Fly Wheel hitting Blowsheild??????

[DBcsx4872]

I put ten miles on my new cobra and it sounded like the starter solnoid died, one click. We then removed the transmission and tried to turn the engine over, and it was clearly the flywheel that was stuck. After removing the scattershield we saw teeth marks in the inside of the sheild and the engine turned again. The fly wheel was mising three teeth in three diferent areas. The engine is a 1966 428 PI. The flywheel is a McLeod aluminum flywheel. The starter is a rebuilt Autolite. I am hoping that it was just the teeth that came off making those marks and not the actual flywheel hitting. We also speculated that maybe the McLoud flywheel sat further back than a stock flywheel, thus touching the bell bousing as it starts to curve inward, but appearently the McCloud specs are the same. Hopefully a new ringgear and starter that meshes better will solve my problems. However, has anyone ever heard of a flywheel touching the acctual scatter sheild and it was lined up correctly????? If so does anyone know of different combinations of starter/flywheel/scatter sheild combos? Thanks for your help.

[convincor]

Lakewood scatter sheild??
Was it indexed per install instructions??

[Tim Brewer]

It is impossible for the flywheel to hit the bellhousing, you either have the wrong flywheel or starter or perhaps maybe it's the flywheel is on backwards?(I don't think it's possible though). Check your part #'s with David Kee, he would know.

[vettestr]

I had a car brought to me without the steel block plate. This moved the scatter shield toward the front of the block. Another clue was of course the open bolt holes that the plate allow fastening or fixture too. Did you have about 8 holes in the S-shield without bolts? Did you dial indicate the input shaft to the center opening to locate or check the tranny was centered in the opening ?
If scatter shield was not centered or matched to crank centerline the S - shield could be shifted one way or the other making it closer to the flywheel on one side of the 360 degree possible.

[D-CEL]

If the flywheel was hitting the housing when you started the motor for the first time, it would have been making terrible noises. Is it possible the the locating dowels were not installed, fell out or were damaged in some way that allowed the housing/trans assembly to move once load was applied during you drive?

Thats would be my first guess.

Jason

[DBcsx4872]

It has been my experience that it is dam near imposible for a fly wheel to hit the scatter sheild. That is if it is not comming through the foot box at 8000 rpms. I was hoping your collective experience would support my own experience, which it has. There was no horrible noise upon starting the car, which I would have expected. The bolts were all there and tight. The indicator pins were in line. The flywheel was on the right way. The only thing I have never heard before is that the crank could have been off center. The engine was leaking oil, not much, from the rear main bearing which I hoped would seat itself and stop leaking. I am interested to know more about the flywheel being off center. I am also interested to know what the difference is with a lakewood bellhousing. Overall, I am prying this doesn't happen again, and that it was just the starter ripping teeth off the flywheel.

[convincor]

here's detailed set-up
http://www.priveye.com/images/lakewood.htm

[jimmymac]

What nobody ever had a linebored block. It moves the crank up in the block. My lakewood hit after alighment. Just take a die grinder and make some clearance where it hits. That all!

[Tim Brewer]

Jimmy, lineboring doesn't move the crank or the cam, it simpley corrects out of round bores and makes sure everything aligns up perfectly.

[vettestr]

Hey DB,
Hope you have her all figured out. The brought up confusion about crank being Off Center inyour reply on post #6 ('"The only thing I have never heard before is that the crank could have been off center. ") I replied on post #4 so want to make sure I am not causing the misunderstanding.
I think we are good but I am not saying the crank could be installed off center or something, I was saying the cranks centerline and the tranny centerline could not be mis-aligned at the scatter shield.
Thanks Jeff c AKA Vettestr

[RICK LAKE]

DBcsx4872 You didnot say which bell housing you have? I hope it is a lakewood, I don't like the multi piece others. Does your bell housing have an engine block plate behind the flywheel? If yes good, if not you need one. Next was the bellhousing aligned and centered to the crank? If yes good, If not you need a magnetic bace and dial indicator to center bellhousing. Next you will need to check the clearance between the starter gear and the flywheel teeth, .030-.040" where the engagement is. A heavy paperclip will work great for the tight area. Check the starter contact points in 3 other locations for the same clearance. If not good, the flywheel or end of crank is out of round or bent. Is the flywheel hitting in 1 spot or more? You may have the wrong bellhousing. This should cover the list of possible problems. 1 thing to check is the lenght on the flywheel bolts to the crank and may sure they are not hitting the back of the block, and the clutch pressure plate bolts for the same problem, hitting the backing plate or starter. The flywheel bolts my not have been bolted to torque spec Good luck Rick L Ps. I have seen the last idea happen more than once.

[jimmymac]

Tim You must be thinking of line HONING, not line boring Know the difference? Ever heard of a large timing gear for overly line bored engines. without it you will think your new chain is to long!