427 FE + Turkey Pan question......

[LuvDaBlues]

I'm having a bit of a hesitation when aggressively accelerating. But only after the engine has fully warmed up. I had a pro build the carburetor earlier, and he thought the fuel might be boiling within the front bowl. He suggested a carburator heat shield, but I can't find an attractive one.

Has anyone used a turkey pan for this problem? I would think it would provide enough shielding.

[undy]

Originally Posted by LuvDaBlues

I'm having a bit of a hesitation when aggressively accelerating. But only after the engine has fully warmed up. I had a pro build the carburetor earlier, and he thought the fuel might be boiling within the front bowl. He suggested a carburator heat shield, but I can't find an attractive one.

Has anyone used a turkey pan for this problem? I would think it would provide enough shielding.

Yes it would help, assuming your problem is "boiling in the bowl" related. I think it may be something else. Typically fuel percolating in the bowl will result more so with problems at idle. The fuel will boil and overflow down into the engine through your bowl vents or directly into the carb venturies. This will cause stumble and stall at idle. It's because most under hood heat issues happen during idle or traveling very slow, especially in prolonged bumper-to-bumper traffic where engine heat has a chance to build under hood.

If you're having problems at WOT then I think it's a carb tuning problem, too rich ... or even too lean. Before striking out and buying a turkey pan, with it's typically restrictive air filter, invest 60 or 70 bucks. Do a 3 run pass on a local chassis dyno and have them monitor your AFR. That'll tell you if your carb's tuned right. I think you'll find to the contrary..

Dave

[LuvDaBlues]

Originally Posted by undy

I think it's a carb tuning problem, too rich ... or even too lean.

Dave

OK, but wouldn't this behave the same cold or hot?

[undy]

Originally Posted by LuvDaBlues

OK, but wouldn't this behave the same cold or hot?

Not necessarily, if you're running rich, a cold motor (colder air intake) will accept more fuel at WOT without it resulting in a rich hesitation. (More oxygen as well as more fuel going into the motor). I'm not intending to say that's your problem. All I'm saying is that you need to do a little more investigation before you start buying parts hoping that they fix your problem. The dyno monitoring AFR will tell the story.

Heck, your ignition system could be breaking down during high under hood temps. A strong spark is most important during agressive acceleration.


Do you really romp on a cold motor as hard as you do a hot one??

[xlr8or]

Could just be the secondary floats getting uncovered in the bowl... Are the floats set correctly?

[patrickt]

LuvDaBlues -- putting a TP on your engine is a bit of a nuisance. You've got to bolt it between the carb and the IM, make sure there are no leaks, get the linkage just right through the side of the pan, etc. You might first try just shielding your carb with some sheets of aluminum half-way fabricated around the carb along with some insulating foil. You don't have to do a great job on this as it's only a temporary test. If you get absolutely no benefit from this temporary fab-job then chances are a TP isn't going to help either.

[Ibr8k4vetts]

Try one of these http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294873482 worked great for me

[Ronbo]

This may sound dumb, how big is your air cleaner?

Another thing I've had experiance causing this is a coil dropping output after it gets hot. (mine was real bad, causing the carb to burp)

[LuvDaBlues]

Originally Posted by undy

Do you really romp on a cold motor as hard as you do a hot one??

Nope. I usually idle the car in the driveway for about 5 minutes before driving. I never did say I go WOT when first heading out. But it starts acting up when it's fully warmed (heated) up.

As for the air cleaner:


And as for the Summit heat shield, those look like spacers!

[RICK LAKE]

LuvDaBlues Steve How hot is the motor when this problem happens? I see you are running under drive pulleys with an aluminum motor. Do you have a temp gun for checking under the hood? Try this trick and see if the hesitation gets better, worse, or stays the same, open the back of the hook about 1"-2" Use rags to protect the paint and go for a ride. If the motor is the same problem and the temps are all OK, the next place to go is a dyno shop for A/F ratio check. If you want, you can buy a LM-1 meter for about $400.00 and need to weld a bung hole in the exhaust to check the ratios of A/F. This will point you in the correct direction to fix the problem. Also Check the cap and rotor for any carbon tracking or contact point being burnt in the center of the cap. Make sure the contact point is tight and you can't move it. Your coil may be breaking down internally from engine vibrations if it's an oil filled coil. I know the coil mounting location is correct but a bad idea for an eletronic part, heat and vibration. Rick L.

[ceslaw]

Finish Line sells a turkey basket.

I am also running a Genesis 427. I have run it both with the turkey basket and with the stock air cleaner as shown in your picture. No real difference in the way it runs, but the turkey basket looks cool.

If you have not already done so, I would check the float levels. The main float was running way to rich on mine and once properly adjusted made a noticeable difference.

One needs to do a bit of trimming to make the turkey basket fit, but it will work.

Here is the link to Finish Line's page:

http://www.finishlineaccessories.com...37b897225efc9f

[bulletbrown]

LuvDaBlues, Kirkham sells a turkey basket that is able to be removed from the base plate witch makes it alot easier to work on the carb and linkage. I had the same air cleaner and I had to replace it with a K&M open top unit to get the air mixture right. Go luck.