Shift Point

[Burgs]

I've got that same motor, with a tko600, and a 3.50 9" rear gear, and I've got a few suggestions for you.

First, put the shift-light right in the middle of your line of site somehow. You will NOT want to take your eyes off of what's in front of you if your stomping on the go-fast pedal.

Second, the first gear shift light will come real quick, so wherever you set the rev limit, start with a shift point well south of that to start with, and move it up from there.

Third, good luck getting thru second gear without lifting!

[Nantucket427]

I don't see the need to run up to 6 grand, you are just looking for trouble. I wouldn't worry about shift points. Your numbers and the weight of our cars make traction your problem. I have an orginal 427 with only one more refresh in her. It makes all the power I need before 5000 and never breaks a thing.

[Tommy]

The following is an academic answer that may not hold up to scrutiny from real drag racers, but here goes. Assuming traction is not an issue, acceleration is primarily a function of engine torque. Your shift point should be such that your RPM at the shift is just as far above your peak torque RPM as your new RPM is below after the gear change. For example, if your engine drops from about 5400 RPM in 3rd to 4000 RPM in 4th, you'll stay within 700 RPM of your peak torque in both gears. As you get to higher speeds, wind resistance and horsepower become more important, so higher RPM help.