with Pertronix.
Also, I could swear that a few years ago when I was still on MSD they actually had a special cap available with holes already in it. I could be wrong.

Yes, that cap is there HEI style cap. It has a single breather on top. It is not enough, they still recommend one additional hole. so the air has a pathway in and out. Hmmm, why dont they just build it that way.
My cap has no vent because I wanted the old school socket style look.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by davids2toys

I am trying to rule out vac leaks. I want to re torque the intake.
Thanks...Dave

So, after 7 pages - going back to post 1 Dave, do you suspect a vacuum leak or are you just trying to take precautions against one developing? When you say "trying to rule out" that indicates you are trying to deal with an issue and a vacuum leak is one of the possible sources. Are you experiencing low vacuum or is there an engine performance problem?

[davids2toys]

Originally Posted by DanEC

So, after 7 pages - going back to post 1 Dave, do you suspect a vacuum leak or are you just trying to take precautions against one developing? When you say "trying to rule out" that indicates you are trying to deal with an issue and a vacuum leak is one of the possible sources. Are you experiencing low vacuum or is there an engine performance problem?

Actually both. I just had the carb rebuilt. I installed it and took it for a ride. No more stumble when I get on it, but just cruising it will just die for a split second and the come back to life with a little surge. Hard to explain
I really don't think it is a vacuum leak, but it is an easy place to start. now that I saw all that corrosion in the cap, maybe that might have something to do with it.
Just talked to MSD. They recommended (2) 1/8" holes 180 deg apart in the base of the cap. this would also explain very heavy rust on the module. I purchase a new module last year but MSD said at the time it is an item that will work 100% or not work at all. So I held off doing it. Her said a light coating of dielectric grease should be fine if it is very light. He also said to put some on the reluctor for corrosion protection.No electrical there, just magnetic

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by davids2toys

He said a light coating of dielectric grease should be fine if it is very light. He also said to put some on the reluctor for corrosion protection.No electrical there, just magnetic

FWIW, I have put dielectric grease on every electrical connection, every plug, every screw, you name it, and have done it for 40 years. I put it on spark plug connections, the distributor cap, the rotor, everything. It's great. It will never interfere with any connection and any threads that say "no, dielectric grease is an insulator and will block the electron transfer, blah, blah, blah..." is just a crock o' shi*. Put it everywhere, just don't glob it on.

[davids2toys]

Been busy with house projects so have not got back to the car yet.
I had a thought this morning that I never considered when re-torquing the Intake. Some of the bolts were looser than others so I did get movement. Are any of these bolts thru bolts that hit coolant and are installed with RTV to seal them?
Just a thought on creating a new problem by moving them and disturbing any cured sealant possibly creating a leak somewhere.
Dave

[blykins]

None of the bolts hit water.