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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2007, 06:58 AM
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Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #593,427 S.O.
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Question Fe Cam Recommendation?

Need some tips on a cam for a 427 S.O. in a 65 Comet A/FX replica. In my ERA Cobra I ran a custom Crane Solid-Lifter Roller after my Crane mechanical lifter cam destroyed itself on start-up. I was never able to nail down the cause--poor oil, soft cam, no one knows. But Crane made it right.

After living with a solid lifter roller for a few years, I became concerned about heavy spring pressures and rumors that these cams are only good for 5-6K miles before causing trouble.

I'm looking for a good street cam--2500-5500 RPM--good sound in a finished car that will weigh approx. 3200 pounds.

Are mechanical solid lifters the way to go or do you have a hydraulic lifter model to recommend? Car will not be raced---just street duty.

It has a w/ratio David Kee Toploader 4 speed with either a 3:89 or 4:10 gear with a 27-28 inch rear tire.

Would you run stock Ford rocker set-up or go to something aftermarket?

Thanks-Dandy Don
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Old 10-25-2007, 07:19 AM
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Cobra Make, Engine: 427SO with big twin autolite inlines on custom intake, jag rear, top loader, wembeldon white, guardsmen blue stripes
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I like mine...

Reed Cams grind....

540-T282UL-T286UL-106A2

In. 597 Ex. 609

7 inches vaccum

inital 18 degrees BTDC

Will not idle until temp reaches 160
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Old 10-25-2007, 07:20 AM
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I would look at the hyd roller cams. Due to emission requirements, oils of today are just not up to the needs of solid lifter camshafts. Do a search on oil here on Club Cobra...
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Old 10-25-2007, 07:23 AM
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That may be true but, 1 cup of MoS2 will solve that problem...
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Old 10-25-2007, 07:36 AM
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Default Solid Lifter

I run an solid lifter cam because that is the way they were. Todays oil is not what it should be, so I go to an oil that was made for a diesel motor
http://www.pennzoil.com/products/lon...shorthaul.html
Recommended by Phil Miller, Miller Machine, Haverhill, MA
no problems They are an old drag racers shop that recently completed a cammer.
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Old 10-25-2007, 07:56 AM
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Just read data sheet for the pennzoil you recommended and no ZINC?

This link list oils with minimum ZINC requirements

http://www.durangoclub.com/faq/Technical.html

IMHO MoS2 is best
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Old 10-25-2007, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nantucket427
I run an solid lifter cam because that is the way they were.
And you run bias tires with solid brake disks?
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Old 10-25-2007, 09:35 AM
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C3AZ-6250-D
A number that I'll never forget!!!
What was the question???

Lash setting .027
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Old 10-25-2007, 10:02 AM
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Why yes Tom, I do run bias tires and solid rotors, on the rear at least. Not all of us are 'racing', and accepting the standard issue setup (from ERA in my case) helps keep costs within reason.

I run bias tires because I love the look of the Goodyear Bill Boards, as I know you do to.

As for my cam, I lost a solid roller at about 8,000 miles, which led to the rebuild of my motor. I went with flat tappet and was CAREFUL to follow a strict install/break in game plan. The cam now has 4000 miles and is working fine.

It's a fairly straight forward game plan:
Use an oil additive, like EOS and cam lube, during breakin.
Remove the inner valve springs during breakin period.
Pre prime the oil pump.
Make SURE the engine is ready to start up right away, avoid prolonged cranking to try to get it to start.
Bring the rpm up to 2000 and vary it from there for about 20-30 minutes. Flat tappet cams are largely 'splash fed', so the rpm MUST be held up to afford lubrication during the critical break in phase.
I put a couple of hundred miles on my engine at reasonable rpm levels before I re-installed the inner valve springs.

Comp Cam 292S, as specified by 'Gessford Machine'. Pulls well from about 2000 (even lower) and tops out around 6200, all though 6400 still feels strong.

Last edited by Excaliber; 10-25-2007 at 10:31 AM..
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Old 10-25-2007, 10:10 AM
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Ernie

We did about the same thing in our top fuel motors
Lost a roller and had needles all over--went to flat tappets---set records at every track we ran at including the NHRA national record

Jerry
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Old 10-25-2007, 10:31 AM
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Interesting Jerry. One other thing that should be mentioned is get the "Cam Kit", that will match the springs to the profile, very important which ever cam you run. Oh, and I was careful to do the best I could to make sure the LIFTERS were rotating properly in their bore, it they don't rotate you will loose the cam no matter what.

Last edited by Excaliber; 10-25-2007 at 10:33 AM..
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Old 10-25-2007, 11:07 AM
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Maybe this has been discussed before but has anyone used CASTROL SYNTEC 20W-50-a high–zinc formula specially engineered for classic engines:

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/gener...ace=5001199955
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Old 10-25-2007, 11:42 AM
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Tom

Back then they were drum brakes, even on the 66 390 gt, discs didn't show up for a couple years

Jerry
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Old 10-25-2007, 11:57 AM
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Default What are you going to do with the car Don??

Dandy Don, What is the car for?? Cruising ,racing, shows?? What find of power are you looking for. 400hp?500hp?600hp??? What fuel system are you running, Webers, Carb, (what size CFM's), Fuel injection? Head work? what compression are you running? Trying to stay with 91 0ctane? A little more info is neede before point you in the right direction. A hydro roller cam with about .600" is a good place to start. KCR also makes some custom cams that sound good and have good power bands. If this is a stroker motor you can run a bigger cam, if you are in the 390-428 range, I wouldn't go over a .620" lift cam and stay on the street. Either way you need to add a peroiler to the motor to stop dry starts on the motor. a bottle of EOS oil supplement or Lucas additive would also help. Dry starts is what killed the roller cam or lifters. without pressure oiling the bearing in the lifters are hammered. You also have the .020-.030 valve clearance for solid lifters. This causes hammering of the lifters on the lobes of the cam also or the little bearing being worn out in the lifter body. Give some more info on what you want the car to do and power range. Rick L. if you want to talk about this call me in the evenings after 8:00pm est time. 732-254-3536 Ps Your car is not this heavy, and the gearing is way too high unless you are drag racing only. 3.31 ratio for the rear to start or lower to a 3.07. Call me and we can talk. Yes I did stay at a Holiday Inn, 2 weeks ago for Run&Gun
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Old 10-25-2007, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton
Tom

Back then they were drum brakes, even on the 66 390 gt, discs didn't show up for a couple years

Jerry
Original (260, 289, and 427) Cobras have 4 wheel disc brakes.
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Last edited by Tom Kirkham; 10-25-2007 at 08:41 PM..
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Old 10-25-2007, 08:47 PM
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The poster stated 1965 Comet AFX
Drum brakes 5 on 4.5 BC
9 inch Ford rear
Oh, yeh, 427 high riser dual quads, all the RITE stuff, but no disc brakes or radial tires

And .027 valve lash
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Old 10-25-2007, 08:51 PM
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It is almost impossible to select a correct cam for a street performance engine without knowing at least a few minor details…

What is the grade of fuel?
Total displacement of combustion chamber at TDC?
Desired cruise rpm?
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Old 10-25-2007, 10:02 PM
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I guess I've been pretty fortunate on my last two FE powered Cobras with standard Comp cams and custom ground solid lifter flat tappet cams by Crower; and running Castrol and Shell Rotella oil on my last cam. So far so good, and knock on wood.
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Last edited by decooney; 10-25-2007 at 10:06 PM..
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Old 10-25-2007, 11:54 PM
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Rodknock, that new Castrol Syntec looks very interesting, thanks for the link. First I've heard of it.
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Old 10-26-2007, 12:10 PM
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Default Dragon snakes where running Jag rearend?

Tom Kirkham Dragonsnakes where all running Jag rearends? I thought some had a solid rearend. KCR had a set of pulleys on his show motor for a 427, What is the price? and do you have them in stock? Rick L.
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