Sorry to correct you guys so late here, but you're both wrong. The SPF frame allows you to drop the pan straight down (at least with a SB). I"m pretty sure the same is true with the BB.
:)
-Dean

Ehhhrrggg, small blocks don't count. I'll await confirmation on the big block, though....:p

OK, here's the update on the pan-from-he!! project. Got the rest of the bolt out on Sat. :D Hole was pretty banged up, but cleaned up better than I thought when I ran a tap into to it. I used a tap guide, so I know it went in straight. Oh and tap sockets are a godsend in that tight space.

I decided to give the Permatex epoxy solution a shot first. It will fill any gaps on the sidewalls of the bolt hole and I still can go with the TimeSert if it doesn't work. I am a little nervous about the need to drill out a bigger hole for the TimeSert as I think Chas is right that the boss for this hole doesn't leave much margin for error.

So current status: Pan is back on the car, all of the bolts are in, but just snugged gently. My torque wrench seems to be acting up. It's one of the cheap "click" types and didn't seem to be functioning properly, so I ordered another one and will wait to torque the bolts until I get it mid-week. I don't want to over-torque anything. There is still a question as to whether that Permatex hole will hold the torque, but i will find out and can always do the TimeSert if I need to. I know my father has had good luck with that solution on manifold bolts.

Oh, I couldn't get the windage try to fit over the cross rail, under the rotating assembly and over the oil pick-up, so I am going to pass on it this time. I cut the serrated-head bolts from 3/4" down to 5/8" instead. I will admit to having limited patience with messing with the windage tray at this point - especially on such a beautiful day when I was under my car rather than driving it.

Anyway, hopefully I will be good to go for the Middleburg cruise this weekend. And hopefully leak free....

But I thought some of the bolts were "too long" without cutting them off or using the windage tray?

All of the pan bolts that I could get with serrated heads for this engine were 3/4" long. So I used two of those for the timing cover holes and cut the rest down to 5/8" long, so now they are standard length for a pan without windage tray. Is that what you mean?

Yes, that's what I meant. I think you'll be fine now. I only have mine torqued to 10 ft/lbs. That's hardly anything -- bubble gum will hold 10 ft/lbs.:LOL:

I'll let you know. I hope that's the end of this thread....on to tinkering with other things...

So, the pan is back on the car, a bead of gray motorcraft silicon on both sides of the gasket, all serrated-head bolts (cut down to 5/8" from 3/4") torqued to 10 lbs and the repaired hole is holding the torque fine. I filled it with oil and took it for a quick drive today and so far so good on leaks. I will drive it a bit more this week and hopefully this is the end of leaks.

Thanks for all of your help and suggestions over the past 9 pages :eek: of this thread.

Dare I say it? I am three days oil leak free! Remote filter adaptor block was the culprit. I was able to tighten it a bit better on a friend's lift this weekend.

Just in time to change to a RR pan.....:LOL:

Similar situation with my 482, thought it was a rear main seal and it turned out to be a leaking fuel pump block-off plate. For two years I wrote it off as being a "typical" dripping FE. Dare I tempt fate, I'm pretty much leak free now.

Might even be worth degreasing and cleaning my garage flooring now.:LOL:

glad to hear its done
 

I like the lok of your car, and that last what 9 pages of threads was a nail biter.

May have been painful to read, but was WAY more of a PITA to do. %/