Puke tank?

[AC Ventura]

Can anyone please explain the purpose and plumbing for the puke tank on the FE. I’m guessing it’s intended to deal with crankcase ventilation, but not clear if it vents or what. My chrome valve covers have chrome breathers, each with a outlet where you presumably attach a pipe. They are around 1/4-5/16 dia. Ant info or pix and where to buy would be appreciated.

[xb-60]

The blow-by past the rings (vapour and oil) exits from both rocker covers into the puke tank.
The oil settles out in the tank, and the vapours vent to the atmosphere.
There’s a drain cock at the bottom of the tank for draining the tank of oil.
It’s normally for race use; for the road, you would use PCV valves.

Cheers,
Glen

[AC Ventura]

Originally Posted by xb-60

The blow-by past the rings (vapour and oil) exits from both rocker covers into the puke tank.
The oil settles out in the tank, and the vapours vent to the atmosphere.
There’s a drain cock at the bottom of the tank for draining the tank of oil.
It’s normally for race use; for the road, you would use PCV valves.

Cheers,
Glen

Thanks Glen. My FE is all aluminium, all new, Pond based and not run by me yet. Id be interested in any diagrams and part nos recommended for the PCV arrangement. The carb is quick fuel and the intake is Edelbrock RPM.

[RockBit]

Originally Posted by AC Ventura

Id be interested in any diagrams and part nos recommended for the PCV arrangement.

Mike - it is important that the PCV valve match the engine, which is hard to do on a custom nuild like yours. I fitted and adjustable PCV valve to mine made by ME Wagner. With this piece you can tune it to your engine. It comes with detailed instructions also.

Most use an oil catch can with this valve. I bought the small one from Moroso and made a bracket to attach it to the rear of my intake manifold. The plumbing is simple. The valve goes in one valve cover, hose from valve to catch can, and a second hose from catch can to the rear port on the base of your carb.

If you search ME Wagner on this forum you will see some threads about it. Google will get you to the vendor site where they have technical information.

One important thing is that your valve cover needs to be baffled. Most are.

[davids2toys]

Just an alternate thought for you:
I like and will be installing chrome pent-roof VC's with the emblems on my car soon. Already have them ready to go. I personally hate the way PCV systems look on Cobras. I use a hose at the back of the intake manifold to the proper port on the card much cleaner IMO and works great. They sell a little wire mesh kit to install in the intake for this application
Check out pic

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RockBit

Mike - it is important that the PCV valve match the engine, which is hard to do on a custom nuild like yours. I fitted and adjustable PCV valve to mine made by ME Wagner....

Most use an oil catch can with this valve....

I agree 100% with all of that. It took me a long time to get my PCV system exactly the way I wanted it and, when you do, it can make a world of difference to your hot idling and off-idle performance. The ME Wagner and small Moroso separator is the way to go. Plumbing it in on your engine requires a bit of fabbing, but not much.

[davids2toys]

Patrick,
I was only referring to the hoses coming out of the valve covers and routed around to get to the carb. I have never seen your set-up, looks real clean! Very nice. So is that your only PCV source, the intake valley and nothing from the Valve covers? I see a hose running somewhere from your VC breather, can't really tell from your pic. After reading Rockbit's post I think I understand now what you have going on. My eyes are going I guess! I thought the separator in the pic was the PCV valve gizmo.
On my 2005 mustang I had to install a really nice puke tank from JLT to cure carbon buildup in back of the throttle body that is exposed to the intake manifold
So, what have you noticed for advantages over what I have? I just have a PCV stuck in the manifold and the hose going to the carb, nothing from my valve covers and no puke tank of any kind. Will this one location and set-up do the job for me or is this bad thing?
Thanks

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by davids2toys

Patrick,
I was only referring to the hoses coming out of the valve covers and routed around to get to the carb. I have never seen your set-up, looks real clean!

...can't really tell from your pic.

...So, what have you noticed for advantages over what I have?

Here is a pic from the top, with handy labels for old men like us with failing eyesight. You can see I take my vacuum from the base of the carb through a little black hose, through a copper tube that is carefully bent to allow me to go down through the base of the Turkey Pan, then straight back through another small black hose to the black Moroso oil/air separator. You can see that separator, which is a two part screw on can, is held in place via the aluminum bracket that is held down to the manifold via one half inch bolt over to the right. From the Moroso separator, a longer black hose goes over to the adjustable ME Wagner PCV valve that is in the cap on the passenger side valve cover cap. It's a beautiful job, if I do say so myself.

The main advantage that I have noticed is that it, along with a secondary idle speed adjustment screw that allows cracking open my secondaries, allows just the right amount of air coming in through the Holley during "HOT" idling and barely-off-idle cruising so that I have consistency in my air/fuel ratio. Before doing all of that, I had the age-old problem of the idle being too rich when the under hood temperatures got really hot. If I turned the primary idle up, then I was in the transfer slot, causing other problems. The combination of the adjustable Wagner PCV and the secondary adjustment screw fixed all of my hot idle problems. A thread showing pics of my modification for that is found here: Best Way to set the idle mix on a 4160

[AC Ventura]

Originally Posted by RockBit

Mike - it is important that the PCV valve match the engine, which is hard to do on a custom nuild like yours. I fitted and adjustable PCV valve to mine made by ME Wagner. With this piece you can tune it to your engine. It comes with detailed instructions also.

Most use an oil catch can with this valve. I bought the small one from Moroso and made a bracket to attach it to the rear of my intake manifold. The plumbing is simple. The valve goes in one valve cover, hose from valve to catch can, and a second hose from catch can to the rear port on the base of your carb.

If you search ME Wagner on this forum you will see some threads about it. Google will get you to the vendor site where they have technical information.

One important thing is that your valve cover needs to be baffled. Most are.

Thanks Chris and rest of you guys. Looks like ME Wagner seemingly has the most likely solution and will get onto their website now.

[davids2toys]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Here is a pic from the top, with handy labels for old men like us with failing eyesight. You can see I take my vacuum from the base of the carb through a little black hose, through a copper tube that is carefully bent to allow me to go down through the base of the Turkey Pan, then straight back through another small black hose to the black Moroso oil/air separator. You can see that separator, which is a two part screw on can, is held in place via the aluminum bracket that is held down to the manifold via one half inch bolt over to the right. From the Moroso separator, a longer black hose goes over to the adjustable ME Wagner PCV valve that is in the cap on the passenger side valve cover cap. It's a beautiful job, if I do say so myself.

The main advantage that I have noticed is that it, along with a secondary idle speed adjustment screw that allows cracking open my secondaries, allows just the right amount of air coming in through the Holley during "HOT" idling and barely-off-idle cruising so that I have consistency in my air/fuel ratio. Before doing all of that, I had the age-old problem of the idle being too rich when the under hood temperatures got really hot. If I turned the primary idle up, then I was in the transfer slot, causing other problems. The combination of the adjustable Wagner PCV and the secondary adjustment screw fixed all of my hot idle problems. A thread showing pics of my modification for that is found here: Best Way to set the idle mix on a 4160

Hi Patrick,
This one thread has had issues, every time I went to follow it or post I would get site not available, but it was only for this thread, all others worked fine.
So, there is no pic that you said you posted. Also, I did post an edit to my my post after looking at your orig pic, After I looked at your first pic much better I saw that you were going to the valve cover. I now don't see my edit, or your orig pic, or the second pic that you posted. Can you re-post your pics?
Thanks...Dave

[patrickt]

Here are two pics that seem to vanish from time to time.

[davids2toys]

Patrick, these are excellent. You are real craftsmen!
Thanks...Dave

[Ron61]

Patrick,

You have did a great job on that set up and I was wondering if it would work with a stack injection system. I am not sure that I have enough room between the back of my block and the firewall to put a catch can there but I really like the cleanness of your set up.

As for the pictures some of the members have trouble seeing, I have had no problem with this thread at all but some other threads I have that problem with. It isn't your computers but something in the site software.

Ron

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Ron61

Patrick,

You have did a great job on that set up and I was wondering if it would work with a stack injection system.

I don't see why it wouldn't. So long as you have a decent little vacuum fitting, and a little creative thinking, and it's actually easier than you might think.

[Ron61]

Thanks Patrickt,

Right now it is working like the old style that goes into the back of the intake manifold. You can't see where it goes in because of the set back of the engine.

Ron