I think they only line hone, not bore, so the difference should be easily taken up with the existing gasket.
As above, the rear cap is hard to seal. You need a bit of RTV not only only the chamfered edge of the cap, but also a bit from the chamfer, along the block mating surface, to the seal. Seals shold be put in with one side about 1/4" up, and hte other end 1/4" down. Don't use RTV on the seal ends as it is too easy to get into the seal lip and cause trouble.
Then there's those darn nails. Near the end of driving them in, they sometimes compress the rubber side seal a bit. Gotta fill it up with RTV and let it cure before putting on the
oil pan.
Oil Pan. I always use gasket shellac (stuff like molasses) on both sides of
oil pan gaskets.
All that said and done, you can have an oil leak in the front where the oil is driven back and winds up along the face of the bellhousing cover plate by air motion as you drive. Front oil leaks can be from the front seal, dipstick tube and oil pressure sending unit fitting.
Improper crankcase venting can easily cause oil to burble up around the distributor, drain down and be swept back to the rear of the engine by air-flow. This is especially common with some non-Ford distributors where the groove for the dist tapered seal is cut too deep.
I am meticulous when I put together engines, and all I can say is all the FEs I did, all leaked some oil somewhere, and all of it looked like it was coming from the rear seal area.
I just live with it now.....LOL.
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