Running fuel line from tank to engine

[Wisconsin_Snake]

I am installing a 1995 5.0 HO fuel injected motor in the car.
I need help on what to use for running fuel line.
Can I use brake line (with fittings to connect the pieces together)? Or does it need to be a 1 piece? Not even sure how I would make all the turns if it needs to be one piece.

What about just using FI rated hose all the way and running it although I am not sure about the safest way to route it from the engine to the back of the car.

Thanks.

[bobcowan]

You have a number of good choices, depending on what your goals are.

IMO, one of your worst choices would be rubber fuel line. That's too long of a run for rubber line.

You cannot use brake line, as it is only 3/16" - way too small to feed anything bigger than a lawn mower - a small lawn mower.

The easiest is to use steel braided AN fittings and hoses. Also the most expensive, and probably the heaviest.

3/8" steel tubing from any parts store is cheap. It usually comes in 4' lengths, with pre-flared ends.

A lot of the newer cars are using a plastic hose. That's looking like a pretty good option for a stock car. Inexpensive, easy, durable, and light weight.

[Dwight]

I bought 3/8" steel line at the local part store in different lengths.
Make you bends with the least amount of degrees. A straight line would be perfect but you will have some bends. Use 45's not 90's, 30's instead of 45's. Long sweeping bends not sharp ones. Make sure the rubber hose you install is ethanol rated.

Make sure your fuel fitler has a 3/8" inlet and out.

Last fall I install a 5/16" inlet on a 3/8" fuel line. Took the Cobra with a 525 Hp motor for a test drive. It would starve out in the upper rpm range. Stopped at a part store and ask if he had a large filter with a 3/8" in and out. Back to the shop install new filter and problem gone.

Moral of the story: everything in the fuel line system can be a restriction.

if you have a motor that puts out 250 hp then the fuel line is not a critical as a 500 horse motor.

And three fuel filter will starve a motor out in the upper rpm range. Fuel filters are restrictive. Some more than others.

Lessons learned the hard way
there are automotive calculator to help determine fuel line size using the hp of the motor. 3/8" line will support 500 hp.


Dwight

[tirod]

If you go with A/N line, double check it's ethanol rated - which should drive the price up another 25%. That will resist the 5/10% blends we use today. Standard A/N is 30R7 rated for 1960's gasoline and obsolete in that application.

For the cost vs performance, 3/8" SAE 45* flared tubing is the best. It's naturally ethanol resistant, it can be easily formed, and clamped down with simple metal clips. You can find it at any parts store. A/N isn't.

I believe the "standard" Chevy EFI fuel filter has 45* degree flare nuts each end. Needs to be checked to verify - but - is it really necessary? Dodge uses a big pleated filter instead of a pump sock, and eliminated one in the line completely. If your pump sock micron mesh filters particles smaller than the injector orifice, its going to pass thru, just like in a carburetor. I never rebuilt a carb that didn't have junk in the float bowl. I think more of it comes from rusty steel tanks in the car than in the ground - the latter were outlawed decades ago.

[stallion112]

If you install a filter on the inlet side to the pump make sure it is 100 microns. A typical fuel filter is either 10 or 35 microns (intended for placement after the pump on the pressure side) and they are way too restrictive for the inlet side. The restriction can cause a vacuum to form just after the filter, especially on a hot day. You may then find yourself under the car removing the fuel line to purge the air pocket. Been there.

[Wisconsin_Snake]

Looking to stay away from the AN route as that is much more $$$ money than what I want to spend. (Still need to buy a fair amount of other stuff to finish this car).

Did not realize that running plastic/nylon tubing was a option now.
I am going to look into that/ How flexible is the stuff?
Will I want to run it against the frame rail then transition it to rubber FI hose where it leaves the frame rail to go to the engine? or is it safe enough to make the jump to the engine?
Also does it need configured to be not touching anything except for the clamps that clamp it down unlike steel hose it can touch the frame as long as there is not allot of rubbing going on?

[mpanten]

Originally Posted by Wisconsin_Snake

Looking to stay away from the AN route as that is much more $$$ money than what I want to spend. (Still need to buy a fair amount of other stuff to finish this car).

I know they are more expensive but there are two places you dont want to cheap out. Brakes and fuel delivery. You can order a kit from summit and do it fairly reasonably. Kuhl tools make a tool make the job really easy. If I can do it any one can.

[Wisconsin_Snake]

Question for you guys, are you using Factory fuel rails? If so what hose line are you running...
The Spring lock connectors that I have (OEM) are designed for 3/8 Nylon hose which means the inner diameter of the hose is .275. So if I try to connect a 5/16 rubber hose to it, it's loose on the barbs..

Are the SpringLock connectors you are using do teh barbs fit 3/8 rubber fuel injection hose?