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Not that I know of Patrick. I really don't even think there's any difference between the steel wheels. The cheap ones just come in uglier boxes.
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Have any of you used the "Fidanza" flywheel ?
Many of the tuner people are using it. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku |
See post #2 of this thread.
I'm using one, as well as a couple others I know. One of which does a lot of drag racing. I havn't driven it that much yet, but no problems so far. Had my machine shop check and match the balance to my old flywheel which was "0" balanced and it was perfect. Once mounted I checked run-out and that was .006" total. Max allowable by the books is .017" |
Sorry,..... I did not see your post, now I do. :o
Thanks. :) |
This one is a much better deal. They are on Ebay all the time for this price and are just as good as the expensive ones and I believe a little lighter.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FIDAN...spagenameZWDVW |
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Ask about weight, not material
The question you should be asking is "how heavy is your flywheel?" when comparing them versus each other. They are not all the same weight. There are lightweight steel flywheels that approach the weight of an aluminum one. Single disc, multi-disc, etc. Ask about the weight.
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Another Question to Ask
My overpriced CF flywheel touts itself as having "a replaceable steel friction surface that has been heat-treated for abrasion resistance and long life." Not that I need it yet, but neither their web site nor their new, and lengthy, 2009 catalog lists that part. I have a feeling that the cost of that part is greater than a new Fidanza flywheel....
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I think you need to try one of the McLeod RST twin disc setups Patrick....
You'd be a good guinea pig. $685 and it's all yours. ;) |
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I'd rather have too much clutch than not enough though....just in case you decide to go to the strip and run drag radials.
A lot of my customers are the "....I have 600 horsepower and I want a clutch that will hold it, but I want it to drive like a Honda...." It's very challenging for me to pick the right combination of pressure plate and clutch disc. I never order "clutch kits" but always hand pick each component. If you pay attention to the disc material, you can minimize chatter. The organic clutches will be pretty docile. The Kevlar discs will probably chatter when they get hot. The aluminum or bronze pad discs might chatter, but there's a less chance than with the Kevlar. |
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Let's see if this works... http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xchg...on%3Dsearch%7C |
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http://www.type2.com/library/chemicals/loctite.htm |
Yellow Loctite
Here's a guy over on the pelicanparts forum fighting the yellow Loctite.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=406038 http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1209225474.jpg |
The stuff he had was more of an amber-ish color. Looked like honey.
The removal process was high heat and impact tools. (not or like red) Probably some stuff NASA needed... Lot of people think you need the high strength stuff, but lack of prep is the big problem with loctite not holding. |
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I have some of the yellow stuff, it was given to me by a NASA engineer here in Houston. It is waaaaaay beyond "medium." Let's just say we have bicycles and skateboards with bolts and nuts a mushroom cloud can't loosen. I would NOT put it on anything I ever wanted to get apart. |
I also forgot to mention, if it's an coated bolt buff the threads with a wire wheel so the threads are bare metal. Loctite loses some bond strength against the usual bolt coatings like black oxide and zinc.
You know it's funny my experiance with the yellow stuff was almost 20 years ago. Strange how some things just stick with you. :LOL: |
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