Cam Recommendations?

[FatBoy]

Originally Posted by blykins

I have about 30-40 tapered ones and prefer to use them, but I could never find one for a standard bore 427, so I just use an adjustable one.

He meant no oil or lubricant between the bearing shell and the rod or main.

Ah, okay, that makes more sense. 🙂

Are any types of ring compressors better than others?

[blykins]

What's your exact bore size? I see that ARP now has a 4.232".

If you can buy a tapered compressor, I like those best. If not, just an adjustable band type will work with a little finesse.

[FatBoy]

Originally Posted by blykins

What's your exact bore size? I see that ARP now has a 4.232".

I'll check the Pistons, but I'm pretty sure it's still on standard bore sizes.

What size should the ring compressor be compared to the bore size?

[blykins]

I've never tried to fudge it, so I'm not sure on what you can get away with. The piston size wouldn't be the problem, but hanging the rings up on the block on the way down would be the issue.

I think 4.233" is true bore size for a standard 427, so that 4.232" compressor should put you in a good spot.

[Dominik]

I didn't mean to scare you away from buying the adjustable ring compressor by saying the process needs a bit of confidence when you ram the piston in. If the rings are not on the piston yet, buy a $8 ring expander.

I did approximately 30 engines in my life, means I am a novice everytime I build one, and it works 80% of the time for each piston immediately. The other 20% get a second turn.

Most important is the speed at which the piston gets inserted and that you have the tool ring square on the block. I feel that just pushing the piston down with one hand won't work. I use a hammer handle to knock it lightly.

There are endless debates about how to position the ring gap, but I leave that for another time!

I agree with Kirkham about the oil cooler. My mate rebuilds engines and automatic transmissions. The oil cooler gets replaced.

The bearings need to sit dry in the block or rod to transfer heat. You may find them oily, however, when you strip an engine...

Of course, oil the operating surface. Also a drop on the front and rear main seal will avoid it burning away during break in.

PS: A bit of history. I lost a cam lobe in an all aluminium Chevy (Reynolds block). I had water seepage around the head studs leading to reduced lubrication. I lost a complete side-oiler because the builder used 390 rods. Apparently tested, but the beach marks at the crack speak another language. I am now extra careful. Buy that oil cooler..