427 s/o engine melt down??????

[Excaliber]

Many a new engine has been ruined 'right out of the box' while trying to sort out the myriad of details while you dial it in. Timing is another one. To much advance is typcial or just plain wrong timing can be a killer. If the timing is off to far it causes things like backfire through the carb (and a fire). While backfiring can be tolerated to some degree it can also be deadly to a new motor, the risk is real.

To lean with advanced timing can quickly eat up a piston. To rich, you wash the cylinders down. Loose radiator hoses that blow off is typical, as is v-belts flying around. You got to get the hose clamp positioned 'just right' and TIGHT!

I'm not sure I concur with the water pump 'free wheeling' due to lack of water, but it's possible. I would double check pulley alignment myself, perhaps the alternator spacing is 'off' just a little bit.

Excessive engine cranking and a 'no start' condition is really bad for a new motor. PRIME the carb (or wait for the electric fuel pump to fill it up) and make SURE the base timing is in the ball park before you start it up. When you DO start it up you need to be able to hold a decent rpm without a miss and backfiring for about 20 minutes. That is CRITICAL if you have a solid lifter cam. You WILL kill the cam if the motor is not 'right' when you first start it up.

To get a motor to 'live' in the first hours\miles is ALL about the 'details'. Leave no stone unturned.

As far as filling with water goes, I prefer a surge tank and simply 'watch' it when the motor starts. When the Stat opens the water will suddenly drop a LOT, THATS when you add additional water. I leave the rad cap off with a new motor until I'm SURE I got all the air out and all the water in. There is an air bleed 'spigot' on the top side of my ERA radiator. The radiator is BELOW the surge tank and air can get trapped in there. When I fill the rad I open that valve to let air out and more water in.