Verdict on Mini Starters

[ERA Chas]

Doing a clutch r & r and decided to install the mini starter I've had on the shelf for some time. The 25 year old OEM rebuilt I've used all this time is still perfectly good and there's no good reason to change. Never heat shielded and never bothered by that.

But I do have the mini starter which weighs 8 lbs to the OEM's 16 and it's also prettier I know this will bite me in the a$$ but in it's going.

Would appreciate any comments from FE users about performance, longevity and reliability. MY SO is 427 inches and 10.4 compression. The starter is an IMI Performance Hi-Torque.

[xracerbob]

I have the RobbMc starter and its awesome. Even though I've only driven on my driveway, there have been plenty of startups and it works great. As you say, nothing really wrong with the larger, less expensive old technology, but for more space, less weight and much greater torque if you need it, these little ones are the way to go IMHO.

http://www.robbmcperformance.com/pro...t_starter.html

[ERA Chas]

Great feedback thanks Bob. Looks like we both have Swain Coatings on head pipes in common! Great minds??

Please keep 'em coming guys.

[Rick Parker]

They also draw considerably less current and allow the use of smaller gauge wire.

[fkemmerer]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Doing a clutch r & r and decided to install the mini starter I've had on the shelf for some time. The 25 year old OEM rebuilt I've used all this time is still perfectly good and there's no good reason to change. Never heat shielded and never bothered by that.

But I do have the mini starter which weighs 8 lbs to the OEM's 16 and it's also prettier I know this will bite me in the a$$ but in it's going.

Would appreciate any comments from FE users about performance, longevity and reliability. MY SO is 427 inches and 10.4 compression. The starter is an IMI Performance Hi-Torque.

Chas,

I've used a couple of mini starters on street machines and my cobra and I've had great luck with them. Smaller, lighter, less current, more torque and adjustable to solve problems associated with aftermarket bellhousings, headers, etc.

- Fred

[427 S/O]

I like mine, going on 4 years and even use it to drive up on ramps, with ign. off and in first gear.

[Don]

" RobbMc starter and its awesome "

I use the above starter on my AMX, an excellent choice

[Randy Rosenberg]

Last September I replaced my 9+ year old OEM style with a very generic hi-torque starter from http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/ . I called them to confirm the part number I needed, then I went to their ebay store http://stores.ebay.com/DB-Electrical...rs-Alternators and paid $49.95 + $15.00 shipping (yes, $64.95 delivered, no core charge). I got the recommendation from the gang over at 460ford.com.

So far - so good! Works like a champ!

[ERA Chas]

Yes all good points mentioned. I like the fact that I could 'clock' the motor to free the access to the mounting bolts. Plus installing on your back on jackstands-it's tons lighter! Randy, sounds like you scored a great deal-I think I should hang out some more over at the 460 guys.

Only thing I'm a little leery about is the 2 bolt flange on the mini. My scattershield is a 3 bolt mount as was my OEM starter. Only have 2, 5/16 - 18 bolts to hang now. Any body see a problem with that?

As always your input greatly appreciated.

[undy]

I finally went with a mini-starter on my 482 after two separate "OEM" starters couldn't do the trick. 3 1/2 years on the mini and it's never failed to crank.

[RICK LAKE]

ERA Chas I have run a tilton starter for 10 years. I have had a problem with the alignment of the stater gear and flywheel. The starter drive I replaced in 1/2 hour and works fine. I would still run heavy starter wire down to the starter even though the ampage drain is alot less. Old starters anywhere for 150-250 amp draw and a spike of 350-500 amps. The minis are 100-150 and also crank your motor over at a lower rpm. If everything is setup right with choke and timing it will fire right up. You can't go wrong with a mini, Just make sure you have the correct gear clearance of .035" when the starter gear is engaged. If your starter has 3 bolts and you can only reach 2, try a short stud for the 3rd one and nut it wih a nyloc nut. Good luck Rick L.

[Don]

From a recent Ford Racing e-mail product update:

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...KeyField=10546

[ERA Chas]

Thanks guys for the tips, links and info.
Just got to the point of a mock-up installation and am ready to test in a day or so. The trans and clutch are out and the flywheel has been resurfaced and I only need to torque the bolts. I bolted the block plate on and bolted the starter to it. Without the s'shield, it's easy to see and alignment looks good. Will hit the key soon. See here:

[RICK LAKE]

ERA Chas You want to try and get a .035" air gap between the gear of the starter bendix and the base betwen 2 teeth on the flywheel. A paperclip works great for this. Just hit the solenoid to engage without the starter motor to check this gap. Adjust from there. Rick L.

[ERA Chas]

Rick,
I got ya about the .035 gap and it's location-will check that. But 2 questions:
I don't quite follow when you say "...hit the solenoid... without the starter motor..." It's all wired and grounded and my plan was to hit the key and turn the big wheel.(Assuming there's no gear clash) I think I have a good relationship pinion to ring gear as seen in the pic.
Are you saying I can just extend the pinion without the motor turning it also? Please clarify how.
Also I don't think I can adjust that gap if it's wrong because the starter has a circular flange which fits into the block plate perfectly. I think this gap is factory set.
Thanks again for the tips. Got my paperclip ready...

[RICK LAKE]

ERA Chas Chas some starters have adjustments that you can move the drives in or out. My Tilton has 2 types of shims. Ones for the housings and some for the drive engagement of the bendix. Some starters are preset and have no adjustments and you just hope than they are centered on the block and give a good contact pattern from the gears. You can unhook the soleiniod from the motor on my starter. If there is a heavy wire or metal plate coming from the starter motor you can do the same with a little work. You can then turn the key and only the solenoid will engage the starter drive without cranking the motor over. The other way is on some staters you can get a set of needle nose pliers and pull out the drive without turning the key at all. This will also work for check the bendix drive air gap. If your bellhousing is centered on the block, the starter should be in the ball park. My Lakewood bell was .038" out and this killed my first starter drive. It was too tight and jammed the bendix and could not fully engage and sometimes on release. Don't go crazy over it. As long as it's in the ball park you should be fine. Rick L. Ps add the third bolt to the starter. It will rock over time and loosen the other 2 bolts. It will also angle the drive outward when cranking the motor if the gears have a wide air gap and the engagement is only 1/4 of the teeth being used. This could also break the teeth on the flywheel ring over time.

[ERA Chas]

Success!

To address Rick's concerns: the starter (IMI) does not break-down as your Tilton does so could not just activate the solenoid. I did however pull the pinion forward into engagement with slip-joint pliers and found my .045" paper clip fit comfortably. Also about 3/4 of the pinion tooth engaged the ring gear.

In the spirit of 'WTF', I hit the key and it was beautiful. No noise or bind and complete release when I let the key go. It does turn the motor more slowly than the OEM did but it's very steady and appears strong. Mine always went off on the first hit of the key anyway.

The starter only weighs 8 pounds and clears headers and block by miles.
Many thanks for all advice and Rick's help is greatly appreciated.

Now to get that Toploader lump back in...