Aluminum Flywheel
 

What do you think about using a aluminum flywheel on a health 428? what are the advantages and disadvantages? Jon

Just bought one myself Jon.
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-cobra-talk/95072-aluminum-flywheel-vs-steel-clutch.html
Got it here for $250 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3612&viewitem=

It's a trade off
 

saltshaker Jon it's a trade off about physics. It's about stored energy and about the trade off of how fast you want the engine to spin up up. I stared with a 40 lb flywheel which is great for burnout and cruising a slow speeds. For racing you want the lightest and smallest setup you can get. You know that the rotating assembly,"flywheel, crank, rods, pistons, rings, spacer, and crank dampener ALL need to be together for the correct balancing of the motor. I am now running a 22 lb flywheel. The motor respond quicker with have less weight to spin up. It's ALL about APPLICATION of what you are going to do with the car. You can run an aluminum flywheel on the street without any problems. There is a metal ring attached either with rivets or bolts that can make it rebuildable. It's about matching up, the motor max output, weight of the car, and driviablity you are looking for. Most BB cobra run 11" or 11.5" stock or 1 step above stock clutches. They will last for years under normal driving and even a little showing off. After this you are looking at more expensive single purpose setups. Road racers use multi 6-8" disc clutches for racing. For big HP and torque on the street and have a lite clutch pedal you may want to look at a Street twim disc setup from Mcleod. What trans and motor are you looking to run?? What bellhousing are you looking at. There is alot more to this that just weight of the flywheel. Hope this helps a little. Rick L.

Jon,

An aluminum flywheel will be slightly more difficult to drive smoothly on the street. If your applications is mostly street driving and a few HPDE events I would stay with a steel flywheel. I recently switched to a 7.25" multi-disc clutch and button flywheel. The total weight of the clutch, flywheel and ring gear is 17.4lbs it is very difficult to start out with the light clutch and flywheel. Its like driving with a toggle switch for a clutch. Since my car is strickly a track car this is fine for me. Make your determination based on what your application is, the few hp that you are going to get back by going with a light weight flywheel in my opinion is not worth it for a street driven car...Just my opinion...Mac

On a lightweight car such as a Cobra, I would encourage it.

The only downside is the expense up front. Otherwise, you have less weight hanging off the back of the crank and it lets the engine rev more freely.

I had one on my Cobra with a 428 and it liked it just fine.

If you're looking for a good brand flywheel, shoot me an email. I sell RAM and McLeod. The RAM wheels are a little less expensive.

I have not installed my alum flywheel yet. Got ARP bolts for it. Are any washers required to prevent digging into the aluminum?

I think ARP says no washers.
Bill Stradtner

I would lubricate the threads and under the cap especially without a washer.

Yep no washers. Locetite green on the threads. No oil, in fact rinse everything down with carb cleaner so the loctite actually works. Loctite red is way too miserable to get loose down the road.

Seems a little nuts but the flywheel bolts have an ovesized head and the aluminum is tougher than you'd think.

If I remember correctly Joe told me they use loctite blue on theirs with no problems.

When I attached the aluminum flywheel I did not want the heads of the bolts (ARP) baring down on the bare aluminum. I obtained the metal ring that is used with a flexplate in and Automatic trans application, it's a pretty common piece. It has the 6 holes in a ring the diameter of the crank flange, and distributes the clamping force a little more evenly IMO. It is made of a semi hardened material. Red Loctite all the way. No regrets.

Ronbo...The Green Loctite is for small diameter fasteners to be "Wicked" into the threads after assembly. It's not a high strength thread locker.

Huh, I didn't even know there was such a thing as "Green Loctite." This just might be the first post where I actually learned something from this forum:rolleyes:.:D

I have been running an aluminium flywheel for about 6 years and I have no complaints. Take off's on the street are predictable and then when we do get on the track it spins up as you would want it to. I recommend it but as Brent said the $400 - $500 is the initial kicker.

Clois

I would agree with blykin , it was the right thing to do on my 428 . It spools up quick and I,m using a Center Force Clutch and I could not ask it to work any better.

My feelings exactly. I have the Centerforce aluminum flywheel, clutch & PP. I have no idea why the aluminum flywheel costs $750. The ones that cost half that much are undoubtedly just as good. It was probably just a waste of money.%/

Ouch. For just the flywheel?

Yes, and I just double checked the Centerforce site thirty seconds ago. $749.50 for the 427 (because my 428 is internally balanced) flywheel. I can't think of any reason they charge that kind of money for a flywheel unless they figure that the purchaser has more money than brains.


EDIT -- I did get a cool Centerforce sticker with it though.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku
The equivilent McLeod is $489.

Clearly the McLeod option is for people with more brains....;) If I was building my FE today, that's what I'd go with.

EDIT -- Wait a minute, does it come with a sticker?

OK, shameless plug here....

I sell RAM's aluminum flywheel (SFI rated) for $440. It's internally balanced.

I can also get those for you 428 guys at the same price. And I can get stickers.

Aside from a pound or two here and there, is there any real difference in the quality of the various aluminum flywheels for the FE?