removal of brake balance bar

[scottj]

Originally posted by Jon Miller


Just when I was ready to spend $65 on a balance bar............

So what's not to like about a balance bar brake setup??????

I too have an Everett Morrison, and I'm in the process of designing a floor mount pedal assembly for it. So far I've just got the remote cable for the bar, but if I'm missing something here I hope one of you guys would set me straight before I blow this months parts budget on stuff I will not like.

Thanks!
Jon

There is nothing that's not to like about a properly designed dual master/balance bar set up and many reasons to like it.

That said, my Everett-Morrison pedal assemble had some problems. First the pedal is very close to the masters which requires that the push rods need to be shortened about 1 inch. That in itself wouldn't be a problem except that the pedal is too wide for the master cylinder bore spacing. So, instead of the rods running parallel to each other and concentric with the cylinder bores they ran on an angle. The shorter rods only increased the angle. The result was a system that was hard to adjust and would bind up. In a short time the binding cause the threads on the balance bar to be damaged.

After modifing the pedal assembly to place the rods concentric with the bores and replacing the EM balance bar with a Tilton balance bar, the system worked flawlessly.

If the Shell Valley assembly is having problems, then the "Pros" should have been able to diagnose the problems. These specific problems are not a reason to condemn the dual masters/ balance bar design in general.

Scott