Reconditioning Used Fe Heads?

[Keithc8]

Here is what we do with used FE heads. Dis-assemble the heads completely then bake, tumble, crack check and tap all holes if everything checks out well. The heads will need bronze guide liners or bronze guides. Hardened exhaust seats installed, new valve job done, deck of heads surfaced along with the exhaust side that will probably be warped. You will need new valves, springs and seals at least and more than likely locks. You might be able to use the retainers depending on the springs that you use. If you use a dual spring you will have to machined the heads for dual springs and a positive stop seal. This is what pretty much has to be done to any used heads to bring them up to a decent head. This will normally run about the cost of the new Edelbrock heads if they are done right. This why we sell very few original heads any more except when required by the rules or a restoration. If they are not done right you will have them back of in about 2000 to 5000 miles fixing them because of worn out guides or the exhaust valve sunk into the heads. Good luck, Keith

[RICK LAKE]

428street Take the heads to an FE builder to be checked over. Have them checked for cracks between the valve seats. straightness. I good pressure test for internal cracks. As far a other work on the heads like bigger valves, porting It would be cheaper to go with a set of heads done. To make 400HP it would be easier to get a set of Edelbrocks with the porting and valves done. You don't need a large cam for this kind of power. You could sell your heads to offset the price of the Elebrocks. Are you going to paint the motor? You can fill the edelbrock logo in with epoxy and sand it. I couple coats of paint and nobody will know. The hydro cam from crane ,.533"-.563 Will give you a nice sound and running car. Don't worry about HP. Build a torque motor with 500 ft.of torque. If you don't have the short block built, STROKER it with a 4.25 crank and rods. Barry R sells a great kit that is balanced, comes with a crank, rods, pistons, rings and bearings. If you go with a little bigger motor, a cam can be larger. I have gone from a 452 with .501-.533" hdryo cam which made 360hp and 458ft. of torque with 9.2 compression. I now have a 482 with a small hydro roller cam at .587-.607" and 10.2 compression. I can't give you the dyno numbers, but they are almost the same as Chaplin in motor in his car. I am guessing in the 450hp and 550-570ft of torque. The other 2 notes I will give you is going with a set of Erson roller rockers. Best bang for the buck. I am very happy with mine. If you are looking for a little more power and have the extra money, a set of beehive springs from comp cams for the heads. The motor is stronger and has better valve and rocker control in both the low and upper range of the motor. Real world numbers is 15-23 HP at 6,000 rpm. Picks up 4-8hp in the low range. Add a 6K chip to you MSD for the rev limiter. If you want to talk about this, call me or give me a number to call you at, 732-254-3536 Rick L. Ps what trans are you going with? What rearend ratio are you going with? You might want to look into the superstreet richmond 5 speed with the 2.87 first gear and the .77 overdrive. This trans is good for 600HP and torque. ERA sells the correct handle for the orginial look. Keep the rear gears in the 3.07 or 3.31.

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by Keithc8

Here is what we do with used FE heads. Dis-assemble the heads completely then bake, tumble, crack check and tap all holes if everything checks out well. The heads will need bronze guide liners or bronze guides. Hardened exhaust seats installed, new valve job done, deck of heads surfaced along with the exhaust side that will probably be warped. You will need new valves, springs and seals at least and more than likely locks. You might be able to use the retainers depending on the springs that you use. If you use a dual spring you will have to machined the heads for dual springs and a positive stop seal. This is what pretty much has to be done to any used heads to bring them up to a decent head. This will normally run about the cost of the new Edelbrock heads if they are done right. This why we sell very few original heads any more except when required by the rules or a restoration. If they are not done right you will have them back of in about 2000 to 5000 miles fixing them because of worn out guides or the exhaust valve sunk into the heads. Good luck, Keith

What Keith said is spot on.....When building my 66 GT-350 (clone) some 13 years ago, I decided to use a very early set of 351-W factory heads, cause I already had them...I did as much work on them as I could and by the time they were finished and put on my motor, I could have bought ANY set of aluminum heads out on the market at that time!!!!!!!!!!! and I still have an old set of heavy iron heads on my motor!!!!!!!!!!

David

[RICK LAKE]

428street Have you checked into blue thunder heads? The other would be the shelby heads. I know my Shelby heads flowwed better than 300cfm out of the box on intake. The other thing is, you are limiting your rpm through heads, cam and exhaust parts. It's better to have the parts in the motor and not use them, then wish you had done it before you built the motor. If you give the specs on the motor you are looking to build, I could give you a rough HP and torque numbers. Need from carb to oil pan for the specs. Rick L.