Engine quit

[RICK LAKE]

double ugly, check to see the rotor is spinning and that the rotor is on #1 cylinder in the cap and the timing marks are on TDC#1 cylinder. You may have broken the pin on the bottom of the distributor. I have seen some spin ( the rotors and others not spin. You get spark but timing is so far out you will not get and trying to start condition. The spark should be about 1" long. Blue spark is better bright orange is ok too. If you have a volt meter check for power to the coil. Are you running a ballast resistor on this current? When they go bad some cause no spark others have weak spark. Have had the winding in the ballast melt the wire winding and reconnect when the wire cools off. Car will start and run until wire gets hot on looses contact and car stops running. There must be a tech number to call for the pertronix to check out that the module is getting and sending signals. Check the powers and grounds first. You Have Fuel and Air, only thing left is a spark problem. Rick L. Ps most coils in the old days fire a blue spark, some of the oil filled coils fire blue. Most of the e-coils fire a bright orange. There is a tester you can get at the auto parts store for about $20.00 that all you have to do is plug in the one end to a plug wire and the other to ground. If you get spark, you need to look at other things. The spark has to jump a min of 1/2" for good spark. Spark should look like a welding strike. I would double check the pin in the bottom of the distributor, Pull it and try and spin the rotor without the bottom gear moving in your hand. Easy way is to see if you have oil pressure. Sorry just thought of this. Oil pressure, pins ok, no pressure, problem.