Very high oil pressure

[RICK LAKE]

Jerry Clayton Jerry not being a pro builder but from my own experiments with different motors, AMC, Pontiac, Hemi 426, SBC, and now Learning about FE motors from both here and the FE forum, The lighter the wieght of the rods and piston assemblies for a FE motor the less oil pressure you can run. I have not seen a bearing that was errioded from high oil pressure, a couple of people said this happens, I am still waiting for some + proof this happens. As far as oil filters blowing apart with cold startups, I am around 6. Most on an AMC motor in my jeep, the front diff hits the oil filter housing and bends the aluminium bore where the pressure release valve is, If the valve is closed and will not open, 150 psi and blown filters, if stuck open on oil pressure to motor. The Fram filters have a high blow rate, just the single filter ones, Fuel motors run them. I have had good luck with baldwins also. I talked to the Maker of the polymer gear and he said there is a special formula for the disturbutor gears that makes them hard enough but will not break over pressure or heat cycles in the motor. He said that there is no wear if a little lube is used between the 2 gears, only needs a drip, not a flow. My 498 motor is going with a drysump system. They now make the oil tank to fit in the R/S front fender. I am not cutting my fender up for the fill cap. I also want to enlarger the tank for another 2+ quarts of oil. I am still going with the 80+ psi for racing. I believe that you still need high pressure for certain parts of the motor like bearings, the oil hydro lifts the rods to stop metal to metal contact of the crank. I also believe that you need alot of oil in the heads to help cool the valve springs in racing conditions. I have .010" grooves in my block (lifter Bores) for the oil to run down on the roller lifters and cam lobes. The crane lifters have a small hole in the bottom of the housing for spray to this location but I wanted more. I am looking at spray bars for the valve covers when I build the next motor. It will be easy with a drysump pump setup. Any time I have seen a gear get chewed up in a motor, the metal pieces find there way into the pump and filter. I would always replace the pump, drive shaft if possible and gear. It just makes good sense. A coupld of oil changes also to help remove any particles you might miss in dropping the pan. I have seen chewed up gears where all the metal stayed in the oil pan. Those are the lucky people. Rick L. Jerry I am not sure about the amp thing?? I only ran a mag once and found out that the motor ran just as good on an old accell super coil and +300 box with an accell distributor. I now run MSD with an HVC coil and the spark will kill you. I have been zapped twice and it took 3 days to get the taste out of my mouth.