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Yes the 3/4" bolts work with a windage tray and additional gasket. Didn't realize you may not have one. Using washers (even splits) defeats the purpose because the serrated head will hold the bolt to the washer but allow the washer to relax against the pan.
It is best to shorten the bolts. Run them through a die to get clean threads and let them bite the pan directly. It's a PIA because there are 22 of them (I think) but with a sharp hacksaw blade or a cutoff wheel it's really worth doing. Don't forget to start a nut on the threads before you cut to length, then remove the nut to chase the thread a little. Measure the thread depth carefully so they don't bottom. Studs and Locktite won't work- did that for years. Just install 2 studs as guides for installing the pan. Put the studs away from the leaking area. |
Where did you get the bit?
Doug,
Keep at it and I'm sure you will get that broken bolt out. I was wondering where you found the cobalt tip universal bit. I have been trying to drill through some very hard stainless steel and have broken numerous cobalt bits. Quote:
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I think the longer bolts will be fine going into the timing cover and maybe the rear bolts too. the ones along the side will definitely need to be cut down. Compared to the above, a reciprocating saw with a hacksaw blade should make this fairly easy. |
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Brand is ARTU. I know they have them at ACE, but they don't have them at Home Depot (nor any other bits that work with a crap for this purpose). Funny because I at first dismissed ARTU because of the long list of "universal" applications they list on the package. Figured that meant that it wouldn't work well on a specific high intensity application like drilling steel. http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...Id=44124371604 |
Doug, Chas is right on the windage tray and two gaskets. They take up more room than you think. Here's a page of pics of the side of my block, but a lot of the pics show the width of the stuff between the oil pan and block. http://208.255.159.239/428block/index.html
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I think that's a good idea. I will probably order one today.
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Any specific windage tray you would recommend. I have a canton pan, if that matters.
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http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/...ion&key=20-938 EDIT -- Note that it includes studs and nuts. |
Does anyone know if I can get the pan on with the windage tray on a CSX car? It was a tight fit getting the pan off and clearing the rods since the frame cross member doesn't allow you to drop the pan much.
In fact to get it off I had to starter bump the engine to get the pistons toward the top of the stroke for the rear cylinders or it wouldn't clear. |
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Ok, I will give it a shot. If I can't get it to go, then I may need to add it later. I don't have a truck to go pick up the hoist, so prob couldn't do it easily/quickly. Needs to be done this weekend so I am ready for middleburg........
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dc,
Getting the tray is a fine idea. Just remember it will lower the pan by the thickness of it and the additional gasket. That means you should check the pump pickup to pan floor dimension to make sure you have the recommended .250" to .375" clearance and not more. |
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With that clearance, it seems unlikely I would have the right pick-up if I am adding a tray and additional gasket. What's the best way to measure that small of a clearance tolerance? If I need a longer pickup, how do I order the right one?
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If you don't know what the clearance is now, don't be sure, it may be OK. But you have to check. Check with Play-Doh or clay. Put a lump on the pick-up and attach the pan with four bolts to compress the Doh. Slice through the thickest part and measure. If you need a longer tube, you can call the pan mfgr (Canton or Milodon or whomever) and ask if they have another size pickup. If not, ask if they'll modify yours. Failing that contact Nick Acton (Mickmate on here) and Nick will fab anything you need or modify yours. If your motor is stroked, put the tray in place, rotate the motor by hand and be sure you have .060" minimum clearance for rotating parts. It IS worth the trouble to do this. |
Play-doh, now there's a unique application for it. What a great idea. I will do that. In case anyone knows the answer, I have a canton pan and am adding a canton windage tray sandwiched between two milodon pan gaskets. Engine is a 427 FE. Oil pump is melling if that matters.
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Good. Check the measurement first and if needed call Thor at Canton for pick up length alteration or Mickmate.
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