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Kirkham Motorsports

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  • 1 Post By tboneheller

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2017, 02:29 PM
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Default Torque setting on FE Edelebrock Intake...

I am currently refitting the FE expansion tank after a few problems, now hopefully resolved.

Does anyone have torque settings for the two bolts that hold the FE expansion tank and insert into the Ede Performer intake either side of the thermostat?

Have previously got over-enthusiastic with another V8 thermostat housing that then cracked and leaked - I don't want to strip ali threads, or cause any other problems (again).

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Old 01-06-2017, 06:42 AM
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When I did mine, assuming you are talking about the 2 thermostat bolts it was for the 12-15 ft lbs, go towards the lower # for aluminum. I did this and had no problem. Hope this helps
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Old 01-06-2017, 12:19 PM
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Many thanks!
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Old 01-06-2017, 07:18 PM
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Default Anti-Seize

You may have been going to do this anyway, but it might not be a bad idea to dab a little anti-seize on the bolt threads. This will make it easier on the aluminum threads should dis-assembly be needed in the future.
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Old 01-07-2017, 10:12 AM
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Very true but also creates a much easier to over torque situation because of the lubricated threads. Just take that into acct
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Old 01-07-2017, 02:30 PM
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Thanks for the suggestion, but I am always paranoid about putting anything onto the threads of fixings going into blind threaded holes for fear of building up pneumatic pressure. I spent a fair bit of time screwing in the bolts and unscrewing them and cleaning the threads to try and get them to go in smoothly - its all done now. Tomorrow is the moment of truth when I'll have some time to top up the coolant and see if it stays inside the engine!
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Old 01-08-2017, 08:29 AM
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You could always mount it with some studs.
120mm likes this.
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Old 01-10-2017, 11:42 PM
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Default Maybe I'm paranoid......

Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinW View Post
Thanks for the suggestion, but I am always paranoid about putting anything onto the threads of fixings going into blind threaded holes for fear of building up pneumatic pressure. I spent a fair bit of time screwing in the bolts and unscrewing them and cleaning the threads to try and get them to go in smoothly - its all done now. Tomorrow is the moment of truth when I'll have some time to top up the coolant and see if it stays inside the engine!
OK, so I torqued both bolts up to 12 ft lbs, then to 15 ft lbs. Seemed OK, but then I noticed I have 1 coolant droplet drips every 6 hours, based on the large piece of card I put under the car to check for leaks. I am assuming that's still a leak (although I know FEs tend to leak oil)

Any suggestions? Tighten it some more ....or ?

I am running a spacer in there like this:
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...hp/photo/50573
so have a gasket either side, which I coated with Blue Hylomar. The bolts are extra length to account for the 10mm spacer, but still have 1-2mm depth clearance in the hole so they don't bottom out on the blind threads.
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Last edited by KevinW; 01-10-2017 at 11:49 PM..
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Old 01-11-2017, 05:11 AM
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Can you see where the drips are starting from with a strong light? You should be able to tell if oil or antifreeze by the color. Have you even started the car - hard to believe it would leak before you even ran the car and pressurized the coolant system?

Possibly it's the overflow tank itself. I would try to pinpoint the origin of the leak for sure. You may need to get one of those dye kits and a light down at a parts store if you can't make it out. I would not tighten bolts further. I think changing to studs and nuts might be a better approach as mentioned above.
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Old 01-11-2017, 05:14 AM
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I do not torque mine, I just hand tighten, (but I am careful) but I do coat the gasket both sides with Motorkraft TA-31 Sealant and let it set for 24 hours before adding any fluid. This is the way I have done it for over 30 years and I have never had a problem. I just did my 427 F.E. this last winter, I did the Intake (Blue Thunder) and my Header Tank, I have not had any problems.
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:43 AM
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Thanks guys. The engine has run (briefly) - whilst trying to set/check the timing before Christmas resulted in coolant spraying out once some pressure built up. So, I pulled the expansion tank and made a new spacer, as shown in post above, and checked for flatness, and then assembled. All seemed good till I noticed the very slight leak.

Very difficult to see where the drip is coming from as its very slight, but I strongly suspect somewhere near the expansion tank connection. I am guessing will get worse once the car gets up to temperature..... which I'll try to test tomorrow.

So TA-31 is basically RTV Silicone, which i have, maybe it would have been better to use this rather than Blue Hylomar. How much sealant do you use? A thin smear?
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Last edited by KevinW; 01-11-2017 at 07:49 AM..
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 427Larry View Post
I do not torque mine, I just hand tighten, (but I am careful) but I do coat the gasket both sides with Motorkraft TA-31 Sealant and let it set for 24 hours before adding any fluid. This is the way I have done it for over 30 years and I have never had a problem. I just did my 427 F.E. this last winter, I did the Intake (Blue Thunder) and my Header Tank, I have not had any problems.
I let every gasket sit after assembly for 24 hours before adding fluid no matter what job I am doing!
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Old 01-11-2017, 02:20 PM
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I make sure I use a good gasket, not a thin one and yes just a good smear not to heavy. Like davis2toys said I also never add fluids to anything for at least 24 hours to make sure the sealant is fully cured. Sometimes I have found that it will take up to 48 hours for the TA-31 to fully cure. Good luck !
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Old 01-11-2017, 02:58 PM
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Thanks!
Larry: Good = 1mm/2mm thickness?
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Old 01-12-2017, 04:46 AM
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Kevin,

Don't use Blue Hylomar - it is rubbish. I use Threebond liquid gasket 1209 (I think) the grey stuff. It is basically the same as the Motorcraft TA-31 mentioned in above posts. Also, I use Evans Waterless coolant in my Shelby FE stroker. This is far superior to water/glycol mix because it drastically reduces system pressure when the engine gets up to temperature - hence no leaks. PM me if you need further info. I'm in UK like you

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Old 01-12-2017, 07:40 AM
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Kevin, sounds about right.
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Old 01-12-2017, 10:55 AM
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Thanks guys, tips to be enacted, but drip seems to have stopped. I am running the engine again tomorrow (subject to predicted snow) to check the timing and take the idle down as it starting getting hot with just a few minutes running - didn't realise how much heat these FE engines kick out. I'll check again for the leak after the run with some coolant pressure built up.
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