need (advice) help with changing head gaskets on my 427

[shelby racer]

Okay, the cobra is finally registered and now it has coolant coming out of a side pipe. I have pulled the intake and taken the nuts off the head studs but can not get the the heads off the motor - the foot boxes are in the way. I have tried to take the nuts off the motor mounts and jack up the motor bu the scatter shield hits the firewall before I can get enough clearance. Will disconnecting the tranny from the motor and then jacking the motor up give me enough clearance? It is in a csx 4000 Shelby. I REALLY don't want to have to pull the motor out of the car. Thanks.
John(;-)

[undy]

If the head studs are ARP and they're not too old then they have a female allen head. If so, spin out the head studs with the appropriate 3/8" drive allen wrench and then slide/remove the heads. if not, there's always vice grips..

Dave

[RICK LAKE]

Shelby Racer If you can find a Tool dealer local, Snap-on,Macto, Mac or Cornwell they all sell a stud remover that looks like a socket with 3 round bars in it. I don't have a SEAR's catalog but they might sell them 2. Check Jeg's or Summit in there tool catalog. They come in a 4 pack. Make sure you have the right size. They work good as long as you have 1/2" of thread to hook on to. If you are just trying to loosen the studs, get 2 small pieces of 2/4 and lift the head. You can get all the studs with a small vicegrip. This works but is a little barbaric. IMO and I know this is a pain in the A$$ is pull the motor and not have to worry about ANY damage to the car from dropping tools or anything else. Rick L.

[Clois Harlan]

I have been there and recently, but you might need to disconnect your steering shaft to gain a little more access. However, if you are pushing water through the side pipe and I assume it is on your drivers side probably pistons 6 and 7, you may want to pull the engine and do it right. Or if you want to wait until this fall to do it get some bars stop leak and follow the instructions on the bottle and see if that helps. This stuff works pretty well in fact it got me through Run and Gun last year until I could pull my engine and resurface the heads and block.

Good luck with whatever you decide.
\
Clois

[Danr55]

BG Products make a stop leak that works better than any of the others. It won't build up anywhere but where the leak is.

[flipscobra]

I just replaced the passenger side head gasket in a superformance with a 427 BB. I didnt want to pull the head either. It has studs to, so I jacked up the motor an shifted it to the drivers side as far as I could, then I put a block under the motor support on the passenger side an let the motor down. This will roll the motor enought to get your head off.

[shelby racer]

Thanks everyone. I have decided to pull the studs - pull the heads and replace the studs with ARP head bolts. I unfortunately could not get the motor high enough with the tranny connected to clear the motor mounts and try to roll it. My new head bolts should be here from summit monday.
John(;-)

[Sal Gerace]

Pulling an engine from a CSX in no joke. Seats, Trans tunnel, trans and all the hoses need to be removed/disconnected. It's at least a full days job with a lift. I would do whatever it takes to get the studs out!. Remember to drain the coolant from the block, although you will still get a little collant spill when you remove the head. Order an extra fender cover or two if needed.

[xlr8or]

When my engine was assembled there one bolt/stud that is smaller diameter than the others for oil flow to the top of the head. Make sure that gets put in the right place and the new head gasket doesn't block the passage.

[shelby racer]

After double nutting (with a jam nut) taking the top head studs out, lifting / rolling the motor with a jack and a piece of wood I got the heads off. I pulled the lower studs with the heads off. I am cleaning everything off and waiting for my summit order (new arp head bolts). Any special things to look out for / assembley tip are appreciated. Solid lifter flat tappet cam - so all the studs / bolts are the same.