427 side oiler engine build "Blog"

[Excaliber]

I don't have a Web Site page, THIS is my home! Here I will post pics and dialog for my family and friends to follow my engine build.

All pictures from my gallery have been deleted.

The rest of you guys can watch too!

Friday, March 11th, 2005. Two boxes of parts arrive from Gessford Machine, Hastings Nebraska. Thanks to George for working out the specs for my parts "long distance". The custom road race oil pan should ship soon.

My local machine shop choice was Snyder Machine Works in Waipahu, Oahu. It's CRITICAL to have a close relationship with your machinist. I tried several local machine shops before I found Snyders, and could not be happier with their work and helpful tips! Thanks Mark!

Camshaft, lifters, springs, retainers, seats, adjustment shims and stem seals. Crankshaft bearings for connecting rods and main bearing journals, custom Arias pistons, pins and rings, full gasket set, high volume oil pump (VOLUME not pressure), oil pump\distributor drive shaft, and oil pan "stud" bolt set. Double roller timing chain and gears, crank gear adjustable for timing Advance or Retard in 2 Deg increments, and misc "stuff".

First step of a long journey:
I checked the pistons for fit in the cylinder bore, looks good, .0035 specified clearance. BIG money for the pistons and NO return if I measured wrong, WHEW, they fit! The new ones are 9.75 to 1 compression ratio, down from the original 12.5 to 1. NOW I will be able to run "pump gas" instead of "racing gas".

I began the initial ball park "dry assembly" of the engine to check clearances and valve train geometry. Crank in the block first, then attach "a" rod to "a" piston and insert in block. Looking first for where the piston stops in relation to the top of the block ("piston deck height"). Looks good, I did NOT put any rings on the piston at this point. I installed #1 and #8 pistons.

Camshaft installed, timing gears on that, and lifters in their bore. I then put some modeling clay on the top of the pistons, head gasket and head, bolted down to specs. Some pushrods and the rocker arm shaft assembly per head. Set valve's to .022 clearance. Install the harmonic balancer on the engine crank front and rotate engine by hand for several revolutions. The valves opened and left their "mark" embedded in the clay. This is how I measured "valve to piston" clearance, which looked fine on the tear down. Alas, I discovered the push rods are now to short with the new flat tappet cam. I used to have a "roller" cam and the lifters were slightly taller then. I will have to order new custom push rods, bummer!

Tear down, clean up and put all the parts back in their boxes. Got to have just the right "mood" and "time" to begin final assembly! Large plastic bag to wrap up the motor and keep dust and debris out.