To buy or not to buy a 427

[dlampe]

I realize that by posting on the FE forum that maybe on some level I have already decided what to do, but for the record, here is the question: Do I put a 427 in my new cobra or a super stroked out 351w? I have an option on a standard bore 427 sideoiler with MR heads, new SS valves and lunati double springs. The crank is .020/.020 with Lemans rods and stock dome pistons. The intake is an edelbrock 427( is that good?)The motor is freshly rebuilt but I have not met the Mechanic. I expect to take it apart and have someone go through it. All said and done, I will have between 8k and 9k in the motor. For that much money I could get a tremendous motor.

The car is a new Huricaine and it will be built to look as close to an original as it can be. I also race as many miles as I cruise around. I am a realist, more than 450HP on a road course could be overkill.

Does this price seem OK and how do you like your FE? Has anyone had both?

[ENTDOC]

Get the 427.Buy the best and you will never be dissapointed. chuck

[Tim Brewer]

If you want your car yo look as original as possible, you'll want that 427 for sure. The 427 is THE engine to have, and no one will argue that. Eight or nine grand is CHEAP for a good 427 SO. An aluminum 427 will can set you back 25K. If it is freshly rebuilt, see if that builder will give you some sort of guarantee. The 427 should produce around 425-450 hp, and that's good. Also, a super stroked 351 will always look like a 351, if that's ok with you.
Just my .02
Tim

[SCOBRAC]

I have already forgotten what the 427 cost I like it so well...

[Excaliber]

For once, in MY Cobra, I just HAD to find out what the 427 is all about. Without it, I would have always wondered.

It was a good call, I don't regret it!

[FFR428]

I agree and go with the 427. There is no other engine for a cobra than a FE. BTW how do you like the new Huricaine? If you can give us some details being that's a fairly new kit to the market I beleive. G.

[Jack Zupan]

I had a 351 Cobra for five years and now have one with a 427 FE. I love the FE motor. It has lots of torque and is a gas to drive. It also looks authentic sitting in the engine bay. I don't take my car to road tracks so I don't know how the car would behave. On the dragstrip the car is a gas.

Jack Z.

[dlampe]

There is already a long thread on Hurricane in all cobra talk, but in a few words, the kit is extremely nice! Even the hardware is included! I want to say I do not have the car yet. I am still driving my B&B. The Hurricane is a car that I believe will compete with all but the very top end Cobra's. Thier attention to detail is phenominal! I will be happy to keep you posted. I have serial No. HM0002. The 427 will be perfect for this car. Jay Nordstrom and I spent a lot of time in thier shop and we decided to buy three cars!Anyway, back to the 427. What kind of stuff is important to know or check on an FE to avoid getting shafted? Just a few bullit points would be great.

[ENTDOC]

check the compression with those pistons.It may be higher than tolerable. chuck

[BMK]

dlampe

The Hurricane looks great. Sure you will be happy.



I see some customer was so impressed he took three home...

What are you guys going to do for next winter months..

Three to build....have fun.

Bernie

[RACER X #99]

Here is a photo of a vehicle with a 427 side oiler and it does a fine job of moving a race car.

[PatBuckley]

You stated that you are going to race it....in that case do not do the 427, it is heavy and has loads of torque - not race track friendly. You want an engine that will rev for the track.

If you think that you will just be cruising around on the street and taking it to car shows then the 427 is the only way to go. In fact I would recommend a 428 - they look and perform almost identically.

[John McMahon]

T'aint nuttin likes drivin' a Sahd Oilah!!!!!!!!!

[SCOBRAC]

My 427 spins nicely to 7200 and makes peak HP at 6250... It has about the same torque as the 428 I took out but makes peak torque at over 5,000. This gives an added advantage of being quite manageable at cruising speed although somewhat frightful at 6000 rpm + That type of thing comes with a price. Big cam, big valves, lots of port work. You really need not go to that length. A nice 427 top oiler and a set of edelbrock heads will get you in the game for $10k or so, less if you build it yourself.

It's all about how you build them. You will spend less than half on a really nice 428 than a 427 however and either way you will be pleased. If you follow the logic the 428 would be a good engine (and it is) a 390 would be good too. Dimensionally identical externally you can build a really nice 390 for $5000 that will easily make 450 hp. But that isn't really the point is it.

I find it quite pleasing to engage in "kit car" conversations with the unwashed masses when they are clearly looking to find fault with my car (and there is pleanty to find fault with) and they ask what engine it has... The 1966 side oiler shuts down this line of conversation pretty fast. Same with the trans. I'd love a 5th or 6th speed but you never need to explain a toploader.

Obviously the better condition, the less use and age it shows the more you might expect to pay.

As for things to watch out for... Old engines mean (generally) lots of miles. 427's do not respond well (typically) to being bored beyond 4.26" or .030". Some have and take it well, others do not. Whatever you get have it sonic checked (for thickness) and mag particle tested (for cracks). Engines at or beyond .030 over are simply less valuable in the long run as they are in the third or fourth bore cycle. Most engines need at least .010-.015 to clean up for a rebuild. A NOS or standard bore 427 will easily be 2x the cost of one at .030" over.

There are new blocks avaliable comercially in iron and aluminum which are far better than OEM blocks, but not original. These are worth looking at and can be had for $3500-5000. Complete side oilers are found for as little as $7500 and as much as $30,000+

Beware of commercial, industrial or boat engines. These were most always taken from lesser tolerant castings, bores not quite square or other had casting issues and were not intended for racing or high RPM use. The 427's found in boats and other pleasure craft are not side oilers. They are 427 FE industrial engines and are not drilled with the side oiling passage.

Service blocks are rumored to be of lesser quality. I find this hard to believe. I'm sure some were, but so were many of the production engines. Ford used a series of paint markings to identify those engines with the tightest tolerances, thickest cylinder walls. The best went to the racing teams of NASCAR and The GT GTP programs, HM, Shelby, etc. You may still find a NOS block with these markings. I have forgotten what they all mean but blue and yellow were the top two.

[JonnyJ]

Okay, Newbie here with a question I hesitate to ask...

What does FE mean?

Thanks

Jon

[Chaplin]

ford-edsel

[Excaliber]

FE? Thats short hand for "Can of Worms".

Ford Edsel? Many say thats correct, many don't.

Ford Engine? Fewer say thats correct, but those few are generally in a good position to know of what they speak.

The debate will rage on forever. I'll take "Ford Engine" myself.

Which will you choose?

[Clois Harlan]

Well when I was having lunch with Henry the other day that topic did come up and he said that FE stood for "Forget Edsel".

[JonnyJ]

Not to beat a dead horse, but why is it trademarked? http://www.carrollshelbyent.com/engine_index.cfm

See the example here.

It seems desirable to have an engine that is FE. Am I mistaken?

Jon

[Todd Spence]

I've had both. First was a 392 FMS stroker. Engine hit hard but just didn't have much pull. I now have a 427 s/o. Engine hits about the same but pulls like a mule. That's what I wanted. Don't think I would go back to the stroker but that's just me. Congrats on the hurricane and good luck with your choice. Thanks, Todd