Very high oil pressure

[Jerry Clayton]

IOts the amount of oil you pump that costs power, not the pressure---sort a like torque and horse power---

The old 10 # per 1000ppm is a rule of thumb that has been used for years, even by me, it only means that if you have 10/1000 that you have flow which is what counts

Even today, with out 500 mopars we see very little pressure indicate from running very lite oil, but the flow is there---too bad we don't have flow meters instead of pressure guages

The FE engines are just like all other engines--the crank don't know what the valve cover says--

It is not PRESSURE that keeps the rod bearings off the crank pin, it is the shear strength properties of the oil

Non foaming oil has additives that break down the shear strenth of the oil film--don't run them

If you have a foaming problem, your oil system isn't what it needs to be

Restricting the oil to the top end is one of the worst things you can do to an engine

Got work to do

Jerry

[RICK LAKE]

PatBuckley Pat how can you say the cosworth-ford motor is the same as an FE Not even close. About the only thing they have in common is sucking air and fuel, and spinning round. Rpm ranges double to triple of an FE. Assembly wieght of crank,rods and pistons, 1/2 to 1/4 of an FE assembly. The only thing that should break in the FE oiling system is the sheer pin in the distributor gear and shaft. The shaft may twist and break but I only saw this on oem shafts. How many races did your cosworth motor run before a rebuild or tear down? 1 if you are smart. With the price of parts for that motor, 1 race ,1 rebuild. Was is the clearances on the rods and mains for your motor.0035-.004" mains and .0027-.0035? Great for a race motor, this motor would drop dead on the street. I think you know this. If you are running an Aluminium block like a shelby with steel caps for the mains, I am around .002" or less without any problems at this time, rods are also in the .002"-.0022". There is 2 different worlds between racing and street driving with looking for 100K on a street motor. On most motors, Chevys, the 10 per 1000 is ok, IMO this doesn't apply to a small bearing heavy rod FE motor. Rick L.

[Woodz428]

I think Jerry indicates pretty much what I think. They used to use a term "washing the bearings", which was applied to engines with so much pressure that the oil didn't stay long enough within the bearing area to create a film to carry the load. I don't know what clearances were being used, but bearings all bleed off and in order to increase pressure you have to pump the oil through the passages faster. It would seem that this actually prevents a film barier from being created.the They usually suffered from fried bearings.I also agree that it is volume more than pressure that is needed.

[RICK LAKE]

woodz428 I which I had a camera to show the bearings I took out of my motor. The coatings are still on the bearings both rod and mains. The mains in my motor are also FULL groove, not 3/4 groove like the new set I got with my stroker kit. The oil acts as a cushion on the power stroke more than any other stroke. The oil is squeezed out on this stroke the other 3 strokes don't give the same condition. If you looked at a 3/4 bearing and a full groove bearing and see the amount of space that there is NO material, you guys might rethink your theorys. The gap is 1/8" with no material. In the old days this is why crossdrilling was done to give full time oil feed to crank and rod bearings. Your term washing the bearing in my book is either gas or coolant got into the motor and the motor was run. It looks like a milkshake in the motor. Bottom line 95% of the motors are done. Coolant acts like a abrasive in the oil and eats away at the metal. Gas thins oil, the oil and there is no lubercate properties left in the oil and again the same problem on metal rubbing metal. These motors will run when cold with good oil pressure but when the oil mixture is hot at idle, no pressure I did over 100 motor for Caddie in 95-98 with coolant in the motors, the same with 3.1 and 3.4 motors in 99-2005. The intakes leaked into the motors (coolant) and when the low coolant lights came on 85% of the time it was TOO LATE. I have talked to some of the old top FE builders and endurance motor builders, this is an old motor, these guys have alot more info, knowledge and still build FE's for a living. I will stay with old school. Your volume and pressure theory depends on what part of the motor the oil is being used on. Valve springs, yes for alot of oil to help cool the springs and rockers, I don't want alot in the valley of the lifters. I run .080" oil restricters to my rockers arms and both heads are full to the pushrod holes. I also run from 1-2 quarts of extra oil We can save this for another thread. No problem yet with the either when you are pulling a G in road course or autocross. Rick L.

[PatBuckley]

Jesus Rick, you're like a rabid dog! Did I phucking well say that an FE and a Cosworth are the same?

I only mentioned the Cosworth to illustrate that low pressure isn't the bad thing that everyone thinks it is. Cosworth recommended 800 miles between rebuilds - which worked fine. Doesn't have anything to do with being smart.

Bearing clearances on that were about the same as I ran on my aluminum block 482 - .0025 - .0003