Help - going on my 3rd Flywheel :(

[Kramer]

Thought I would update everyone on my progress now that I finally had some time to work on my car. I don't know how everyone makes it seem easy but getting that transmission out was pain in the put (not looking forward to getting in back in). I was able to get everything apart today. When I pulled off the Lakewood Bellhousing, the missing teeth fell out....( I counted 14 missing in total). Everything else looked good though. (FWIW it was a aluminum flywheel)...184 tooth count.

I am going to get a new one(think I might just do steel this time) and follow the specific procedures for aligning the bellhousing per a conversation with Rick L. I was also able to look at the starter....pushing out the small teeth on the starter it looks as if it is was engaging somewhere between 2/3 and 3/4 into the ring gear). I am really thinking the Bellhousing alignment may be the issue but we will see soon.

If anyone has any thoughts or parts recommendations for a flywheel, let me know.

Thanks

[SSSammy]

Tom, I used the Kirkham FAQ for all my BH/FW/Clutch parts. See:
KMS FAQ

The Mcleod 563210 has billet alum body, with steel friction surface (rebuildable) and steel 184 tooth starter ring:
McLeod Racing - Aluminum Flywheels

Your pinion engagement of 2/3 to 3/4 ought to be enough if you are using the correct starter for the 184 tooth FW. I use the Tilton 54-20013 Severe Duty Super Starter. I can't say how many teeth it has, as it is not possible to see the pinion with it in the car. Do not use the supplied shim between the face plate of the starter and the starter body. If you don't use this Tilton, then make sure you use a starter for the FE and not the FT or 429/460 motor. They have different FW sizes and tooth counts.

Sam

[RICK LAKE]

Krammer did you cut out the part of the motor plate where the starter goes? Make sure that the surface where the starter goes is flat. This will give you about 80% coverage of teeth to teeth on flywheel and starter. THis is what I have been running for the last couple of years and no wear problem any more.
As for the car cranking, was the distributor removed from the motor at any time?? It is possible you are 1 tooth off and having this problem. The timing light trick will work if the motor is spinning over fast enough. Cut the fuel system off and remove spark plugs. Unhook all the injectors and have timing light hooked to #1 wire. THis will let you crank over the motor at a quicker speed. Check your timing. If it comes up OK we have a software problem and need to check the base timing chart. You might at this point fine an FI guy and dyno shop and have the car checked out. ON some FI systems you have retard or advance the timing on cranbking to help the motor to start easier. IF you are snapping flywheel bolts and teeth on the flywheel we need to check the crankshaft end play. There may be a machine problem and causing the crank to no stay centered in the block and has worn out one side of the thrust bearing or the other. end play should be about .005" to .015" max. Anything more than this, pull the oil pan and do a vision check and look for metal in the pan.
This may help get trans out of car easier, jack up back of motor to clear trans mount and easy twist to remove it. If you have the room a engine crane will handle the weight. Sorry have no easy way to install it. I do it the bull way, by hand. This is also my regular job of tranny R&R. Rick L. Lets stay with the clutch setup you have right now and see if we have another problem first. If you have the flywheel off again, cut a couple of threads of the end to make sure there is no contact with block.