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Stuck Clutch
I have a 428 FE big block from Southern Automotive (which runs awesome). However, since I had the engine sitting for about a year, the clutch seems to be stuck. I have read a myriad of threads on this similar condition throughout the boards (FFR & CC). I believe I have tried all the potential remedies listed. I need some help. This is the last item I need to sort out before putting the body on the car. I would like to avoid taking the car to a shop to a professional.
My drive train consists of a 4 speed top loader utilizing a pull type wildwood slave cylinder. The master cylinder is 1” from wildwood as well. Here is the situation and the remedies I have tried: The clutch fork travels about 1 inch or more. However, there is a significant amount of back pressure on the pedal. The TO bearing appears to be in alignment. The following techniques were utilized to break the clutch free: 1.) I adjusted the clutch fork on the pull rod so that it was progressively closer down the “pull path” of the slave cylinder. I added almost a half inch of progress but with no avail 2.) I placed the trans into 1st gear, pushed in the clutch and started the engine. I had my first unexpected go kart ride. I tried this method a couple of times but to no avail. 3.) I placed the car on jack stands. I then put the car in gear and started the car. I then proceeded to rev the engine up to about 4,000 RPM. Once at this RPM, I pushed in the clutch then applied the brakes. I tried this technique in different gears and even reverse to no avail What other options should I pursue before having to dismantle the bell housing and inspect the clutch and/or rebuild? Thank You, Khan |
Had that happen to me once. I got the car started by cranking the starter with the trans in gear. It lurched and bucked and finally fired up and away I went (like your go kart thing). I then NAILED it HARD! I was surprised how hard and how long I had to hold throttle on it before the clutch finally freed itself. Worked like a champ after that!
I think your onto something with the 'go kart' thing, just didn't 'nail it' hard enough/long enough to break her loose yet. |
Stuck Clutch
Had the same problem with my FIA. No amount of pushing, pulling and or hard acceleration would break the clutch free. In the end, I removed the trans, bell housing and had to pry the clutch disc off the flywheel. Once back together, I went out immediately and ran about 100 miles. Never had another problem. BY the way I am running a hydralic TO bearing which may be a different set up, however the force required to free my clutch disc was substantial.
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LOL....I think I remember reading your (excalibur) post when I was researching this problem. I live in NJ in the suburbs which doesn't afford me the chance to nail this bad boy....although I was tempted! If NJ wasn't crawling with cops, I would consider it. Without renting a trailer and driving my car out to the boonies, I need to find another option. Thanks for the awesome image!
Khan |
What type of pressure plate do you have?
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I am not sure off the top of my head. I will need to check at home what type of pressure plate I have.
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Thanks Anthony. I have read this thread as well (and the referenced FFR thread) and have tried most of the items. The only ones I haven't tried are the pry bar against the clutch fork (which I will try), the screw driver to pry off the plate(can't do this without taking off the bell housing which I want to avoid) and also loosening the clutch cover bolts (which again, means taking off the bell housing which I would like to avoid). The TO bearing moves fine as well.
Anyway, thanks for posting the link. I talked with Southern Automotive engine builder today. I ran through what I have been through thus far and he didn't have any more ideas. Said I would need get into the clutch. This means taking out the driveline, trans, bellhousing, etc. I am going to have to use the help of my local mechanic as I can't do it by myself. Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions. If anyone has any other ideas, please let me know. Best Regars, Khan |
Take the gokart out on the street and use a tow strap and tow it behind an SUV. DO NOT START IT. Put it in first gear, hold the clutch pedal in and have the person drag you down the street until it breaks free. Generally it doesn't take more than 200ft.
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If you put it in third or fourth, it will produce more torque to the actual input shaft.
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Mine was stuck SO bad (how bad was it?), SO bad I had to hit about 4000 rpm and pulling like a freight train before it broke loose. While holding the clutch pedal down of course.
I to live on a very SHORT street just before I get to the main road. I did this at night and had a 'spotter' for pedestrians and such. I was right at the main road before it broke loose. I was thinking if the clutch does not release I'm in deep trouble trying to make a u-turn without being able to stop and get back home. Whew, got lucky! :D |
I've always done it in first or second.......
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Dragging the car, floor it with the clutch in, etc....Is it that hard to pull the trans? Why put that kind of abuse on the drive train. Just pull the trans and bell housing. By the time you pull the pressure plate off you will know what the problem is.
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I wouldn't drag it myself, man is THAT going to be hard to get the car moving with the back tires sliding along. I don't think any 'damage' per se would be encountered, well, until the slack in the chain came up and the front bumper/attachment was ripped off!
Crank with the starter and drive is the only method I'd use. Yeah, it IS a bear pulling the dang trans on mine. I would go to extremes to avoid it if possible. :D |
Khansmith, IMHO Excaliber's method is the only one that will work without removing the clutch cover...but I would suggest a small modification that worked very well for me, broke it loose in less than half a block: start it in first gear (with clear room in front, of course!), get it rolling and short shift into second gear (obviously, without a clutch), THEN nail it with the clutch pedal in. Notice you will need three feet for this operation. That will put more torque on the disc as mentioned above, and break it loose fairly quickly...just get a spotter and pick the "right" time :-)
Let us know how it goes. |
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For those that have had this problem, what have you determined was the cause? The reason I ask is that I've never heard of this problem before until I bought a Cobra and started visiting these forums.
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It's common for Cobras to sit for a long while during construction and it's common for them to have a really high pressure clutch cover plate/spring pressure setup. The clutch disc is sandwhiched between the flywheel and pressure plate (clutch cover plate) under this great pressure. Moisture and pressure could be one reason the clutch disc wants to 'bond' with the flywheel and/or pressure plate. Dust/dirt on the surfaces during installation could add to the problem (glue). Any kind of dissimilar surfaces tend to 'glue' themselves together over time, and under pressure. Could happen to any car given the right conditions. I've encountered this problem on various cars over the years, all with one thing in common. They sat for an extended period of time.
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Thanks for the explanation. I've built many cars that have sat for more than a year prior to the first start. Several fellow members of the NCRS have spent 5+ years restoring their cars without a problem. Maybe it's an enviromental issue. I have one car that gets driven once or twice a year and I've never had a clutch issue.
I see you're in Hawaii. That explains alot. I spend every Feb. on Maui and I can't believe the corrosion on relatively new cars. Gotta love that salt air. |
I grew up in Oregon and had that issue a couple of times there as well, could be a moisture issue. Had a stuck clutch on a VW there, we DID drag around that car with the tractor (when I was young man), freed the clutch but darn near ripped the body off the car 'getting r done'. :LOL:
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