Various 427 Questions, New Member

[Excaliber]

Wow, I'm impressed! Like ZOERA said, you got some good stuff, I'd stay the course, and that includes the '69 FE block. I'd also go flat tappet cam, myself, NOT a solid roller for sure! You do have the option of looking into a hydraulic roller as the 69 block would support that. Once you figure out your peak rpm range (6000-6500?) then you can start to match the heads to that number. Why run heads capable of supporting 7000 if your only going 6200 or whatever, kind of thing. Same for the intake, whats the target rpm range? Once you get that nailed down you can figure out what rear end gear ratio or your final drive ratio (in case of an OD type trans) would work best with your package.

I had a killer 427 side oiler, over 600 horse, with a solid roller stick that didn't 'come on the cam' until 3000 rpm or so. Which was really a drag when I found myself stuck in traffic with a high rear end ratio and had to drop a gear to keep the rpm up and the motor happy! I rebuilt with a milder cam, smaller carbs, gave up about a 150 horse and didn't even miss it! MPG doubled, streetability was vastly improved and the lower compression allows for 'pump gas' and it's STILL dang near as fast as it was before! 11.90 with 600 plus horse and open headers vs 11.99 with 500 horse and running the SIDE PIPES! You see the key is, 'traction limited', if you can't hook up more than 500 horse, whats the point of having more? I want to DRIVE to the track and 'run what I brung', not screw around with slicks or whatever.

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by Excaliber

Wow, I'm impressed! Like ZOERA said, you got some good stuff, I'd stay the course, and that includes the '69 FE block. I'd also go flat tappet cam, myself, NOT a solid roller for sure! You do have the option of looking into a hydraulic roller as the 69 block would support that. Once you figure out your peak rpm range (6000-6500?) then you can start to match the heads to that number.

That's exactly my thinking, sort out the RPM range (you hit the nail on the head at 6-6500) and build it out from there.

Originally Posted by Excaliber

I want to DRIVE to the track and 'run what I brung', not screw around with slicks or whatever.

I have been bored out of my mind since coming to Houston in 2004...and so living only 60 miles from the world famous Texas World Speedway I want to be able to drive up, run the track and drive home.

Thanks for the feedback on this.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Excaliber

I'd also go flat tappet cam, myself, NOT a solid roller for sure!

I think he means solid, flat tappet. I always post a praise or two about solid flat tappets in an FE, but I tend to get shot down by the roller and hydraulic crowd. Especially some guy named Lykins...

[Anthony]

My advice, get a new block, either a genesis iron side oiler, or pond/shelby aluminum block. One thing to remember is that if you are going to run solid lifters, an iron block will start easier when cold, as compared with an aluminum block, in which the lash will be very tight when cold, and the engine harder to start. However, an alumunum block is easier to repair if damaged.

Originally Posted by Excaliber

I had a killer 427 side oiler, over 600 horse, with a solid roller stick that didn't 'come on the cam' until 3000 rpm or so. Which was really a drag when I found myself stuck in traffic with a high rear end ratio and had to drop a gear to keep the rpm up and the motor happy! I rebuilt with a milder cam, smaller carbs, gave up about a 150 horse and didn't even miss it! MPG doubled, streetability was vastly improved and the lower compression allows for 'pump gas' and it's STILL dang near as fast as it was before! 11.90 with 600 plus horse and open headers vs 11.99 with 500 horse and running the SIDE PIPES!

that's because your 600 hp engine wasn't really making 600 hp. If it was, you should have been running mid 10's at 130 mph. If you're just as fast with your new engine as your old engine, then they are making about the same average hp.